Need some help on recent issue.......

[Tinkerin_wit_tools]

To tell you all the truth, I am not sure what is wrong with my wife's SUV. It is a 99 Blazer 2wd. I always seem to hit a brick wall with it, because I got more of a feel for my own vehicle. Since I don't drive it much, and it has happened to me only twice, I will try my best to explain. About a month ago, you could hear her brakes squeal, so I was going to put aside some time to replace the pads and check them this weekend, which is what I did. Sometimes when you have the car stopped, then accelerate, it seems to have some sort of hesitation. Someone at my job said that sometimes older calipers stick and since they won't let off the rotor, the car has trouble moving. No codes came up within the last month, so I took off the front wheels, and yes, I found uneven pad wear on the driver side front. I assumed that the caliper needed to be replaced and did just that. Tires went back on, just got back from test drive and they did that "mystery hesitation" once on the way back home. I am still a novice, and have replaced some items on her engine, mine, and at least did my brakes. What should I check now? I am truly helpless, and the last thing I want is my wife's car to break down on the side of the road since she transports our son to and from daycare daily. Thank you so much for any response, but hopefully they will be numerous and soon, before I loose all my hair.

[manicmechanix]

To check for a dragging brake, simply jack up the car and in neutral spin the tires and see if there is excessive drag. A sticking caliper or warped rotor will be pretty obvious.

As far as engine hesitation, a lot of times a car just needs a tuneup-air filter, cleaning the throttle body and maybe plugs, wires and fuel filter etc. What's the status on that? But also check condition of vaccuum hoses and for vacuum leaks and check fuel pressure is at spec. One thing that can often cause some hesistation is dirty injectors. A big bottle of Techron fuel cleaner that treats 20 gals can help.

Another thing that can cause a hesitation feel is the transmission fluid and filter overdue for a change. Ideally you'd want to change the filter and flush all the fluid out through the cooler return line and replace it with Dexron VI. But at least drain and change the filter and refill with Dex VI.

[Tinkerin_wit_tools]

Originally Posted by manicmechanix

To check for a dragging brake, simply jack up the car and in neutral spin the tires and see if there is excessive drag. A sticking caliper or warped rotor will be pretty obvious.

As far as engine hesitation, a lot of times a car just needs a tuneup-air filter, cleaning the throttle body and maybe plugs, wires and fuel filter etc. What's the status on that? But also check condition of vaccuum hoses and for vacuum leaks and check fuel pressure is at spec. One thing that can often cause some hesistation is dirty injectors. A big bottle of Techron fuel cleaner that treats 20 gals can help.

Another thing that can cause a hesitation feel is the transmission fluid and filter overdue for a change. Ideally you'd want to change the filter and flush all the fluid out through the cooler return line and replace it with Dexron VI. But at least drain and change the filter and refill with Dex VI.

First off, wanted to thank you for a reply. It was wearing on my mind and decided to take it into my mechanic this morning. He had to order some parts and will have to go back tomorrow, but here is the lowdown. There was a bubble in the passenger side front brake line and he wanted to replace them. During a road test, he noticed that it was pulling to the left when he braked and took his hands off the wheel, so after careful inspection, he squeezed the rubber hose and saw an air bubble. He explained that it looked from the extreme wear of the driver side pads that it was doing most if not all of the stopping of the vehicle and thus, more wear than the other side. He told me that I didn't need to replace the caliper, but since I did anyway, well, I doubt that I will have to again anytime soon. He gave me lots of tips an warning signs when it comes to wear on brakes, rotors, caliper and the caliper bolts, so I would encourage all to find a mechanic that you not only trust, but find one that will actually explain things to you like he is not just out to bleed you dry of cash. I will ask my wife numerous times over the next few weeks if the issue has gone or is still there, but since I trust the word of my mechanic, I strongly doubt that it will show up again. So, for all that read this, it was more of a "dragging" than anything else, and feel free to ask me any questions about it, since I got quite the lesson in brakes and parts from my tride and true local mechanic.

