How to prepare metal parts for priming.

[TurboGuru]

Hi all

I've recently purchased some reskin multimedia kits and have a few questions about the metal prices (exhausts, alloy wheels etc).

Is there anything I should do with the metal parts before applying primer? .... the metal parts feel really smooth and almost like they have been coated in a powder although I can see no residue on my hands.

I'm guessing its always a good idea to wash the parts anyway, but is there anything else you would recommend doing before I start applying primer?

1 kit is made by BBR and the other is by Studio27 ... both metal parts feel the same (coated in something?).

I'm guessing I will have to put them in a bowl and clean them, any ideas on what solution I should use?

Thanks (pic below).

[TurboGuru]

ok, an update... seems as though the packaging is strange in the studio 27 box.... instructions were buried between the decal sheets, I only open decal bags as and when I need them, its a good job I checked.

The etching parts were right under the box (the divider).... how did they get there?

Anwyays, on the instructions it recommends using a wirebrush for the metal parts so I guess I'll have to buy one. - Also the metal is referred to as White Steel?

[360spider]

Just use fine sanding boards, and then spray some self-etching metal primer, followed by regular primer, then paint.

[TurboGuru]

Thank you

Seems like this is what I need:

http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=3145

[pedrop]

Usually just clean with laquer thinner.
If you go through a lot of metal parts and are looking for high vloume way - try a vibratory tumbler. Can get them from Harbor freight cheap or a gun reloading supply mailorder. Works realy well, just becareful you dont lose any parts !

[TurboGuru]

Originally Posted by pedrop

Usually just clean with laquer thinner.
If you go through a lot of metal parts and are looking for high vloume way - try a vibratory tumbler. Can get them from Harbor freight cheap or a gun reloading supply mailorder. Works realy well, just becareful you dont lose any parts !

Pedrop, I have had my eyes on one of these:



Its an ultrasonic cleaner, so your saying they 'really' do work? I might consider one.

[koksik]

I think if You use a basic grey primer from Zero Paint's will be ok.
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=1050
That's automotive primer so keep good on plastic and metal and resin ( I make test on my 350z veilside resin transkit )

[TurboGuru]

Originally Posted by koksik

I think if You use a basic grey primer from Zero Paint's will be ok.
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=1050
That's automotive primer so keep good on plastic and metal and resin ( I make test on my 350z veilside resin transkit )

Hey, yeah I already have that.....

My plan was to use the etching primer first, and then use zero normal primer on top.... Not sure if the normal primer would adhere to a metal surface properly.... hence the need for etching primer?

[koksik]

For me this normal primer should be good. Try spray this primer, wait a few minutes and stick masking tape and remove. If primer go out with tae, that mean You must use a metal primer.

[MidMazar]

The regular primer will work, even though i would go with the metal primer (which is actually clear). One thing i can mention is to really sand the metal parts before spraying so the primer has something to ahere to.

Thats one problem i had with metal parts, when i handled them the paint chips easily. So sanding/scoring the metal before primer is a must.

[TurboGuru]

Originally Posted by MidMazar

The regular primer will work, even though i would go with the metal primer (which is actually clear). One thing i can mention is to really sand the metal parts before spraying so the primer has something to ahere to.

Thats one problem i had with metal parts, when i handled them the paint chips easily. So sanding/scoring the metal before primer is a must.

I have a dremel tool with a wire brush accessory, I think this will work well for sanding/smoothing the metal right?



Also... the metal parts already feel silky smooth... like they are covered in something... any ideas what substance/powder this is?

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by TurboGuru

Also... the metal parts already feel silky smooth... like they are covered in something... any ideas what substance/powder this is?

I guess that's probably talcum powder.

Molds are often dusted with this prior to casting. It breaks surface tension and increases the flow of the casting material to allow it to flow better and faster into all areas of the mold.

[CrateCruncher]

White metal is really soft so if you haven't much experience go easy with the power tools and abrasives until you get a feel for it. Sanding and polishing removes a lot more material than you might realize. Once the detail is gone, it's gone. I often reduce slightly overscale parts by polishing them down to scale by removing material.

WM is so soft that you'll likely have at least one piece thats bent out of shape. Warm it up with your fingers and bend SLOW, a little bit at a time. If it cracks you can drill oversized holes and epoxy it together with a piece of wire.

I usually rely on one of three methods for preparing the metal surface: wet sanding with 600, hand brushing with a soft brass toothbrush, or 0000 steel wool. The one I use depends on the surface roughness I want. Of the three I use the wool 75% of the time. It's also great for polishing if you plan to leave the metal natural.

I'm currently using the Tamiya Metal Primer in the rattle can. It dries clear and fast and improves adhesion considerably.