Driver's Side Halfshaft needs replacing - 95 Transport

[yellowfiero]

I've done ball joints, brakes and outer tie rods. Is this job within reason? Was wondering what I was up against. Looks like they cost $65 rebuilt with core, which isn't that bad. The one I have has a bad boot, so I thought I'd just replace the whole thing.

Thoughts?

[Jeffrv]

Replace it with an exchange unit! If the boot has gone, dirt and water has been allowed into the joint, and lots of wear has already taken place. You can clean it, and it will sound OK, but within a year you will be back in replacing the shaft..this from experience. As you have found out, they are not really all that expensive, do it once and do it right. Just my opinion
Jeff

[Airjer_]

You'll need to seperate the ball joint from the lower control arm. You'll need a 35 or 36mm socket (I might be a size off) for the axle nut. Make sure you have a drain pan under that side or the transmission to catch any fluid that might come out of the trans when you pop the axle out. It is vitally important to torque the axle nut after you replace the axle. If you dont you will be replacing the wheel bearing in the near future. Sometimes the axles can be a little stubborn when you try to get them out of the trans. A big prybar will usually pop them out. They can also get stuck in the hub, an air hammer makes easy work of these. Other than that theres nothing to it.

[yellowfiero]

Originally Posted by Airjer_

You'll need to seperate the ball joint from the lower control arm. You'll need a 35 or 36mm socket (I might be a size off) for the axle nut. Make sure you have a drain pan under that side or the transmission to catch any fluid that might come out of the trans when you pop the axle out. It is vitally important to torque the axle nut after you replace the axle. If you dont you will be replacing the wheel bearing in the near future. Sometimes the axles can be a little stubborn when you try to get them out of the trans. A big prybar will usually pop them out. They can also get stuck in the hub, an air hammer makes easy work of these. Other than that theres nothing to it.

Thanks for the note!

A couple of questions:

1. Do I have to separate the tie rod end too?

2. When you say you need an air hammer on the hub side, can you describe how one would use the air hammer? What are you specifically hammering on? Thanks.

[Airjer_]

1. No you don't have to but sometimes it does make it easier to get the cotter pin out and the ball joint nut on and off.

2. Sometimes the axle will rust inside of the hub. There is a dimple in the end of the shaft that is a great place for an air hammer. Most of the time you can give a a couple of taps with a BFH and it will push out. Its just faster to use the air hammer.

[LMP]

Originally Posted by yellowfiero

1. Do I have to separate the tie rod end too?
2. ..on the hub side, ...What are you specifically hammering on?

1 I agree with Airjer...take it off for ease of action

2: here is how I do it...(did it 4 times) : if you have mags, remove, pop center cap off, replace wheel on car. Lower car down so it rests on wheels..this to spare transmission from abuse. At times, I kept someone keeping the brake pedal down. Use 34 mm socket or the exact 1 5/16 socket (yeah, should be metric, but 33 is too small, 34 is a bit oversize). I use 3/4 drive.
Release nut to be flush with the shaft end. Then use some blunt device applied to shaft end (I have also used the socket for that purpose ..)and hammer to release shaft from hub..the nut is flush with shaft tip, you will not hurt either shaft or nut..and you have about 1/4 inch free in play..
then jack car, remove wheel, remove nut, ...oh yeah, remove the eight bolts from 2 anti sway bar brackets (below) .then separate tie rod end and ball joint from strut and separate strut from shaft.

.. pulling shaft out from transmission is rather easy...pry out from side to side.. it will pop out rapidly.

(passenger side shown)

[yellowfiero]

Thanks LMP.

Everything went as planned. I couldn't use your through the wheel method of getting the nut off, because the socket wouldn't fit through the hole in the wheel, so I did it with the wheel off, putting a punch through the caliper into the disc. Thanks again.