cam magnet

[owenrich]

can anyone please tell me if there could be a problem in my dis-connecting the cam magnet on my 2003 SLK200K? I have done this because of the "rattling" noise the variable cam adjuster makes at low revs. The car appears to perform the same and it is certainly quieter, but am I doing harm to the engine?

[owenrich]

Originally Posted by owenrich

can anyone please tell me if there could be a problem in my dis-connecting the cam magnet on my 2003 SLK200K? I have done this because of the "rattling" noise the variable cam adjuster makes at low revs. The car appears to perform the same and it is certainly quieter, but am I doing harm to the engine?

Now I know you don't have the SLK200K in the USA or Canada, but someone must have an idea about my question! It's the M111 engine fitted to the the 230K and I would guess all SLK's and most Mercedes have similar variable timing. The cam magnet operates this to allow for more power at high speeds (revs) and less fuel use at low speeds (revs). Unfortunately they all make a noise (rattle) in operation, some worse than others. I'm told this is normal, but for a quieter life I have disconnected the electrical plug to the cam magnet. Is there a problem with doing this please? Can it do any harm to the engine? Owen from Wales UK.

[eclass]

I don't think it will "hurt" anything but you may set a engine light and notice a little lack of power. personally i would either live with it or get it replaced, yes the noise is "normal" but i have had good luck with replacing them and the new one is quieter.

[owenrich]

Originally Posted by eclass

I don't think it will "hurt" anything but you may set a engine light and notice a little lack of power. personally i would either live with it or get it replaced, yes the noise is "normal" but i have had good luck with replacing them and the new one is quieter.

Once again good advice &thanks. However, the replacement option is too difficult & expensive! Apparently about £500 plus & maybe four hours labour adding up to something like £1k!! I do have the engine management light on, but can live with that.and i'm relieved that it's probably not doing any harm. Thanks again.

[vectortech]

Originally Posted by owenrich

Once again good advice &thanks. However, the replacement option is too difficult & expensive! Apparently about £500 plus & maybe four hours labour adding up to something like £1k!! I do have the engine management light on, but can live with that.and i'm relieved that it's probably not doing any harm. Thanks again.

It's a 111 engine? 4 hours? Uhmm thats a little steep. Its right on the front timing cover. I would do some searching for the part. I would think you could get it for a little bit less expensine than that on line.
No it will not "hurt " your engine per-sa. You will not get optimal fuel milage, power will be lacking and the long term effects will not add longevity to the engine. I wouldnt drive it long like that.
Do some searching and let us know. You sure its a 111 engine?

[owenrich]

Originally Posted by vectortech

It's a 111 engine? 4 hours? Uhmm thats a little steep. Its right on the front timing cover. I would do some searching for the part. I would think you could get it for a little bit less expensine than that on line.
No it will not "hurt " your engine per-sa. You will not get optimal fuel milage, power will be lacking and the long term effects will not add longevity to the engine. I wouldnt drive it long like that.
Do some searching and let us know. You sure its a 111 engine?

Thanks again for the help with this. The engine is a M111-958 (R170.444) It's a 2003 Slk200K. I don't think they were exported to the "New World", but the Slk230K has the same M111 engine, albeit 973. The motor has done 78000 miles (UK) so I guess it's worn and that's the noise (rattle) at low revs. I will check a few suppliers and I have a guy who could do it for a lot less than MB or even an "Indie". But I believe it can be complicated and it's got to be done right. your comments would be welcome as usual.

[vectortech]

Could be this too


Changing the adjuster is not complicated though.

[eclass]

correct me if i am wrong, i think removing the supercharger is needed to remove timing chain tensioner. the rest is, set engine cams to correct position and lock into place with locking pin, remove upper front cover valve cover, and adjuster. reset timing tensioner and make sure the camshaft adjuster is rotated clockwise, reinstall.

[vectortech]

Well, I thought he was refering to the actual magnet- on front of the timing cover. This is very easy to replace. I think your refering to the actual sproket and rotating assembly. If the magnet is weak it would cause this condition ( its most likly leaking oil also. ) This is what I was refering to .I do not know which component is at fault.
The picture I tried to post was the bulliten for noise coming fron the timing chain area caused by the coating coming off of the crank shaft timing chain sproket. This is another possibility.
Sorry about the confusion!
I have yet to find you wrong on anything Mr e-class ! LOL!

[owenrich]

Originally Posted by vectortech

Well, I thought he was refering to the actual magnet- on front of the timing cover. This is very easy to replace. I think your refering to the actual sproket and rotating assembly. If the magnet is weak it would cause this condition ( its most likly leaking oil also. ) This is what I was refering to .I do not know which component is at fault.
The picture I tried to post was the bulliten for noise coming fron the timing chain area caused by the coating coming off of the crank shaft timing chain sproket. This is another possibility.
Sorry about the confusion!
I have yet to find you wrong on anything Mr e-class ! LOL!

Sorry guys for the confusion. It is the cam adjuster that I maybe need to replace. The magnet that I have disconnected, leaks oil but that is another story, controls the adjuster and allows for variable timing. I have replaced the cam magnet & fitted the MB "starterline" (oil blocker). But the noise of the cam adjuster at about 1500-2000 revs, up & down, suggests it's worn and eventually needs to be replaced. eclass's post is, I think, what I was asking about. Cheers guys.