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| Tips and Maintenance Post helpful tips, maintenance guides and R&R procedures here (for both Pontiac Grand Prix and Oldsmobile Intrigue) |
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#1
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Crank Sensor - some other tactics
Here are just a few thought starters on how I changed my crank sensor in the 2000 GTP.
First, I currently have no access to air tools, this repair was done roadside...albeit in front of my house, I have no concrete slab or garage to work in. I was a little leery of using the starter motor to break the balancer bolt loose (as listed in the tips section), I could envision trashed starter and worse yet trashed flexplate. Plus that didn't solve the issue of how to retorque the bolt. So having to use hand tools, I needed some way to restrain the crankshaft to oppose the bolt torque whilst loosening and tightening the balancer bolt. So I designed the tool made from scrap steel, 4-1/2" OD x 2" thru hole at center (cut with holesaw). Drill 3pc x 5/16" dia thru holes on a 1-11/16" radius bolt circle, 120 degrees apart. Weld the handle, originally 6" long but later came out to be around 8" for bracing on the front cradle structure. The part is 1/2" thick but could easily have been 3/8" and still worked. I had to remove the oil filter, next tool might have a bend in the handle but I didn't worry too much. Bolts are the usual 1/4-28s and you need a couple lengths, in my case 2", 2-1/2" and 3". Grade 5s are fine I got them at Homme Dee. I bought a needle-thrust-bearing balancer puller & installer from Summit Racing, decent tool except for one flaw. First its shaft is also 3/4-16 so no adapters needed. Pulled the balancer quite easily. However the threaded shaft is not long enough to get it back together, I could have used a piece of 3/4-16 threaded rod, but alas none was available and so I substituted the original bolt. As far as the bolt itself, it is either 7/8" or 15/16" (forget already). I used a long-handle ratchet sticking up next to the accessory drive and a tubular cheater-pipe to get some extra leverage. The bolt was on good-n-tite and I tried to put it back that way too...again lack of proper tools leaves something to be desired on the original torque-plus-angle strategy. Having to do it over again I'd probably paint or scribe a witness mark before doing anything and attempt to exceed this slightly upon retorquing. All was well and I am back running again. Enjoy....C-H ![]() ![]() ![]()
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1988 Chevy R-30 1 ton DRW pickup (217k) 1991 Chevy S-10 4WD pickup (192k) 2000 Grand Prix GTP (218k) 2002 GMC Yukon (185k) 2009 G8 - GT (46k) |
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#2
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Re: Crank Sensor - some other tactics
An excellent way around a tough problem. This may help others who have the same issue to resolve the same issue. Thanks for the post!
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#3
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Re: Crank Sensor - some other tactics
Agreed! Nice idea and good concept. Maybe make one with different bolt positions for different applications? Can I buy one???
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-2000 Grand Prix GTP 170,000mi (daily driver) -2000 Olds Alero 100,000mi (soon to be DD with gas at $3.45/gal) -1997 Chev K1500 4x4 115,000mi (Natalie's truck [nans_grandprix]) AF "2.0" Community Guidelines Conservative Victory 2012!!! "I'll Keep my Guns, Freedom, and Money. You can Keep the Change!" ----->>>>> Did You Know? <<<<<----- |
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#4
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Re: Crank Sensor - some other tactics
Give me a couple months to get my shop built and I'll make up an extra part. Probably about 6 mos before I'm functional again but we are about to carve up the topsoil starting next week.
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1988 Chevy R-30 1 ton DRW pickup (217k) 1991 Chevy S-10 4WD pickup (192k) 2000 Grand Prix GTP (218k) 2002 GMC Yukon (185k) 2009 G8 - GT (46k) |
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