Front Ball Joint Removal

[Smith1000]

I just replaced a ball joint this morning. Does anyone know how shops get those rivets off? I really had a tough time removing them. There were 3. Ended up grinding them off with a hand grinder and then drove them out from the top. I need to do the other side soon and I'm not looking forward to it. Are they easier to drill out from underneath?

It seems like it now needs an alignment. When I greased the joint, grease came out the bottom of the joint between the metal crown and the joint, instead of around the rubber grommet. This kind of has me worried. I've never seen one do that before.

[maxwedge]

Not really, in the shop an air chisel makes quick work here.

[trbolvr]

I just did two on Saturday. Yes those rivots suck. I used a 4.5 inch grinder with a cutoff wheel to grind the tops off the first side and then struggled trying to get the ball joint off the headless rivots. Believe me I tried all sorts of things to no avail. I finally resorted to the sawzall with a 6 inch metal blade. 5 minutes later it was off. I started at the inside rivot and worked my way down then switched to the lower ones coming in from the sides. As long as you are carefull not eat into the control arm it works fine. Keep a close eye on your cut with plenty of light. You can feal the right angle by turning the blade up and down as you go. My second one took maybe 4 minutes and was off. Also on the second one I only disconnected the outer tie rod ball joint so I could twist the spindle back and forth easier. Hold the new ball joint in place with your new castle nut, tap the mounting flange up so it matches the angle of the control arm. Have an assistent pry the control arm down with a long pry bar and get your three new lower bolts inplace. The rest is cake. I never did figure out how much torque to tighten the three lower bolts to, anyone know? They are 12mm diameter course thread. I do know that 80ftlbs is way to much. My first one squirted grease out the bottom also. Weird.

[Smith1000]

I had the same problem. I ground off the rivet heads and used an air chisel, but still couldn't get the joint to separate from the control arm. The chisel cut into the arm a little bit. Ended up driving the rivets down from the top. I did not check the torque specs. I just tightened the nuts down as tight as I could get them. I figured the rivets would have been much tighter. Using a sawzall is a good idea. I think I'll start with the sawzall and forget about grinding the tops on the other side.

The ball joint I took off had about a quarter inch up and down play in it. it had been popping for a long time. The joint was completely dry. I had been greasing it now and then, but it must not have been getting through.

[HotZ28]

I use an air cut-off grinder to grind the heads off of the rivets, then use a drift punch & 5-lb hammer to knock the rivets out. BTW, don't forget to lubricate the rear grease fittings as shown below!

[big white bufflo]

i drill the center first then use a air chisle the sheer them off then use a drift to punch them outthe old amc were the same way

[Smith1000]

I forgot about those rear ball joints until the guy at the auto parts store asked if I needed front or rear joints. How frequently do you grease the ball joints and tie rods? I had been greasing them once or twice a year.

What is the best sized diameter drill bit for drilling out the rivets?

I just came in from adjusting the alignment. Had to pull the left tie rod in some to get it to hold the road right and to center the steering wheel.

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by Smith1000

I forgot about those rear ball joints until the guy at the auto parts store asked if I needed front or rear joints. How frequently do you grease the ball joints and tie rods? I had been greasing them once or twice a year.

Usually I grease the rear fittings about twice a year (May & October)