1998 - Brakes lights came on Brakes softened

[Sandfobs]

I was out camping and the parking light came on the day before we returned back, I had first thought the parking break was not releasing but it was not grabbing at all. Anyhow by the time I got home I had a softened pedal. Thank goodness I made it home safely. The van is parked right now and I tried putting some brake fluid in and the parking light went out but the pedal still goes right to the floor. It's soft to press the pedal down.

I read about the master cylinder being the problem but I have also read in my repair manual that it could be the Power brake Booster as well. I have to remove the master cyclinder to get at this booster so my point of thought is.. if it's the cyclinder or the booster, why would the parking lights go out?

[roadrunner2]

When you say 'parking light' do you mean the the lights that designate you have the parking brake engaged?
You added brake fluid and the light went out so the fluid (in the power brake reservoir) must have been low. Leaking?

You're going to have to inspect and repair (as necessary) the parking brake at the rear wheels too.

The manual you refer to, is it a shop repair manual or a Haynes or Chilton?

[Sandfobs]

Yes it's the Haynes Repair Manual... Ok I found the leak, it is a metal line running from the left rear of the vehicle to the right side rear tire. I'll call (line 1)

This metal line is connected to another metal line that appears to be ok, and this line is connected to another line towards the front of the vehicle, I'll call (Line 2).

I know I'll have to purchase a line 1 but I'm not sure what it would be called to purchase and I'm just guessing but I might have to purchase a line 2 as well as it could break when taking it apart to replace line 1?

I'm guessing I have to drain all the brake fluid out and bleed from the furthest tire away.

[roadrunner2]

Originally Posted by Sandfobs

Yes it's the Haynes Repair Manual... Ok I found the leak, it is a metal line running from the left rear of the vehicle to the right side rear tire. I'll call (line 1)

This metal line is connected to another metal line that appears to be ok, and this line is connected to another line towards the front of the vehicle, I'll call (Line 2).

I know I'll have to purchase a line 1 but I'm not sure what it would be called to purchase and I'm just guessing but I might have to purchase a line 2 as well as it could break when taking it apart to replace line 1?

I'm guessing I have to drain all the brake fluid out and bleed from the furthest tire away.

They're just called brake lines and are usually steel. If you get OEM ones they will be pre-configured for your vehicle.

The van is a '98 so I would be inclined to replace both lines.

Yes, you will wind up draining the fluid.

You'll also need assistance with the brake bleeding procedure in that the reservoir must be kept full (To the full mark) during the bleed.

With the reservoir full and someone holding steady pressure down on the brake pedal, only let out enough to clear the air out.

Make CERTAIN the brake pedal is NOT PUMPED at any time during the during the bleed off.

Like you said, start the bleed from the furthest away from the master cylinder.

Right rear, left rear, right front and lastly, left front.

Oh yeah, use ONLY pipe fitting wrenches.

[Sandfobs]

Ok I'm going to take off the metal line today to replace and bleed the system. I have 3 questions I have is I have read in the manual and since the pedal is going to floor I'm sure air has entered the system which I would need to bleed the entire system. I noticed that the fluid level is still good in the master cyclinder and I don't think I lost enough to fall below but my question are do I bleed the hydraulic modulator because it says I should if the levels ran dry which I don't think it did. That's the first question.

Second question I also have is in regards to the TCS modulator having to be primed, further reading it sounds like bleeding it as well so I'm assuming it's bleeding the TCS modulator not primed... I hope they mean the same thing here.

Third question I have read in other posts to bleed the wheels starting from the rear right side and then to the rear left side, right front and left front. In the manual it's saying Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, and then Right front, I'm not sure what to do here LOL

[Sandfobs]

Ok the metal line is replaced but there is still fluid in the master cyclinder I was shocked that it didn't all flow out when I replaced the line. I guess this was normal as the guys at the part shop expressed. Now I'm getting set to bleed the lines but of course no tube to fit on the bleeders. So I might as well go buy a bleeder kit. Anyhow I was looking at the bleeders on the wheels and they are pretty rusted, so I have sprayed both rear wheel bleeders with break away and have inspected them further. I can't get a wrench on them properly so I'm using a socket to be sure of the size and I believe it's an 8mm but I'm still not absolutely sure.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to do here even when I have the right wrench it sure is tough to get in there to loosen it. I suppose I could use the socket to loosen for now, I even thought of replacing all the bleeders themselves as I saw in other posts.

[Sandfobs]

Ok brake lines are on and I have a stand alone bleeder kit, which means I can pump the brake with the bleeder open and it has a shut off valve installed on the tube, very cool gismo. Anyway I am still somewhat confused regarding the sequence of bleeding each wheel, I double checked and it says in the manual - Right rear, left front, left rear, front rear. but everyone keeps saying to do both rear tires first, then the front.

It also says in the manual if I only change the one metal line that I only have to bleed the one wheel. What does everyone think?