1992 Accord LX cold start problems

[H Harper]

92 Accord LX...last year, it was hard to start on cold days, but would start. This year, first cold snap (40 degrees) wouldn't start at all. Took it to my mechanic. He said it was most likely a relay switch under the dash. Here's the chronology:

He changed out the switch. After about 20 minutes of driving, the check engine light came on. When that happened, whenever I pulled up to a stop light, the idle dropped to about 500 to 600 rpms and the engine would die. I drove the car for about a week with these problems by keeping one foot on the gas and one on the brake. I noticed the following:

At times, the check engine light would not come on when I started the car. When this would happen, the car would run fine, and would not go dead at stops. When the check engine light would come back on a few minutes later, the previous symptoms would return.

When the check engine light was off and I started the car, it would always start even in cool or cold weather, but I noticed I had to pump the accelerator to get it to start, where previously, if I pumped the accelerator, I’d flood the thing and have to wait until the gas evaporated before it would start.

When the temperature drops to 40 or below, the starter will turn the engine, but there's no fire, so it never starts. Now the check engine light is on, and stays on.

One final piece of the puzzle...all this "check engine light" stuff started after I forgot to put the gas cap back on and drove it for a week before realizing the cap was gone. This may or may not be related to the starting problem.
Any ideas as to what the starting problem is?

[mpumas]

The check engine light should come for a couple of seconds as soon as you turn the key to start the engine and then go out. If it does that, then the ECU is probably operating normally. If it stays on or comes on later, the ECU has detected a sensor problem and the stored code needs to be determined. When the CEL is on, the engine is operating in "limp" mode and will not be working very well. Reset the ECU by removing the 7.5 A radio fuse. Then read the code if the CEL comes on again.

[H Harper]

If the CEL comes on again...will it flash a code?

I ran the car today. CEL light came on when I cranked it, so I pumped the accelerator until it started. Thereafter, it went dead at each stop. When I drove into the driveway....the CEL was off. I don't know how long it had been off.

Originally Posted by mpumas

The check engine light should come for a couple of seconds as soon as you turn the key to start the engine and then go out. If it does that, then the ECU is probably operating normally. If it stays on or comes on later, the ECU has detected a sensor problem and the stored code needs to be determined. When the CEL is on, the engine is operating in "limp" mode and will not be working very well. Reset the ECU by removing the 7.5 A radio fuse. Then read the code if the CEL comes on again.

[H Harper]

Ya know...there is one other thing that could be related to all this that I hadn't thought of until now. About a year ago, the car started refusing to shift into high gear. It turned out to be a computer that sits under the front right upper floor. I ordered and replaced the part, and the car has shifted just fine ever since. I was told the old unit had been built by the factory with less than required capacitors. The new unit had higher capacitors. The current starting problem, however, started about a year later, so I doubt it's related.

Originally Posted by mpumas

The check engine light should come for a couple of seconds as soon as you turn the key to start the engine and then go out. If it does that, then the ECU is probably operating normally. If it stays on or comes on later, the ECU has detected a sensor problem and the stored code needs to be determined. When the CEL is on, the engine is operating in "limp" mode and will not be working very well. Reset the ECU by removing the 7.5 A radio fuse. Then read the code if the CEL comes on again.

[jeffcoslacker]

This car is fuel injected, yes?

If so, having to pump the pedal is your first clue...you should never have to do that with FI. If you do, you are manually overcoming an extreme lean cold start mixture, which would point to a problem with the ICAV or intake air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, something along those lines.

Or possible you are sucking massive amounts of air someplace it shouldn't be....

If you have a carb (I don't think so) then the same applies, only things like loose throttle plate to main body, loose carb mounting, automatic choke or mixture control solenoid fault, etc..

[H Harper]

Is there an air-intake temp sensor in my car?

Originally Posted by jeffcoslacker

This car is fuel injected, yes?

If so, having to pump the pedal is your first clue...you should never have to do that with FI. If you do, you are manually overcoming an extreme lean cold start mixture, which would point to a problem with the ICAV or intake air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, something along those lines.

Or possible you are sucking massive amounts of air someplace it shouldn't be....

If you have a carb (I don't think so) then the same applies, only things like loose throttle plate to main body, loose carb mounting, automatic choke or mixture control solenoid fault, etc..

[jeffcoslacker]

I'm not sure. I'd think there has to be something like it.

Is yours one of the early PGM-FI motors?

An EGR valve that sticks partially open will produce a huge vacuum leak too.

Best thing would be to retrieve that code(s) from when the CEL comes on and it starts running bad...that'll give you something to start with. Right now we are just guessing and it could be any of about 50 different things.

The code will reveal what's malfunctioning, or it least provide some clue as to what is happening during the fault..

[H Harper]

Is that the code you get by shorting the wire at the right front kick panel? If so, which light is supposed to flash?

I don't know if mine is one of the early motors or not. How to tell?

Thanks,

HH
================

Originally Posted by jeffcoslacker

I'm not sure. I'd think there has to be something like it.

Is yours one of the early PGM-FI motors?

An EGR valve that sticks partially open will produce a huge vacuum leak too.

Best thing would be to retrieve that code(s) from when the CEL comes on and it starts running bad...that'll give you something to start with. Right now we are just guessing and it could be any of about 50 different things.

The code will reveal what's malfunctioning, or it least provide some clue as to what is happening during the fault..

[jeffcoslacker]

It will say "PGM-FI" on the top of the motor.

I was just curious what generation of fuel injection it was...