Oil Pan Gasket- cork gasket or seal packing - or both?

[floridacamry]

I have a 1995 2.2 Camry and I am getting ready to replace the oil pan gasket. I did this a while back and used a cork gasket at the time, but it has started leaking again. After reading several posts I want to make sure that I understand this correctly- don't use the cork gasket that they sell at the parts store- just use the seal packing material from Toyota? If it is ok to use the cork should I be using the seal packing along with it? If I should not use the cork is it ok to use the Ultra Black RTV from the parts store? Any help would be appreciated. Gary

[jdmccright]

Cork isn't the best these days, but the key is to not over torque the bolts. I also use the oil-resistant RTV to help hold it in place while reinstalling the pan, and seals the cork surfaces from absorbing any oil.

Install the pan with the gasket that has been coated with sealant on both sides and allow the sealant to fully cure. Then retorque to spec. Good luck!

[floridacamry]

Thanks for the info- I guess the trick now is to figure out how much sealant to use on each side.

[jdmccright]

Not very thick...maybe 1mm or so. You don't want to get it too thick or it will squeeze out and possibly fall into the pan over time.

Straighten out the oil pan sealing surface with a small hammer or a fine file and sandpaper. Also make sure the block surface is clean and free of old gasket/sealant, nicks, scratches, dents, and gouges...file and sand smooth them away.

Lay the gasket on some newspaper block side down and smear it on the pan side with a finger until it is fully wetted, then lay it on the pan and repeat for the block side. I usually give it 5 minutes to start curing, but you can assemble it immediately since it usually takes at least a few minutes to wrangle it back into place. Hope this helps!

[Daniel M. Dreifus]

Originally Posted by jdmccright

Not very thick...maybe 1mm or so. You don't want to get it too thick or it will squeeze out and possibly fall into the pan over time.

Straighten out the oil pan sealing surface with a small hammer or a fine file and sandpaper. Also make sure the block surface is clean and free of old gasket/sealant, nicks, scratches, dents, and gouges...file and sand smooth them away.

Lay the gasket on some newspaper block side down and smear it on the pan side with a finger until it is fully wetted, then lay it on the pan and repeat for the block side. I usually give it 5 minutes to start curing, but you can assemble it immediately since it usually takes at least a few minutes to wrangle it back into place. Hope this helps!

That may work just fine, but I like to perform all service by the book. (1994 Camry 4 cylinder, 195,000 miles).
FSM (factory service manual) calls for FIPG (form in place gasket material) only for the engine oil pan seal. The automatic transmission pan gets a factory cork gasket with no sealer.
The book is fairly specific about application - gives an illustration and comprehensive directions.
Make sure sealing surfaces are completely clean of oil. I use Berryman B-12 carburetor cleaner as sort of a universal cleaner as it leaves no residue and doesn't harm O2 sensors.
Applied properly FIPG lasts a long time.
Exhaust has to be removed for oil pan removal. You should plan on replacing the gaskets, and for the small additional cost, I also replace the castellated nuts.
Check the FSM drawing for "non reusable parts."