97 Taurus oil pan replacement

[sixseas]

Im looking for an oil leak in a friends 97 Taurus 3.0L. I took a preliminary look and it seems the oil is coming from the center of the pan and side and drain plug are dry. Ill look closer tomorrow but suspect the oil pan rusted through and will need to be replaced. Does the pan just slide out or do I have to drop the exhaust system? Are there any alternatives that work like epoxy?

[RoB51988]

Your going to have to move the Y pipe because it doesnt just slide out. I replaced mine about 2-3 months ago. I didnt completely remove the Y pipe, I just removed the connections from the exhaust manifolds so it could be pushed aside. If you do that though, youll need 2 new gaskets for it. And also make sure you support the Y pipe because it is heavy and you dont want all that weight on the flex pipe. So all you have to do is push it out of the way a little and the oil pan will come right out.

[sixseas]

Thanks thats a big help. I didnt know if the pan would slide out now I know what to setup for.

[tripletdaddy]

In theory, those metal impregnated epoxies like JB Weld will work, but whatever you select, be sure it says it can be in constant contact with oil and can withstand 300 deg F or more. I would apply the epoxy on both sides of the hole. If it is large, I would add a piece of sheet metal inside to sandwich the epoxy on the inside and provide reinforcement, while still applying an exterior layer. One thing I don't like about the two part epoxies that come in two tubes like JB Weld or in a double syringe arrangement, the stuff is real runny. So you will have to be real patient and do the gluing in stages, like the inside first, or buy the metal epoxy stick, where you break off what you can use in a few minutes and kneed it together. It has the consistency of putty, so it lends itself better in your instance. I need to take my own advice on that as I have struggled and become very frustrated with the two part stuff running and sagging too much. And when it finally does reach the thicker consistency I want, in 30 seconds, you can't do anything with it anymore. There are also supposedly some adhesives and gasket making products that may be more suited for that repair. Without reading one of them, I can't remember exactly, but I'm pretty sure the copper, high temp, silicone gasket maker is oil resistant, but you'd have to check that. If I had a choice, I'd go for that first before the epoxy if it is rated for oil contact all the time.

[Fordhcw]

You should get a used oil pan from a junk yard or take the old one to a welding shop or radiator repair shop. Epoxy is only good for a temporary fix at such high temperatures. Part of the problem is that the thermal expansion and contraction of the steel epoxy joint occurs two or more times daily. Plastics tend to harden and become brittle as they age. The hot oil may weaken the epoxy's bonding strength and the patch could fall off without warning.
I once put fiberglass cloth and epoxy around a rusty gas tank, but the gasoline softened the epoxy and the tank began to leak. Epoxy does not bond very well to steel even if the surface is sanded. Over time the hot oil may weaken the epoxy in the same way that gasoline does.

[sixseas]

Thanks, I took a closer look and its rusted and cracked in y pattern about 3 inches long so will replace it. I have had good luck in the past using epoxies for pin hole leaks on hot water fitting on the engine and fuel tank. I put a sheet metal screw with rubber washer then used epoxy as a sealer. I never had to touch the repairs again. This time its a crack weakened by rust so Ill have to bite the bullet when I get back home. After 20 years in manufacturing never thought I would see the day when I would think if these American car makers allow critical parts of a expensive car to rust out ever maybe they are in the wrong business.