[Tinkerin_wit_tools]

Well, I am not doubting that I needed what was done, but it still has the issue happening. I really am not sure what would do this, since it is a newer car, I assume nearly everything is hooked up with a sensor and would ding so I could find a trouble code somewhere. Since I blew the last of my available money on the last job, I have nothing left to take it back to the mechanic. SO, now, what should I check that would allow me to self diagnose this since I am still a novice???

[Rick Norwood]

Before you spend any more money at the mechanic's shop, do yourself a favor and do as much of a tune up as you can and or have the tools to do it with. Top of the list should be Air Filter, Fuel Filter (yes Fuel Filter), Plugs, Plug Wires, Distributor Cap and Rotor.

You should be able to buy all these parts for approximately $100 USD and you only need the basic tools.

You should check for vacuum leaks, and clean your MAF sensor. Take some time and check as many vacuum lines as you can find for splits, cracks, broken off or disconnected ends. Look on the Vacuum booster line for the brake system and any other fittings including the black plastic vacuum ball for cracks, splits and broken fittings. I have seen the black ball itself crack and leak as well as the vacuum lines come off of it.

I would also recommend a bottle of Techron Fuel system cleaner, which is added to the gas tank and is available at AutoZone for about $10 USD per bottle.

Good Luck and be sure to post back with your success story or any other questions.

[Tinkerin_wit_tools]

Originally Posted by Rick Norwood

Before you spend any more money at the mechanic's shop, do yourself a favor and do as much of a tune up as you can and or have the tools to do it with. Top of the list should be Air Filter, Fuel Filter (yes Fuel Filter), Plugs, Plug Wires, Distributor Cap and Rotor.

You should be able to buy all these parts for approximately $100 USD and you only need the basic tools.

You should check for vacuum leaks, and clean your MAF sensor. Take some time and check as many vacuum lines as you can find for splits, cracks, broken off or disconnected ends. Look on the Vacuum booster line for the brake system and any other fittings including the black plastic vacuum ball for cracks, splits and broken fittings. I have seen the black ball itself crack and leak as well as the vacuum lines come off of it.

I would also recommend a bottle of Techron Fuel system cleaner, which is added to the gas tank and is available at AutoZone for about $10 USD per bottle.

Good Luck and be sure to post back with your success story or any other questions.

The tune up was performed nearly a year ago and there are no vacuum leaks since the intake manifold was also replaced along with the MAF sensor. I use Lucas in the fuel system monthly, and that is why I think it could be something out of the ordinary. I trust my mechanic and he did what he could and DID fix a problem, so I don't down him at all. I doubt that it may be any vacuum line, but I will at least give it a look this coming weekend. From the possible issues with the stalling in take off, I feel that it may be a slippage in transmission. I hope that this is not the case, but will add some Lucas to it anyway. The fluid level is fine and so is the color. Will keep updating as things progress. Thank you for the input.

[manicmechanix]

I don't mean to knock Lucas especially if you like it but IMO it's about useless in the gas for cleaning the injectors and upper engine and might even be making it worse. I think you should use a dedicated fuel system cleaner that's approved by the manufacture and has proven results like Techron is. It doesn't cost anymore than Lucas probably and it's about the best fuel system cleaner that you can pour into your tank that I know of.

[Rick Norwood]

When I bought my 2000 GMC Jimmy, the mechanics at the dealership told me about a GM fuel system cleaner that sold for $30 USD per bottle. The Dealership Mechanic showed me the bottle and then he made me take a close up look at the Chevron imprint molded into the plastic. He proceeded to tell me that the Techron Fuel system cleaner at AutoZone or checkers was the exact same stuff but was only $10 a bottle. Some one on this Forum did an MSDS Sheet comparison on the two different products and found that the GM cleaner had one half of one percent of an ingredient that was not in the Techron cleaner. I cannot comment about Lucas or any other cleaner because I am sold on the Techron cleaner.

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by Tinkerin_wit_tools

The tune up was performed nearly a year ago and there are no vacuum leaks since the intake manifold was also replaced along with the MAF sensor.

What else was replaced in the tune up a year ago? If the wires, cap and rotor were not replaced, that is exactly where I would start.