95 eclipse, stutters while accelerating more than half throttle

tigereclipse · #1 09-02-2009, 06:30 PM

I have a 95 eclipse gs, 5 speed, 2.0 non-turbo (420A) The car stutters when trying to accelerate more than half throttle in any gear. the check engine light is on and when checking it with the key method the only code that pops up is for egr system. the guy before me blocked off the egr valve to try and stop it but that didnt help, it still does it. the car idels fine, geta good gas mileage, and drives fine, but it makes it hard to try and pass anyone.

it has a cold air intake and aftermarket muffler, everything else is stock. there is only 95,000 on the motor. fresh oil change, new plugs, wiers, and a new coil pack. the code says it might be a intake leak. i sprayed everything down with carb cleaner and found no leaks, i found one that way in a different car of mine.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

thank you

david-b · #2 09-02-2009, 11:38 PM

Welcome to AF.

Get the code scanned and find out the exact error code. The key trick is good, but not very informative.

Lack of EGR won't cause any problems like this... so there is truely something wrong somewhere else. Follow all the lines to in the EVAP system and make sure there's no leaks there. If the code gets cleared, does the car run fine then?

tigereclipse · #3 09-03-2009, 07:28 AM

Ok, 2 things. i went to autozone to jave them use the scan tool but no one could find the plug for the tool on the car. so where is the plug located on the car. and number 2. what is a decent way of searching for intake leaks? is using a can of intake cleaner about as good as i can do at home or is there something better?

thank you

david-b · #4 09-03-2009, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tigereclipse

Ok, 2 things. i went to autozone to jave them use the scan tool but no one could find the plug for the tool on the car. so where is the plug located on the car. and number 2. what is a decent way of searching for intake leaks? is using a can of intake cleaner about as good as i can do at home or is there something better?

thank you

It's under the dash, by your right knee. The 95s have 2 connections, OBDI and OBDII. You have to look and feel around for them, but they're there.

Soapy water always works best for me. Carb cleaner jusat kinda gets soaked up and dries really quickly. If you want to be a scumbag like myself, pull the hoses off. Wash them up really good, and then blow into them while capping off the other end.

tigereclipse · #5 09-03-2009, 10:36 AM

K i will look around for the connector, and i will try washing and blowing on the hoses, i will keep you posted.

thank you

david-b · #6 09-03-2009, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tigereclipse

K i will look around for the connector, and i will try washing and blowing on the hoses, i will keep you posted.

thank you

I've found so many vaccum leaks doing that method and my car ran a million times better afterward. Again, just make sure you clean them before putting your mouth on them. Of course you can also use an air compressor too, but there's no fun in that I think. Good luck.

tigereclipse · #7 09-03-2009, 07:42 PM

I have not found any vaccuum leaks, and i have not had a chance to run to autozone yet, but i will after work tomorrow. i blew on the pcv valve and it seems that there might be a little leak in that. air goes through really easy one way, and the other way it goes through, but it takes more pressure. so that is a bad pcv valve, right? would that valve even be causing my problems?

thanks

ned032002 · #8 09-03-2009, 08:50 PM

I think a bad PCV is when no pressure at all can go through, correct me if I'm wrong. I had a bad one that had no flow at all, it was causing my dip stick to push up about 3 inches loosing all sorts of oil.

david-b · #9 09-03-2009, 09:56 PM

A PCV valve is a one directional valve. Air can blow through from the head out to the intake manifold, but air from the intake manifold should not be able to make it's way in. If it can go both ways, replace. If air can't pass from the head to the IM, replace. It's a $3.00 part anyways. I actually stock these in my tool box nowadays. Good idea for tuneups. I would replace it anyways.

tigereclipse · #10 09-08-2009, 06:45 PM

Ok, so i finally had the code read at auto zone. it came up as an egr flow problem. i cleaned the egr valve and the tube before i even took it in, so im not sure what that means.

could it still be a vaccuum leak? i replaced all the lines minus the one for the brake booster, i figure if that one leaked that the brakes wouldnt work so good.

should i just replace the egr valve, and solenoid? i also noticed that when the motor is cold and i get to the first stop sign on my way to work, the rpms go between 1000 and 1500 but after that first stop it idles normal. so could the iac be causing all my problems then?

i am now clueless so any help is greatly appreciated.

tigereclipse · #11 09-09-2009, 01:15 PM

one last thing that i forgot.

Does the clutch have a vaccuum line or no? Im not sure but i didnt think it did, if it does than i did not check that one for leaks either.

The new pcv valve acts just like my old one did, so i dont think that that was a problem, but now it is replaced anyway so it doesnt really matter.

SilvrEclipse · #12 09-09-2009, 04:30 PM

No the clutch does not have a vac line. A vac leak would cause an unstable idle not studdering when on the gas. It sounds like a fuel problem to me. May be a clogged injector. When you get a chance you could pull the fuel rail off and try to clean the injectors and see if it helps any.

tigereclipse · #13 09-09-2009, 05:06 PM

So how would i go about cleaning the fuel injectors? i have never done it before.

also, when i drove it today after the motor warmed up, and i would hit the clutch when comeing to a stop the car would idle betweeb 2000 and 2500 rpms. so now what is causing that?

sganc4life_4 · #14 09-09-2009, 05:20 PM

I remember one time a long long time ago I was having similar problems with my GST. I looked far and wide for weeks for an answer.

One day I was changing the battery and I ended up leaving it disconnected over night. The next morning I reconnected and wasnt really thinking about the studder problem...it went away on its own somehow. I guess there was a "blip" somewhere in the ECU or something of the sort.

Just for shits and giggles, try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to see if it goes away.

tigereclipse · #15 09-09-2009, 05:30 PM

Disconnecting the battery was a no go. i had it disconnected a couple times already, like when i had the egr valve out to clean it.

thanks for the thought though

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