74 350 timing

[Ceas350]

What it a good timing degree for my 350. I'm trying to achieve the best mpgs and hp. I currently have a 2 barrel, champion plugs, and an accel coil. Also does anything like the idle speed or the gear its in really matter

[oldblu65]

The factory timing setting will be the best choice as it was engineered to be a compromise between MPG and HP . You can find this figure on the underhood decal ( if it's still there ) , in your owners manual ( if you have it ) or by buying the appropriate owners manual at your local parts store ( i.e.- Autozone , Advance , etc. ) The idle speed is important , if it's too high you're wasting fuel , too low you're probably stalling out constantly . As for the gear you're in being important - yes ! You want to keep the engine RPM's as low as possible without lugging ( over stressing ) the engine . Good luck !

[MagicRat]

Originally Posted by desylina

You must go by the tag on the front of the radiator shroud, or the hood. If it is missing, then set it at 8-10 degrees with the connector unhooked under the dash behind the glove box (brown wire) that is by itself. Pull the plug apart, and don't forget to put it back when you are done. Run the engine till its at operating temperature, shut off engine, remove/unplug from brown wire, start the engine, set the timing, stop the engine, torque the hold down bolt to distributor, start engine & recheck timing, if good, stop engine, and replace/connect on brown wire. If you have a check engine light on, you can either wait to see if it goes out on its own, or remove (-) battery cable. I would wait due to loosing radio presets, and/or other things. It should go off in about 10 minutes or less on its own. Don't set your timing at anything other than what it calls for. Giving it just a little more timing doesn't help. This is because the computer controls the ignition timing anyway after the engine comes up to operating temperature.

I know this is an older thread, but, just for the record, this procedure does not apply to older cars like this one.

As the thread says, this engine is from 1974. It pre-dates computer controls by many years. Most likely, it is a points-style system, as 1975 was the first year for HEI. (unless it has been modified)

Therefore, you do not need to worry about any computer connection, check engine light or brown wire. They do not exist on this car.
Simply remove the vacuum line at the distributor, plug it, set the timing as usual, then reconnect the line.