Clunk noise, thump under feet front of car

[GTP_2000_4DR]

As you guess, I have a 2000 Grand Prix GTP.

I have had almost everything near the front changed.

Both outer tie-rods.
swaybar (stabalizer bar)
hubs
brake pads and rotars
driver side axle (2x) (bungie cord left behind by mech. tore a hole in boot)
transmission rebuilt
struts (everything new except springs)

Issue: I have a clunking, thumping feeling in the front end of the car. I feel it when I brake (stop at a light) and as I begin my acceleration. I had a similar noise in the rear when I would go over bumps. This noise started after I had the struts and driver side out tie rod installed. I yelled at the owner because I told him specifically to check my struts and they told me everything seems fine, even with the rear sagging!
I went to Pep-Boys to get a tire-rotation due to their late hours and my work hours and the mech pulled me out and explained to me the vibration I was yelling at the owner of a AAmco in the Atlantic City area about! Turns out the struts were bad and the tires were cupped!

The mechanics in this area are the worst of the worse! If anyone can recommend a mechanic in Atlantic County, NJ or close by that doesn't break more then they fix please send me a message!

My aircondition lines are cracked by the condensor, AC was fine before they dropped the tranny. Said there is no way they did that, even though they have to support the engine and the AC unit appears to attach to the frame (but I may be wrong).

DRL no longer work, they were working while they had the car, trying to get the key out, because they bent the linkage on the tranny.

The rear sway bar was making the rear noise they claim, they said it was loose and even though it's less then a year old, it must of come loose! And it had nothing to do with them installing new struts!

Brakes, and fluid.... 1st they broke the wire harness on the master brake cylinder resivoir. Do not know, or they do not know exactly how they fixed it. But my brakes (might of been bled wrong by mech who installed or by them) do not retrack fully. I was forced at night still over an hour away from home to pull over and compress the caliper back. I ended up installing new front calipers, but I think there's still an issue with them retracting fully!

Thus the clunking noise in the front!

--->---> --->---> ---> ---> = ME!

I am sorry if this is elsewhere but I did search, and this is the closest I found. I am already late for work, and I am responsible for DE, NJ and Philadelphia are. So, I spend a lot of time driving and I usually do not get home until late! The driving part is the main reason behind my rush! I do a couple hundred miles a day!

Thank you......

*note*

maybe similar issue: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...t=noise+engine

[BNaylor]

Welcome to AF.

How about lower control arm bushings? There is a vertical and horizontal bushing which can cause a similar noise. When you replaced the struts were new upper mounts installed?

[grandprixgtx00]

Originally Posted by BNaylor

How about lower control arm bushings?

thats exactly what i thought after reading not even 1/4 way through the post. the OE lower control arm bushings are a terrible design, and if you havent replaced them...guaranteed they need to be replaced real bad.

as a heads up...if you decide to DOY, its a real pain in the a*s to get the old ones out if they are real bad

[tblake]

Just throw a set of lower controll arms in it. Chances are the ball joints arent in too good of shape either.

Just make sure you go with some good factory ac-delco's. Any other brand is going to be a headache. (trust me, aftermarket parts for our GP's just plain out SUCK)

[Bearwulf]

What engine & transaxle? Some mounts or torque straps, if left loose or worn badly,can cause this problem also.

PS: I wouldn't trust AAmco as far as I could throw them.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by Bearwulf

What engine & transaxle? Some mounts or torque straps, if left loose or worn badly,can cause this problem also.

The OP stated he has a GTP meaning it has the L67 SII 3800 engine and has the 4T65E-HD autotransaxle. But we knew that.

[GTP_2000_4DR]

Originally Posted by BNaylor

The OP stated he has a GTP meaning it has the L67 SII 3800 engine and has the 4T65E-HD autotransaxle. But we knew that.

Sorry thought that was a little funny!

Good job guys! Great response!

This I stole from the link I provided. I've had this for over a year, is this the problem area? On the control arm? Or would it be one of the other bushings? I've had this bushing like this for well over a year and no mechanic spotted, reported or thought this was an issue!

