2002 Windstar 3.8L crankcase

[Ed_Strong]

Is it aluminum or metal? Can I fit one from a Taurus or Mustang with the same engine?

I'm trying to help my brother who just got this Windstar and started leaking engine oil thru the crankcase. Are they a major pain to remove and replace?

[wiswind]

Are you talking about the oil pan? They are steel......and can rust.
The block, from what I understand is iron, and the head is aluminum, the lower intake manifold is also aluminum.

Now.....to remove the oil pan, one needs to remove the "Y" pipe.......which includes the catalyitc converters.
When you do this.....use care to avoid damaging the oxygen sensors......the exhaust manifold studs (soak with PB-blaster for a while).
Also....support the flex pipe end....with a wire hanger... (at the rear of the Y pipe assembly), do not just drop the front of the Y pipe....disconnect the rear also.....if you let the flex pipe dangle.....or over extend it....you will damage the braiding.....

Watch for the oil level sensor that may be mounted on the oil pan.

I have not done this job (but have replaced my Y pipe), so I am just repeating what I have read.

As to what fits......I don't know.......but I would be careful....the front wheel drive version of the 3.8L motor is slightly different from the rear wheel drive version......and they used the front wheel drive version 3.8L in the Windstar ONLY starting in 1996.

[12Ounce]

Changing the engine out is not a huge job, but it takes a little planning. I used some metric all-thread rod to lower/raise the subframe-engine-tranny. You can do a search and look at the few photos I took during the hurried job.

I am not sure at all about switching engines from one model to another ... but it should be easy enough to determine at a Ford parts counter. Are replacement engines the same part number for the two models in question? You can probably also find this on-line.

[Ed_Strong]

My brother is not switching engines, just the oil pan (crankcase) if it's damaged and since I own a Windstar he figured he asked me for info.
I've never done that particualr job before on mine, so I figured some one here with a knowledge or someone that owns a 2000 model might be able to help.

[wiswind]

I would look into the source of the leak.
There have been posts on here about the oil pan rusting through....and leaking.
The rust would be from the outside in.

The other place to look is to see if it is coming from in between the motor and the transmission.......could be oil or tranny fluid. If oil.....would be the rear main seal.
Also look to see if it is leaking from the front of the motor......

The oil pan goes up pretty far....and one will need to get under there with a light to look around.

The most work in replacing the oil pan will be messing with that Y pipe....which is why I mentioned it.
Once you have that off.......it will be pretty straight forward.

I do NOT know how the oil pan is sealed......gasket or RTV.....
If it is RTV....make sure to use the correct stuff (sensor safe) that won't give off fumes that will damage the sensors.....and will still seal correctly.

But...the first step would be to give things a good looking over to know just where the leak is coming from....

[Ed_Strong]

Thanks, I just talked to him over the phone and told him your advice... again thanks for the help guys.

[Ed_Strong]

Well brother reported back and it turns out the oil pan is aluminum, he had to get it patched. Put it back on the van and no more leaks... thanks again to all that lend a hand.
Only problem now is that it's leaking exhaust and making noise at the "Y" Pipe, I asked about the flexpipe but he says it not leaking there. I told him to loosen it up and retighten the "Y" Pipe. Hopefully he'll get it going soon

[wiswind]

WOW! I thought it was steel......at least I am pretty sure it is on my '96....must be one of the things that they changed over the years.

As far as the "Y" pipe leak.....again a under vehicle check is in order.
When I replaced mine.....I had a problem getting it to seat correctly at the exhaust manifold.....
Otherwise.....the next opening is at the flex pipe.....unless something became broken.

NOW......it is possible for the heat shields on the catalytic converters to break loose at the spot weld joints that hold them on.
This would be a obnoxious rattling noise.
The FORD TSB on this has the dealer install oversized hose clamp style straps.
You can get them yourself at the plumbing department of your local hardware store.
I have pictures posted that show these straps installed on mine.

I DID have one of the OEM catalytic converters rattle internally......only solution for that was to replace it (new "Y" pipe).
But for a rattle.....look for the heat shield....or other source as it is best to keep the OEM unit if possible........and a OEM replacement is quite expensive.
I used a Walker "direct fit" aftermarket.....which has been doing the job....but the OEM is the best.....at 3-4 times the cost.

Your advice to check the flex pipe is what I would have suggested......as it does not like to be "overflexed"......which leads to leakage.

[Ed_Strong]

Thanks again Wiswind, I'm glad to report it is all well now, the "Y" Pipe was not seated well on the manifold. A re-adjustment of the exhaust took care of that and everything is workin OK now.

[wiswind]

That can make a LOT of noise for a small opening...........
It was a real pain to get my Walker "direct fit" to fit up nice to the front manifold.

[Ed_Strong]

I just hope if I ever have to do this kinda work on mine, it doesn't turn up this ugly!