Left side wheel hubs have play, re-packing fix this?

[Cobra4B]

Well after 4 events this year at VIR w/ me and my father both using the car the left side wheel bearings have some play in them. Right side have none.

Is this a fix as simple as repacking them? I've never done this... anyone have pics?

We had the shop who did our setup put the fresh hubs we got from Gary Jones on and re-pack our old ones as spares.

I just want to know what's involved so I can inspect the spares we have waiting for install.

[NZGTRA17]

Originally Posted by Cobra4B

Well after 4 events this year at VIR w/ me and my father both using the car the left side wheel bearings have some play in them. Right side have none.

Is this a fix as simple as repacking them? I've never done this... anyone have pics?

We had the shop who did our setup put the fresh hubs we got from Gary Jones on and re-pack our old ones as spares.

I just want to know what's involved so I can inspect the spares we have waiting for install.

Brian, the bearing play is related to bearing adjustment not just to grease packing.

I would normally inspect the grease in the bearings after every 2 - 3 meetings anyway and adjust the bearings as/if required. If I am running at a track that develops very high brake temps I inspect the grease and bearings more often, likewise if I run in the rain (due potential grease contamination).

Kel.

[Cobra4B]

How do I adjust them? I'm 100% new to this

[NZGTRA17]

Originally Posted by Cobra4B

How do I adjust them? I'm 100% new to this

Brian, I normally do the following;

- Remove cap in center of hub and then remove split pin from bearing nut,
- Remove hub and clean/inspect/regrease bearings (using high melting point grease) as necessary,
- Clean, inspect and lightly grease stub,
- Refit inner bearing & seal prior to sliding hub back onto stub,
- Refit outer bearing, washer and nut,
- Snug nut up tight while rotating hub, this is to take any play out of the bearing,
- Back nut off to nearest split pin hole and check that there is little or no play in the bearing (sometimes you need to fit the wheel to get enough leverage to check properly),
- You may need to repeat adjustment step to ensure that you have correct split pin hole which provides minimal play in the bearing.
- Fit split pin and have a beer.

Others may have a slicker way of doing this so interested to hear other methods of getting optimal bearing adjustment (other than inserting the have a beer step in at the start as well...........!!).

Kel.

[Cobra4B]

Thanks Kel... I'll print that and tackle it over the winter.

[eric1h]

Originally Posted by NZGTRA17

Brian, I normally do the following;

- Remove cap in center of hub and then remove split pin from bearing nut,
- Remove hub and clean/inspect/regrease bearings (using high melting point grease) as necessary,
- Clean, inspect and lightly grease stub,
- Refit inner bearing & seal prior to sliding hub back onto stub,
- Refit outer bearing, washer and nut,
- Snug nut up tight while rotating hub, this is to take any play out of the bearing,
- Back nut off to nearest split pin hole and check that there is little or no play in the bearing (sometimes you need to fit the wheel to get enough leverage to check properly),
- You may need to repeat adjustment step to ensure that you have correct split pin hole which provides minimal play in the bearing.
- Fit split pin and have a beer.

Others may have a slicker way of doing this so interested to hear other methods of getting optimal bearing adjustment (other than inserting the have a beer step in at the start as well...........!!).

Kel.

Thats the way I have always done it!

[Cobra4B]

Thanks guys... helps me out a bunch.

[Cobra4B]

Sorry to bump this, but I plan on tackleing the bearings this weekend when I'm down at my parents' place for Thanksgiving. Just wanted to verify that re-packing and re-adjsuting (re-installing) the bearings will correct the play in the wheel hubs? Just want to make sure that it's not indicative of a worn out bearing or part in need of replacement. It was my understanding that the whole point of bearings like this is that they're re-packable and don't wear out.

[eric1h]

I wouldnt say they dont wear out, contamination, lack of grease, too much play causing too much heat, can all wear them out. but with proper maintenance they should last awhile, hard to say whether they are worn or just need repacking, but repacking is a fairly easy first step.

[Gatorac]

If they are worn or damaged you'll be able to see it when you take it apart to repack with grease.

[Cobra4B]

I've got a spare set of hubs allready re-packed ready to go... I'd just install those, but that wouldn't tell me what's up w/ the ones on there now. Might as well take them apart and inspect everthing anyway.

[NZGTRA17]

Brian, the strip, inspect, re-pack and reassemble of each hub should only take 30mins to 1 hour per side.

A good thing to do if you have not inspected bearings much before would be to research on the net and get some good photo's of what the different failure modes look like in bearings (spalling, galling etc etc). This way when you clean them up you will have some idea of what you are looking for wear indication wise.

I usually get at least a couple of seasons out of front bearings but always carry spares with me especially if racing away from home. I did replace the fronts in my car prior to the 6 hour as the bearings in the car were pretty average condition wise.

It is not unusual for the bearings to need adjusting and I do this regularly as part of normal maintenance on the car (probably every 2nd or 3rd meeting - may be more often if you are getting a lot of track time at your events).

Kel.

[gosborne]

The inspection process is pretty straight forward. Remove the bearings, wipe them down good, then clean them well in a good solvent. A little Kerosene in a clean oil drain pan will do in a pinch. Once cleaned, I like to spray them down with a bit of brake clean and wipe them down again to get any solvent/kerosene residue off.

Look at the bearing cage, it should not be bent or otherwise deformed and clearance between cage and the rollers should be about the same around the bearing. Inspect the rollers for discoloration or any heavy marring. Last, inspect the inner cone (where it cotnacts the spindle), also for discoloration or any gouges. If it all looks ok, go ahead and repack.

Some people like bearing packers, I still do it by hand the old way. Search the internet, I'd bet somebody has posted that on YouTube. Goes without saying to use a good bearing grease - I like Valvoline synthetic. If you do it by hand, and you have nitril (or latex) gloves, use'em. Gloves or not, a little clean motor oil on your hand that has the grease (prior to dropping the blob of grease on your hand) will help the process. Press the bearing into the grease big end first and keep doing this and “packing” until the grease pushes up and out between the rollers on the smaller end and continue until the entire bearing is well packed. Wipe the excess off that has pressed out and you are done. Good luck.

[panozracing]

Agree with everyone except one thing. The bearings are under 30 bucks at NAPA. I run them one season and pitch them. Check them for adjustment and grease often and thats it. Never have had a problem.

[Jim woodruff]

Originally Posted by panozracing

Agree with everyone except one thing. The bearings are under 30 bucks at NAPA. I run them one season and pitch them. Check them for adjustment and grease often and thats it. Never have had a problem.

I fully agree and do the same it is cheap insurance. I only replace with Timken bearings however. Every change on the rear I replace the locking ring tab also. The tabs can be had from Coleman. I get my bearings from the local bearing house and make sure they are all from the same manufacturing batch. I use the red tackey grease .