99 passenger window motor/regulator

[SlimJimRD]

The motor has stopped working again, I had cleaned it etc per other posts but it gave out.
I went to get a new motor at autozone and they want $75+ for a motor and you can choose plastic or Aluminum housing $85.
For $69 you can get a motor attached to regulator. Should I just replace it all? How much work is it to replace the regulator with motor attached?
Any of the options have a Lifetime warranty.
Thanks
Steve

[Airjer_]

In some cases it is easier to replace the motor and regulator as one assembly. If the motor can be removed without having to remove the regulator than just replace the motor.

[SlimJimRD]

I have taken the motor off before so replacing that only is not a problem. I just wondered if I there is any benefit to replacing the regulator as well other then saving money? If I get just the motor does it matter if it is plastic or Aluminum housing?

[wiswind]

This is a link to a picture of what I bought for my '96 passenger side window.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2791...11220610ccsPIy

I bought it through rockauto....it is a "Cardone" brand.....new one "w/ gear" in the description.....for just over $52.

I just looked up the same part for the 1999 windstar......and they say "with gear without regulator"
So that is what I bought.
It is MORE work to replace the regulator......but if the regulator is what is bad....then you would need to replace it.
It is possible that the regulator is worn....causing the window to bind.

They do list the regulator, WITH motor separately....just under $50 (before shipping).....and under "more information" they show what it is.....it is the complete metal bracket that goes all the way across the bottom of the window glass, and the arms that go to it....with the "teeth" that the gear on the motor connect to....
Of course this part includes the motor as well.

I have not replaced the regulator.....just the motor/gear as shown in my picture.
So I cannot comment on how hard the regulator is to replace.

[Airjer_]

The regulatos are not that hard to do. They have to go in so it is possible for them to come back out. Once the window is disconnected its just a matter of unbolting (or drilling out rivets) and then finding the magic angle and position that allows you to slide it out.

[RoidBear]

I have a problem with my sliding door. When I try to lock/unlock the sliding door on my 1998 Ford Windstar LX, you can see that the lock is trying to go up or down, but doesn't seem to have enough power to do so.

What do you guys think may be the problem?

[tomj76]

FYI, on Carbone lift motors.

I don't trust them. The ones I bought were not new, but rebuilt ones. This normally would be fine, except the definition they use for rebuilt is loose at best.

I had to replace one on my GM vehicle. The GM lift motor contains an integral burnout protection. There's a temperature senstive resistor in the motor that increases in resistance if the motor overheats. This limits the current in the motor and keeps the winding insulation from melting and shorting the windings.

The GM lift motor slows down over time, probably either because the brushes become worn or because this resistor degrades over time. Carbone "rebuilds" these by injecting a little stuff (not sure what the stuff is) around the resistor to keep it from getting hot. The motor works great except that there's no protection on it. Both of the two that I installed (in the same door) burned out because my switch kept getting stuck. I finally solved the probelm when I bought an original GM motor that was still in working condition. It was even a little less expensive than the rebuilt ones.

I don't know how Ford implements the thermal protection of lift motors, but now I am always suspicious of rebuilt motors.

[wiswind]

The Cardone units often are available as rebuild or as new.
I bought NEW as it was not much more.

Before buying a motor, one might want to check the front and rear slide rails......what the window glass rides on.
I have had mine break......they are only held to the bolt tabs by small tack welds.
They are not expensive from the dealer and are very easy to replace.....they just bold in.
This is a link to a not so good picture that shows the "track for window glass" inside the door....there is one in the front and one in the rear.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2034...11220610LtfafR


Here is a link to the first of several pictures that I posted that show how to remove the inner trim panel from the front doors.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1445...11220610uYhLWw

This is the first of a series of pictures for the window motor replacement.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2098...11220610yHIuFX


As for the post about the slider door lock....I would check the contacts on the door pillar and the spring contacts on the forward part of the door....
If these become dirty....or don't seat correctly....it will cause you to not get all the power needed to the door lock solenoid.
It is easy for something to catch on one of those spring contacts......and knock it out of line....
All the power for the door locks goes through those contacts.

[SlimJimRD]

I finally took the door panel off and the slide rails were okay.
If I hit the motor it would work. So I replaced it and then the driver window stopped working. Replaced that motor and now they are working properly.
Steve