Touchin up paint after clearcoat

[Slash.Snakepit]

Hi all!

I am wondering if someone could give me a light at this, I have painted a body with automotive paint, cleared it with 2 parts automotive clear.

Since my skills are a bit off, I have some orange peel and a few dusty spots and during polishing I burn through in some areas.

What do you do when that happens? Touch up those spots or respray the whole body? Is there a problem in spraying paint over the clear coat?

Or should I strip the paint with isoprpyl alcohol and start over?

Thank you for your time!

[drunken monkey]

do you need to touch up colour or the clear coat?
If it's just the clear coat, then you can mask of the section that needs to be repaired and spray on clear, which you then sand the edges of to merge back into the existing clear.

If it's colour that you need to repair, that will depend on where it is and how much touch up you need.

[Slash.Snakepit]

Thanks for that!

Well, let's see if I can get more specific without pics (I am at work but will provide pics later)

Its a BMW 535i, I burned through the paint in the trunk lid and on the right front fender all the way through the primer...damn I was soooooooo happy on how thin I could paint the colour coats.

I am really thinking of respraying the whole body and clear it again.

[spideyman]

Looks like you are going to have to do this the way a body shop would.

Mask off the entire car except for the fender and trunk lid. You’re going to have to do it so that the edge of the masking is slightly of over the panel. Then trim the masking back to the panel lines of the fender and trunk this way you will have a nice crisp line and the panel lines will hide any change in paint surface. Sand the fender and trunk lid with some 600 grit sand paper, but just light enough to give the new paint something to bite on to. Clean the surface well and you’re ready to paint. Spay on a couple of dry coats then wet. After that you can clear as normal. Once its all dry Remove the masking and you should be good as new.

I say all this assuming that you are spaying with an airbrush, since your paint is so thin. If you are use rattle can then you are going to want to take in the fact that rattle cans distribute a lot more paint then and airbrush would. Thus causing you to bury details in paint. This is some thing that you’re going to have to take into consideration and choose accordingly.

I hope this all helps and keeps use posted.

[Slash.Snakepit]

Originally Posted by spideyman

Looks like you are going to have to do this the way a body shop would.

Mask off the entire car except for the fender and trunk lid. You’re going to have to do it so that the edge of the masking is slightly of over the panel. Then trim the masking back to the panel lines of the fender and trunk this way you will have a nice crisp line and the panel lines will hide any change in paint surface. Sand the fender and trunk lid with some 600 grit sand paper, but just light enough to give the new paint something to bite on to. Clean the surface well and you’re ready to paint. Spay on a couple of dry coats then wet. After that you can clear as normal. Once its all dry Remove the masking and you should be good as new.

I say all this assuming that you are spaying with an airbrush, since your paint is so thin. If you are use rattle can then you are going to want to take in the fact that rattle cans distribute a lot more paint then and airbrush would. Thus causing you to bury details in paint. This is some thing that you’re going to have to take into consideration and choose accordingly.

I hope this all helps and keeps use posted.

Thank you very much for that!

Yes I am using an airbrush (Paasche VL), I think I should try this approach first.

Pics coming soon!!

[spideyman]

Originally Posted by Slash.Snakepit

Thank you very much for that!

Yes I am using an airbrush (Paasche VL), I think I should try this approach first.

Pics coming soon!!

Glad I could help and good luck.

[Slash.Snakepit]

OK now, some pics of the problem, not good ones I found quite tricky to shoot that silver color.

[Some_Kid]

That should be an easy fix especially since its silver. I would lightly sand the paint surrounding the area you burned through just to help make a level surface. No rougher than 2000 sand paper. Mask the area off. Then spray the silver, don't patch spray it, spray it as though you were motioning your hand to spray the entire body, once it starts to look level or uniform with the rest of the body, then you can clear it. Make sure you put alot of clear on your body's next time if they are metallic paints.

Where did you get the 2 part clear paint from I've been looking to get some myself. How long did it take the clear to dry and harden?

[Slash.Snakepit]

Originally Posted by Some_Kid

Where did you get the 2 part clear paint from I've been looking to get some myself. How long did it take the clear to dry and harden?

Hello

Thanks for that tip too.

I bought the paint and the clear at a local paint store that sells automotive paints.

I went to the automotive option mostly because I am in Brazil and haven´t been able to find a good source for model paints. When I found some they are more expensive then light crude oil - and can´t buy it overseas because our customs and postal service have some law against it. Very toxic stuff though. A professional respirator is a must and a very well ventilated area - outside is the best option.

As for drying time, I applied the colour coats some 10 min apart, then a wet coat, waited some 10 to 15 min and cleacoated a few times...some mist coats and then wet ones. I think I used too much catalyzer because it was very hard some 6 hours later, I also think that was why there were orange peel.