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Old 03-31-2009, 01:33 PM
gordonli1 gordonli1 is offline
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Hardness of Clear Coats

I want to know how hard are clear coats, cos from the reading around i did on this forum, it tells you how 'clear' (gloss) they are rather than how hard they are, cos i dont want the clear coat to be 'soft'?!

I no finishers clear coats (urethene based) are really hard but poses a BIG BIG health risk, same with 2k clear coats, since i dont have any kind of extractions fans in my flat, i want something more safe.

I know there are acrylic based and lacquer based clear coats, which is better in the context of hardness and gloss it displays...and is it ok to be used as a clear coat layer for tamiya acrylic or zero paints?

Hope you can provide some pros and cons of the different clear coats available.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:01 PM
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Re: Hardness of Clear Coats

If you don't have equipment for handling fumes, you really need to stay with aqueous acrylics (Tamiya or the like). Don't even consider messing with lacquers or urethanes. This hobby is not worth poisoning yourself for.

Tamiya makes a clear gloss acrylic (X22), which can be used over their other acrylics to seal them, give them depth, or make them shinier. Thin it with their acrylic thinner X20- it definitely works best with the proper thinner.

Water based paints will never be as hard as solvent based or catalyzed paints. But you can use them to create beautiful finishes. With skill and practice, a model painted with acrylics really can look as good as one painted with lacquer.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:32 PM
gordonli1 gordonli1 is offline
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Re: Hardness of Clear Coats

well i got decent mask so i will using those, and keeping all the windows open etc in the flat and painting it inside a massive cardboard box in the hallway so should be ok...

what good lacqure based clear coats are good? is tamiya X22 clear gloss water based? or acrylic based? and can i use lacquers based clear coats over tamiya acrylic paints?

sorry if my questions seems really long but hopefully it should clear a few things about different paints in my head :-)
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:08 PM
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Re: Hardness of Clear Coats

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonli1 View Post
well i got decent mask so i will using those, and keeping all the windows open etc in the flat and painting it inside a massive cardboard box in the hallway so should be ok...
That is the minimum level of protection you should be using for aqueous acrylics. Do not use anything more toxic than that in any space that you (or other people/animals) live in.

Quote:
is tamiya X22 clear gloss water based? or acrylic based? and can i use lacquers based clear coats over tamiya acrylic paints?
X22 is an aqueous (water) based acrylic clearcoat. You cannot use lacquer over aqueous acrylic (like Tamiya acrylic) paint.
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sorry if my questions seems really long but hopefully it should clear a few things about different paints in my head :-)
No worries- we're all here to learn.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:21 PM
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Re: Hardness of Clear Coats

MPWR

I've got a 3M respirator thats be used for auto paints. I've also got gloves. I usually work in an open garage with the windows open as well. Should I be good to go safety wise for all paints?
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Old 03-31-2009, 06:32 PM
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Re: Hardness of Clear Coats

Hard to say without really seeing your setup.

But based on your descriptions, what you're missing is ventilation. Get a few large box type window fans- and put them into the open windows, so they are blowing out. You want to be able to move a large volume of air efficiently out of your space. Without that, the garage (even with doors and windows open) will keep much of the fumes in place. So you need to move it out and dissipate it.

Check the cartridges on your respirator. The phrase you're looking for is "suitable for use with volatile organic compounds (VOCs)".
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Old 04-01-2009, 11:11 PM
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Re: Hardness of Clear Coats

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonli1 View Post
well i got decent mask so i will using those, and keeping all the windows open etc in the flat and painting it inside a massive cardboard box in the hallway so should be ok...
I'm not sure what a "decent mask" is, but a mere mask is no substitute for a professional-level painter's respirator. We're talking less than $40 here, not much considering.

As to the cardboard box, it may keep dust off the model and prevent overspray from speckling the walls, but anything that concentrates aerosols in a small area is not a good thing for the modeler. The best place to paint a model is outdoors - while wearing a respirator.

Ddms
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