Tips for applying clear coat

[mustangemd19]

I'm working on a model and I'm thinking about putting a clear coat on it. The model has stripe decals and I sprayed it with Enamel. I bought a spray can of Testors clear coat for it but I may or may not use it. I have either Testors or Model Masters to choose from at my local hobby shop. I can buy one online but would prefer not to if I dont have to.

I'm a little scared because the last time I put a clear coat on a model it became all foggy and ruined the model. I'm guessing it is because of the Humidity the day I sprayed it or because of the brand I bought (Walmart off brand).

Any suggestions on how to spray it or why it became foggy last time would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

[ChillyB]

Originally Posted by mustangemd19

I'm working on a model and I'm thinking about putting a clear coat on it. I bought a spray can of Testors clear coat for it. I have either Testors or Model Masters to choose from at my local hobby shop.

I'm a little scared because the last time I put a clear coat on a model it became all foggy and ruined the model. I'm guessing it is because of the Humidity the day I sprayed it or because of the brand I bought (Walmart off brand).

Any suggestions on how to spray it or why it became foggy last time would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Don't worry. Even if your paint fogs you've not ruined the model. You can always strip the paint and start again.

You are probably correct about the humidity being the cause of fogging. That is a problem especially when using lacquers, but it can also affect enamels. It might just be crappy paint, but probably not. I use Wal-Mart's Colorplace clear but only over carbon fiber decals and sometimes in non-crucial applications, but NEVER as final clear on a body. (It has a yellowish tint right out of the can.)

If your paint job is enamel, then use enamel clear. Testors and Model Master are both good (and both are available in enamel or lacquer) though I prefer Tamiya's TS-13. You can also try Rustoleum's lacquer clear, which is outstanding (but if you do, make sure you test it out on your paint first to ensure compatibility).

Whatever clear you use, first warm up the can under some hot water, and test spray to see how the nozzle works. And it is better to spray too little rather than too much; you can always apply more, but if you shoot too much you are then going to have to sand down drips or runs. You'll have to adjust your painting speed and your distance from the model depending on which clear you choose to use.

It takes practice and if you have a spare body to use for that purpose, then do so. Some people use plastic spoons for testing.

Good luck.

[Some_Kid]

Some lacquers have little wiggle room when it comes to humidity and fogging, duplicolor especially. Tamiya TS paints are about the best out their in a can, and in my opinion have the most range in terms humidity/temp/ and applicability.

[mustangemd19]

Thanks for the advice. I did a test run on an old model and it came out fine. A few air bubbles but I think that is because I was too close.
I did it inside also,

[RallyRaider]

Be careful with Model Masters enamel clear, in my experience they can yellow over time.

[mustangemd19]

I put the clear coat on the final car and turned out great. I got a small run on the driver side but you can barley see it. I ended up using the Testors gloss coat I bought. Hopefully it doesn't turn to yellow but I guess we will see.
I'll post pics of it when im finished in the Completed/Finised gallery.
Just keep an eye out for a Shelby GT-500 in a week or so.

Thanks again for the advice.