93 I4 2.0 wont start!!!Please Help!!!

[josh_22_07]

I have a 93 ford probe se my wife had a flat tire the other day at work so i went up and changed it....after doing that the car wouldn't start. i was getting fire power and thought i was getting gas evidentlly not. i had the car towed home so i could look at it a lil easier and found NOTHING! WRONG. i got on the internet and found out about the inertia or fuel pump safety cut off switch in the trunk. i checked it and it WAS triggered so i pushed the red button down and the car fired right up! i let it run for about ten minutes cuz it seemed to be flooded witch i didnt understand because the fuel pump shut off switch should have prevented that from happening ANYWAY i waited till the car was idling fine and took off down the road...no problem i got about a mile away to a stop sign and the car was driving and idling fine but once i got over 2000 rpms the car started bogging down and not 30 seconds later died (my car has never died on me before) so after trying to start it agian for a few minutes i gave upand had to push it ALL THE WAY back home. now the car will not fire. it turns and turns and turns over but will not crank over and actually start... its not even trying to it just turns over...timings fine everything else appears to be fine i have full power to everything radio, lights,etc. i checked all fuses and there fine although the fuel cutout light and the cel both stay on when puting the key in the on position i really dont know much about cars but i know a little if theres anything you can do to help please do!

[Davescort97]

Welcome to AF Josh! I've been to Springfield a few times. It's a nice city. 2 hours from here.

You say the fuel cutout switch light is on. I think the inertia switch is off. To put it on press down on the button. If you have a CEL (Check Engine Light) on the instrument cluster then you need to go to an Autozone or Advance Automotive Parts place and have the code pulled by one of the parts guys. They won't charge you for it. They hope to sell you some parts. Get these 2 things fixed first. The code will tell you what is wrong but not why it is wrong.

Your Probe's has to have 3 things to run. Fuel, compression and spark. I know this is an oversimplification,,,but this is where to start looking. Pull a spark plug and ground it against the engine with the wire connected to the end of it. Have someone turn the starter over and check it for spark. If it sparks it is either all right or sparking at the wrong time. If it's sparking at the wrong time check the CKP (Crankshaft Position Sensor) wires for a good clean tight fit. There is a ring with teeth on it behind the crankshaft pulley. There is one tooth that is missing. This is the tooth (lack of a tooth) that triggers the ignition to fire at the proper time. Sometimes the sensor comes loose or the ring with the teeth on it comes loose. Check for that.

When you pull the plug to check for spark look at the inside of it. If it is wet with gas it is getting fuel, but no spark or spark at the wrong time. If it is dry it is not getting fuel. Go to an auto parts place or Wal-Mart and get some starting fluid. Disconnect the hose going to the throttle body (that thing on top of the engine that is round and has the throttle cable connected to it (the gas pedal). Spray some starting fluid in there and see if it will fire up. If it fires up with the starting fluid you aren't getting any fuel. There is a fuel rail parallel to the valve cover on the back side of the engine on top. It is chrome plated. On the end of it is a valve that looks like a tire stem. Press on it to see if any fuel sprays out. If it does you are getting fuel. You can depress the Schraeder valve (looks like a tire stem valve) after you turn the engine over. You don't want to do it while the engine is turning over because there is chance of fire from a stray spark.

If you are getting fuel and spark, then the problem is no compression. Put it in neutral and turn the ignition OFF. Put the proper size socket with a ratchet on the crankshaft pulley and turn it clockwise as you are facing it from the passenger side fender. You should feel compression (resistance as you turn it). When you have all 3 of these things your car should run.

Again, this is an oversimplificaton. If you don't have spark, it could be because of a bad computer, electronic control unit, bad ignition coil, bad wires, or bad spark plugs. If you don't have fuel it could be because of a plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pump relay, burned out fuel injection fuse, or a bad fuel pump. No compression could be because of worn rings or valves or a broken timing belt. To check for a broken timing belt, take the oil filler cap off and look inside the engine with a light while someone turns th engine over. If you can see the valve train moving the timing belt is all right. If not the belt has broken. If this is the case a new belt will put you back on the road.

I didn't mean to write a cotton pickin' book, but I don't know how much you know. If this bores you I aplogize. Hope this helps. ~Dave~

[josh_22_07]

Thanks so much i will do the basics and get back with you...although i have already pushed down the switch and that worked untill i went a mile down the road and it died again.....im thinking disty but 250.00 is alot to spend if thats not the problem

[Davescort97]

Check the fuel intertia switch again. It could have popped back up.