im goin all motor what to do first???

[purespeed187]

whats up guys i need some help i plan on runing an all motor gs-r with a 50 shot of nos what should i get first.

[purespeed187]

also this guy told me that i would see large improvements with skunk2 stage 2 cams cam gears and pulleys. should i go with that?

[GSR]

all motor means no forced induction type power adders. that includes n2o, turbo, or supercharger

well anyways first thing is higher lift/longer duration cams. you'll also need to replace other valvetrain components (springs/retainers) in order to raise the redline and take advantage of these more agressive cam profiles. next raise the compression. cheap way to raise it a few 10th's is with a thinner head gasket. otherwise you'll need to disassemble the block and replace the slugs.

free flowing intake + exhaust. for the intake, i'd recomend j's. for exhaust (from header to muffler) hytech

BTW...all motor, n/a suck

[purespeed187]

u jerk

anyways im going na because i dont have the money or the time for turbo

[casperGSR]

Originally posted by purespeed187
u jerk

anyways im going na because i dont have the money or the time for turbo

Not to mean or anything but why not just get some basic bolt ons to hold you over for a while...then save some money for a little bit so then you can go with a force induced setup...

[Fliquer]

^^Yea I gotta agree with him. A turbo, while expensive, will add a lot of HP per dollar. To get the same power through NA tuning, you would probably end up paying more $.

Then again, Honda tuning is just more expensive in general

[GSR]

nitrous is cheap and works, i'd say thats your best choice. its not a constant power adder but i almost never spool the turbo during daily driving anyways (except under bridges, going through tunnels, when theres people/cycling by the road, on ramps...actually nevermind, i love to hear the bov )

and just to give you an idea, the hytech header/cat/exhaust combo is a little over 2g's. its about the best on the market with a 20+ hp gain (on a type r)

[KrNxRaCer00]

Originally posted by GSR
nitrous is cheap and works, i'd say thats your best choice. its not a constant power adder but i almost never spool the turbo during daily driving anyways (except under bridges, going through tunnels, when theres people/cycling by the road, on ramps...actually nevermind, i love to hear the bov )

:hehehe: u bastard...i need that...

o...jus listen to gsr, foreel he's giving the advice i would, an he know's his ish...

[casperGSR]

there really is no better sound on a car then hearing the turbo spool up and then shifting and hearing the bov scream out...gives ya chills everytime.

[purespeed187]

i would go turbo but i cant afford to have my car in the shop for weeks at a time getting tuned and installed

[purespeed187]

i was plannig on buyin a nitrous kit problem is which one and what do i need to do to my engine for prep before installing the N02

[GSR]

basic tune up. change plugs, distribuitor cap+rotor, fuel filter and run some fuel system cleaner through your tank. someone told me about mobil's, i never knew they made any products to clean the fuel system but i trust the name. a/f gauge and thats about it. you can get an aftermarket inline fuel pump if you'd like...cheap insurance

[redmanjd]

their is nothing wrong with all motor. But all motor is not as cheap as people thing. it is a bout the same but it have to have better tunning

[90gs]

all motor seems the sensible thing to do if you have a high mileage car because if you turbo/sc a high mileage car that'll beat it to shreds

my integra has 196,000 miles on it and it still pulls hard and has no problems at all.... ill probably either rebuild the b18a1 or swap a b16a1 into it...

i had a question though... could i leave the bottom end of the b18 and put a b16 head on it, would that give me vtec?

[redmanjd]

all motor does the same thing. it just compresses more air and creates a bigger explosion in the cylinder . i wouldnt do anything to a high milage motor. ls/vtec isnt that reliable for a daily driver for poor rod to stroke ratio. at high rpm it wears down the side of the cylinder walls.