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Old 03-31-2009, 08:39 AM
michfixit michfixit is offline
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1996 3.3l; radiator & water pump replacement

Ok.....I get to replace radiator and likely the water pump as well. Looking for pointers. I have requested the haynes manual from library but dont have it yet. I have done a radiator on a taurus before, but never a water pump.

1. Water Pump:

I have read where some say to remove pass wheel. Is this necessary? I like to use car ramps. Any issues if I just use the ramps and keep that wheel on? Will the pump replacement be an awful job if I dont remove the wheel?

Also, is the rubber o-seal the only seal used in the pump replacement? i.e. no gasket or RTV stuff at all? Only the rubber seal??

2. Radiator:

Anything special/unique in this job? Like I said, I've done a radiator but not this one...

Oh, and I did get the online repair info from the sticky above, but that somehow makes me feel it is not an all-inclusive writeup and appears to be a bit sketchy....maybe i am wrong, but that is the way it comes across...
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Old 04-01-2009, 02:23 PM
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Re: 1996 3.3l; radiator & water pump replacement

Normally I'd give you a link to the procedure off the AutoZone website but, now it appears you have to register with them. They generally have fairly comprehensive procedures for generation 3 vans. Submit info for your van and select repair manuals.

I've changed a couple water pumps on these vans though not recently. I used jackstands and pulled the wheel. Seems like going at it from underneath is doable but, a bit more of a PITA. I used RTV.
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Old 04-02-2009, 07:50 PM
Vats Vats is offline
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Re: 1996 3.3l; radiator & water pump replacement

I have done the water pump twice. The best way to go is to remove the wheel. you also have to remove the plastic wheel arch cowl. The pump is then relatively easy to access. If I remember right there are 5 bolts holding it on. Of caution though be careful with the Bottom bolt. Mine broke off as there seems to be road salt exposure there and it does not take well to aluminum. Just to advise though I have been running the van for 7 years without that bottom bolt and have never had any sign of coolant leak although each time i use a small bead of sealant.

The only gasket is the o-Ring.

The RAD is relatively straightforward. You have to remove the top plate that runs across the front and it will come out with the fans etc. I remember this from when I replaced the engine.
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:33 PM
tempfixit tempfixit is offline
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Re: 1996 3.3l; radiator & water pump replacement

Ditto to the being very careful with the bolt removal, I twisted off 2 of them side by side, bottom and next one up facing the grill. Hopefully I get at least the bottom one out. Its a huge pain to drill themn out.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:34 AM
michfixit michfixit is offline
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Re: 1996 3.3l; radiator & water pump replacement

Hhmmmm....I had been checking this post for replys and for some reason did not find any so I moved forward anyway. The ramps worked great and I left the wheel on for the water pump.

I also broke the bottom bolt, and could have easily done so to another 2 of them, but got gun shy and so I got some PB blaster and used that and they came off. However, this took me a TON of time because they did not loosen easily and so I had to do the back and forth thing over and over and over. Took forever since I put very little torque on them and was overly cautious after breaking the bottom one.

Took like and hour just to get them out, but well worth not breaking another bolt. I even went so far as to downside to a 1/4" socket wrench so there was even less torque on the bolt. The bottom one broke pretty easily and I was honestly quite surprised that it broke.

I never was successful in drilling it out and using an e-z out so I risked it and put together w/ 4 bolts and RTV blue with the o-ring gasket and so far so good.

I wished I had re-checked this forum before I continued on the job because the exact same bolts you guys had probs w/ I did as well, but I learned a lesson for sure on those bolts!!!!!

That rad was another story! Getting it loose from the condensor?? unit in frt of it was a big pain since bolt access was thru the front frame area. Also, my fan would not fit thru the top so I had to disconnect that as well, another pain. I had taken off the top trim that goes over the rad and the other unit as well, but that was not enough to get stuff up and out so the whole job became a pain.

It is done now and leak free, but took way too long. I must have missed a key step to aid in removal.

What other piece had to come off? The frame section is in the way...you're not talking that piece, are you?
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