clear coat question

[rhdmiklo]

Sup guys. I have a quick question regarding clear. Just to clarify ahead of time, all the paints that I am using are tamiya.

Ok, I just finished laying down a few coats of German Gray Tamiya paint. It looks good, not too much orange peel, but does look a little dull. I have the tamiya clear and wanted to know do If I need to sand the paint down before I lay the clear? Also, how long do I wait till I spray the clear?

Oh, the last one. Should I warm the clear bottle up before use?

Thanks alot.

[.vr6Love]

Im probably the newest guy on these forums and have 0 experience.. but heres what i found while i was reading some tips/tricks.

I'll finish up this installment with one important note about Tamiya's lacquer paint. If you choose to apply Tamiya's clear gloss (no. TS-13) over a Tamiya color finish, you'll need to be careful when you apply it. You have two choices: you can add the clear coat immediately after applying the last wet color coat, or you can apply the clear coat after the color coat has cured and gassed out for at least a month. Tamiya's clear gloss paint cures at a different rate than the color paints in the line. If you wait even a day to apply the clear gloss, the different curing rates will cause the clear finish to crack.

http://www.scaleautomag.com/sca/defa...px?c=a&id=1116

Its the second last paragraph. Like i said i have 0 experience though.

Good Luck

[MPWR]

Welcome guys.

The above advice is applicable only for spraying enamels. It actually has nothing to do with lacquers. You can spray lacquers over lacquers anytime after about an hour or so.

Originally Posted by rhdmiklo

Ok, I just finished laying down a few coats of German Gray Tamiya paint. It looks good, not too much orange peel, but does look a little dull. I have the tamiya clear and wanted to know do If I need to sand the paint down before I lay the clear? Also, how long do I wait till I spray the clear?

Oh, the last one. Should I warm the clear bottle up before use?

German Grey is going to be dull- it's supposed to be a flat military color. But Tamiya clear should fix that fine. You do not need to sand before clearcoating. Make sure you spray the clear in light mistcoats- not heavy wetcoats. Tamiya lacquer clearcoat has a way of destroying anything under it if applied too heavily. Apply it slowly, and leave an hour or so between coats. Don't even try to do it all at once.

And warming the can will make the clear spray smoother.

[rhdmiklo]

thanks for the info. And yea, I will be using the ts-13 clear. So I can actually spray it the next day? Do I need to wetsand the clear? Or just use rubbing compound?

Thanks alot though, this is most helpful

[MPWR]

Yes, next day is great.

Wetsanding and compound is your choice. Personally I don't wetsand paint or clearcoat for any reason, especially if more paint/clearcoat will be sprayed. I find that water spotting and wetsanding dust/mud is just too much of a contamination risk. Dry sanding with very fine abrasives will more than do the trick.

But if you spray the clear on in light coats and use the warm can trick, compound may be all you need whe you're done.

[Didymus]

Follow MPWR's advice, and you'll be fine.

Originally Posted by MPWR

Personally I don't wetsand paint or clearcoat for any reason, especially if more paint/clearcoat will be sprayed.

I do wet-sand with 2000 grit wet-or-dry, but only to remove dust bumps or orange peel. If a surface is smooth, with little-or-no paint texture, I just use Tamiya compounds, moving from Coarse to Fine to Finish. Tamiya really mis-named Coarse; it's actually very fine. Nonetheless, it will polish out mild orange peel.

Before painting, I always wash parts with a soapy solution, then rinse well under the tap. But, as MPWR says, if you let tap water dry on a surface, it will leave a mineral residue. To prevent that, gently blot up water drops with an old tee shirt.

Ddms

[guiwee]

OH..OH hey guys newbie here also.Ive never clearcoated anything.But i want to try it on this mp4/20 im working on.The question is what about testors gloss clear?Is it any good?Everyone here talks about ts-13,zero,and all the rest but never testors to my knowledge.Is it a lacquer or enamel Ive heard its a lacquers but the can says enamel.

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by guiwee

Is it a lacquer or enamel Ive heard its a lacquers but the can says enamel.

Unless it's part of Testor's new lacquer system, it's an enamel with a reputation for turning yellow over time. But you're more or less stuck with it - or softer-finish clear acrylic - if you're clear-coating enamel.

If you're clear-coating a synthetic lacquer like Tamiya TS-series or MM Lacquer System, or a single-part urethane, I suggest getting a couple of "power cans" of U-POL from Ditchek & Sons at:

http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.ya...ajaclpoca.html.

U-POL is very similar to TS-13, but it's cheaper. I mean a LOT cheaper!

I think the problems with syn lacquers are the result of wet lacquer thinner reacting with styrene and/or decals. They can be overcome by starting with a couple of very light, dry coats.

Ddms

[Tibi Keke]

Originally Posted by guiwee

OH..OH hey guys newbie here also.Ive never clearcoated anything.But i want to try it on this mp4/20 im working on.The question is what about testors gloss clear?Is it any good?Everyone here talks about ts-13,zero,and all the rest but never testors to my knowledge.Is it a lacquer or enamel Ive heard its a lacquers but the can says enamel.

Hi guiwee, what type of paint you want to clearcoat? If you want to clear only the paint TS 13 is good (with the condition that you spray over simillar Laquer paints, no enamel's, no acrilic from small buttels!), but don't spray to heavy coats. But if you want to clear the decals, than try to use Tamiya X 22 Acrilic or Gunze Sangyo Top Coat Gloss. The secound clear is sold in Spraycan. Tamiya TS 13 could melt the decals, and my experience is on the same carmodel as yours!

[.vr6Love]

So if i read correctly all Tamiya's TS series is lacquer paint and i can just clear it like next day after my color coat's have dried?

[guiwee]

My mistake guys>I only use ts-straight from the can.always .I dont have an airbrush.i wont use it over decals though.So none here recommends testors gloss huh?

[gasdriverca]

I have no problems using TS-13 over my decals but I do the couple of Mist coat thing first then the heavy coat with no problems! then sand the final coat down with 2000grit and polish it out & finish with Tamiya finishing polish.

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by .vr6Love

So if i read correctly all Tamiya's TS series is lacquer paint and i can just clear it like next day after my color coat's have dried?

Yes and yes.

TS paints have a nice gloss even if they aren't cleared, but you can spray the clear-coat minutes after spraying the color coat if you like. I wait a day or two before sanding, though.

TS and U-POL are not traditional nitrocellulose lacquers. They are synthetic lacquers that aren't nearly as "hot" as the old lacquers. Many folks - including the nice people at my LHS - insist that you can even spray TS over cured enamel. I haven't tried this myself.

Both U-POL and TS12 clear coats contain thinner that can react badly with some decals, causing bubbling and other problems. This is easily solved by spraying first few coats thin and light and "dry." In other words, hold the nozzle at least 12 inches away from the model, and don't allow the paint to puddle. After a couple of light coats, a wetter coat will work just fine.

Ddms

[racer93]

Originally Posted by Didymus

TS and U-POL are not traditional nitrocellulose lacquers. They are synthetic lacquers that aren't nearly as "hot" as the old lacquers.

So you've had great results with U-POL, ddms? Care to post any pics with it's results? I'd like to see it. It seems quite a bit cheaper, and that's always good. I'm seeing if it's worth going to from Future...

Thanks!

Daniel

[rhdmiklo]

Thanks alot for your time. The knowledge on this forum is excellent. But, now for my last question. After clear, how long do I wait till I can use rubbing compound?