Codes 171 & 174 and 401 fixed

[morritus]

I've just completed the TSB 03-16-1 update with the instructions provided
in this forum. It worked great! Step by step everything was exactly as it was described. I had all 3 codes 171, 174 and 401 on my 2000 Windstar and for now all codes are gone.
http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html

The only two items on the list that I replaced were the port seals and the isolator bolts. Everything else looked OK to me.

The only thing that I didn't understand was why the valve cover was included in the TSB. I did not replace that because I figured it could be replaced at another time without to much trouble. So I was wondering, should the valve code be replaced to prevent 171 and 174 codes in the future? It certainly would be worthwhile to replace it if it would prevent his problem forever.

Thanks to all who provided information on this problem.
It worked great!

Thanks

[bdahl385]

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl425i.htm

Note that the old valve cover has a hole in the baffle almost directly below the PCV vacuum line. With that hole there, splashing oil can be sucked up through the PCV and line into the intake manifold allowing liquid oil in there instead of just vapors.

The new valve cover does not have this hole. Do a Google search and you can see that some have simply plugged this hole on their original valve cover with RTV silicone or a nut and bolt and reused.

I don't know for sure if it makes that much difference in the oil migration or not. I bought a kit that had the new valve cover and used it when I did the TSB a year ago.

[morritus]

I took off the valve cover to see what would be required to make the repair.
On my 2000 windstar there was a plate over top of the area where the PVC intake is located to keep oil out and wouldn't you know there was an extra hole drilled in the plate that was letting the oil into the PCV area. I can't believe the car was manufactured that way. I put a small bolt and nut in the hole and tighted it up to keep the oil out and put the valve cover back on again. It's as good as new now.
Thanks

[bdahl385]

Just curious if you used "permanent strength" Loctite or something similar on the threads? You sure wouldn't want that bolt and nut to loosen with all that oil sloshing around. No telling what damage that loose hardware could cause your engine.

[morritus]

I just used a bolt with a nut and lock washer.
I thought that would be enough.
Thanks

[njlion]

New member and glad I stumbled across this thread.

I have a 2003, 3.8L, with 95,000 miles. Engine started running rough about 3-4 days ago and scanner reads codes 171 and 303.

Did some preliminary comparisons of step by step instructions (which are great) to my engine and noted a couple of differences.

1. When I removed the PVC valve from the front valve cover and looked down the hole there was no 1/8" (oil seep) hole. There was a noticeable amount of brown crud/varnish. Is there any reason to replace the valve cover under the circumstances?

2. In the first picture where the metallic DPFE is highlighted, in its place in my van is a much smaller, black polycarbonate box. I'm assuming that's the updated DPFE and since I'm getting no 401 reading, I don't need to replace it?

I'll probaly find out more stuff as I get into inot it, but that's it for now.

[northern piper]

welcome!

Question 1) nope, you've got one of the new style valve covers, no change needed.

Question 2) nope, don't replace the DPFE. You may need to in the future but the black plastic one replaces the temper mental aluminum one.

P

[Andrew1941]

Also good to know is that if you have to replace the DPFE, get the Ford one. I was told not to buy aftermarket, but I did. It last 6 months, now I have the Ford one. Only have about 3 months on it so far, but no issues yet.

[njlion]

Finished the procedure this afternoon. Also replaced only the iso bolts and port seals. Other components looked to be in good shape once I cleaned the oil off of them.

There was visible accumulation on the port surfaces, but there didn't seem to be much crud in and around the orifices, even the dirtiest ones. Gave them all a good cleaning with acetone and it did the trick. Still, I'm surprised that such a small blockage caused my engine to behave the way it did. The port for cylinder 4 seemed as dirty as the one for cylinder 3, but no misfire on that one. Go figure.

Anyway, the engine is running nicely, no more misfires, or noticeable losses of power when climbing hills. CEL and codes have disappeared.

Once again, I'm really happy I found this forum, the leckemeby write-up, and my thanks to those who responded to my questions.