Looks like I am doing a fuel pump next, have a few questions

[exalteduser]

Been awhile since i have done a fuel pump, got a few questions.

1) i already dropped the shield and the tank looks really rusty on the bottom, pretty solid but there were places i didnt want to smack with my mallet(to try to get started). should i just pay the 100 bucks for a new tank spectra- http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...pectra+Premium
Dorman- http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...andName=Dorman
and skip the hassle of rust/debris in tank and having to clean it?

2) is there a surefire way to tell if its just fried or if theres an electrical issue? i have a multi function voltage meter but have no idea how to really check anything, or what wires or procedure to use. a few times smacking the tank got pump to function again, but today it died while driving and its stuck at autozone of all places.

3) been reading alot about how bad airtex is, since thats all autozone has, oriellys has BesTest and delphi. i can just get the pump piece with these right and reuse the assembly?

4) is there anything else i should check/do while i have the tank out? like on that sending assembly or other random pieces.


I hate having to do this since i just got this beast, but I want to do it right and not have to redo it. so If you have any tips other than basics shout it!

Thanks

[Gabe25]

Couple of things come to mine. We need to know the Year, Model, Motor size, 8th digit of VIN or fuel delivery. Post back.

[Gabe25]

Sorry, Over looked that your working on the 94, Vin W. If the tank is really that rusted. You mite consider replacing the tank. Which 94 Blazer do you have. The 1st. or 2nd. Generation? 1st. Gen. your able just to replace the Fuel pump. 2nd. Gen almost always your going to change the whole hanger assembly, which carries everything.

[Leeann94astro]

Originally Posted by Gabe25

Sorry, Over looked that your working on the 94, Vin W. If the tank is really that rusted. You mite consider replacing the tank. Which 94 Blazer do you have. The 1st. or 2nd. Generation? 1st. Gen. your able just to replace the Fuel pump. 2nd. Gen almost always your going to change the whole hanger assembly, which carries everything.

94 is only 1st Gen. 95 is the funny split year.

[rhandwor]

If they use a lot of salt on the highways where you live it can save you problems in the future.

[ken_man_1]

If you think that dropping the tank is a fun Saturday afternoon job, then don't replace the tank. I can tell you that if you're concerned about the tank being that rusted - the fuel pump will certainly outlast the tank. I'd personally - replace that tank.

[exalteduser]

its the square 1st gen style. I was hoping after letting it sit for a day it would maybe start 1 more time to get it home, about 5 miles. but no go, so i have no choice but to pay a tow truck. i could rent a tow dolly but i have nothing to pull it with.

I have an old tow bar ( the kind that hooks under the edge/lip of a steel bumper, and has a chain that connects to top side the same way and you crank it down) but i am missing one of the top side brackets) Guess i have to bite the bullet here.

Is there a way to get the transfer case in neutral on these push button 4x4s? or do i need to flatbed it

[Gabe25]

You could try the last chance process on the fuel pump. You mite just get it to run.
Option 1: Check first to see if the pump is running. If so, try this. Turn your switch on and what 5 seconds. Turn your ignition. off and wait 5 seconds. Repeat this around 5 times, then on the 6th. attemp. Try and start it.

Option 2: If fuel pump isn't running. use a rubber hammer and bang on the side of the tank. You just mite create enough vibration for the pump to start.

I've heard several guys on the form trying these option. Some successful and some not. I personally have tried option 1 and was successful.

[exalteduser]

I have been trying the rubber mallet method, no avail. it worked one other time when this wouldnt start though. I am not getting the 2 second prime cycle thing when i turn the key to on (it was noticeable to hear it before) so im not sure. I also have no way to check my pressure, dont have money to buy a gauge for that. and the parts store one in the rental got broken and they dont have a new one yet. ill try the 5 on 5 off x5 trick

[exalteduser]

Alright none of the above worked. i did get it to start one time and it died after a few seconds. I brought out the rental fuel press gage, the few times i could get the pump to prime, it read 62 psi. turn off key goes instantly down to 57. bled to 54 in <1 minute.

If i tried to start it @62psi, it would fire or sputter and instantly drop to 40 psi. only way to get it back to 62 was bang tank with hammer.

Also did some elec testing. fuel relay was functioning, giving power on grey wire when needed. I cant reach above the tank to test at the rear, but the problem i see is the wires dont look colored. coming out of the top of tank i can see what looks like 4 black wires, disappearing under tailgate area. but they all looked the same dark grey/black color.

Sounds to me like the electrical is ok since i can get the thing to buzz on demand, just wanted to try and rule that out before buying other stuff.

Still sitting at autozone, its on the side of building so they arent so worried. the guy there was cool and said "just dont let it be a week"

[Gabe25]

OK, I'd first get to where you can work on it. You need to check your fuel pressure to ensure that its not leaking. With the ignition switch on. You should have 61-65 lbs of pressure. Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure, pending on the load. Ignition switch off, your pressure should not drop below 55psi within 5 minutes. If it drops below 55psi before 5 minutes. You’ll need to check to see if your injector or Fuel regulator are leaking. If no leaks are found, Then do a full fuel pump test. A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.

[exalteduser]

Well I got her towed tonight for 69 dollars, better than what most of them wanted.
Think im just going to get it up on stands and soak things with rust remover spray for tonight, and dig in tomorrow.

[exalteduser]

Ok, I am having major problems getting the fuel lines to dis-connect. it is SOOOO rusted. trying where they hook to the sender, and a few inches away where it hooks to lines to front.

Can i cut the rubber lines to get the tank the rest of the way down and just use a straight barb and clamps to put it back together? thanks

[Leeann94astro]

Not recommended for anything other than short-term.

Use a good penetrating oil and soak heavily. Give a couple good taps with something metal (helps the capillary action), then try again in an hour or two.

[exalteduser]

well i got it down but the unit is toast, spun one of the steel lines just a little bit and it snapped. but in fairness it was all rotted out. at least putting this back together will be easy, new tank, sender,pump, new everything....
just gonna hurt my wallet