The first is the front control arm bushing


It looks like the rubber in bushing is torn and coming apart

I took it to a mechanic, roughly 20-30 mins away. I went there before, but it's a small shop and far away! Plus, the guy tries to get you to repair every problem at once... whether or not their near each other!

Of course I brought it to him and he didn't hear it. I was on passenger side, and I didn't hear it. Of course it started up shortly after I left the shop!

This combined with a possible brake related issue, scares the *&$# out of me when braking.

I never had the lower control arm changed, cr_p! You mean I have to pay for someone to pull all that stuff off again!

OK, will add this to my list of parts to fix!

1. Intake manifold

2. Air Conditioner (cracked lines after tranny rebuilt)

3. Evap leak (possibly after new tank installed) a must for inspection!

4. Brakes flushed and properly bled!

Sorry if I jump around, I'm doing like 10 things at once!

I had everything but the springs changed... when the struts where changed, but I think anyone can do a better job then these guys...

I'm done with these guys, I just hope this guy can get me out of the shop and on the road again!

[tblake]

That looks like the clunk to me!

You can either replace that bushing/pay someone to, or you can buy a set of new lower controll arms. They are quite easy to replace, remove the ball joint, remove the stabilizer bar link, and then unbolt the two lower controll arm bolts.

It would probably be a good idea to have a new set of stabilizer bar links to put in too becuase you will probably have to break them to get them off.

[doctorhrdware]

Is that hard to replace the bushing, or is it easier to replace the complete control arm. What would be the cost of the bushing compared the control arm.

[tblake]

For the busing you would have to remove the LCA, press out the old busing, and press in a new one. And then do the process all over again in a year when your new busing fails you. (BTDT) I cant remember what the bushings costed, 40 bucks?

The LCA's run about 150-200 each at the dealership and will be a direct bolt in. Not to mention you will get both new bushings on each side plus a new ball joint.

(remember...what you do to one side you have to do to the other, and then after new LCA's or just bushings, you will need an alignment)

[GTP_2000_4DR]

Originally Posted by doctorhrdware

Is that hard to replace the bushing, or is it easier to replace the complete control arm. What would be the cost of the bushing compared the control arm.

Thank you! That's was a good question!

I think I'm going crazy!

Thank you tblake!

PS

Who said they will be in the NY area??? Want to detour to Atlantic City???

[doctorhrdware]

At Advance Auto, for Moog K6712 $15.99 and Moog K6715 $9.99, AutoZone Durlast 12799 $23.99 Durlast 12800 $10.00 and Murray's Mcquay-Norris FB719 $8.89. These are on line prices only and did not pay attention of it was for a set or individual. These are the major supply houses around me, not including GM supply houses.

[BNaylor]

Getting the bushings whether aftermarket or OE GM is not an issue. I recall only the vertical bushing is available from AC Delco. The issue will be replacing them. Technically, only the vertical (rear) bushing has a replacement procedure. You are supposed to use a GM "J" tool set or take it to an automotive machine shop to have it pressed out and in. IMO better to replace the complete control arm at the DIY level.

Also, the vertical bushing requires an alignment procedure during installation or it may screw up the original ride, handling and road feel.

Align flat edge of the bushing flange to the mark in the control arm. Ensure that the edge of the bushing flange is 30 degrees from the centerline of the lower control arm. Ensure the thin slot in the bushing is facing outboard. Then insert bushing into the control arm.

[richtazz]

Delco bushings are about $15 each also. I did the ones on my wifes mini-van (same basic design), in about 30 minutes per side. You don't even have to take the control arm off the vehicle to change them. If you don't have a compressor and and air hammer, it will take a lot longer because there is no room to swing a hammer. Her van is still going fine, this was almost 3 years/25k miles ago. If there is no play in the ball joint and the grease boot is fine, I wouldn't bother replacing the control arm. If the ball joint is oem/worn/suspect, then a new control arm may be the better way to go.

[BNaylor]

I prefer taking the control arm off. Plus to do the forward bushing (horizontal) kind of difficult doing that when left connected to the subframe. .... If you have 100K miles or more I would replace the ball joint but then replacing the complete control arm is better IMO.