To recall, or not recall... that is the question

[V_Dub_Wagon]

I have a 99 Accord EX with about 140k miles... Recently, I've been having what seems to be a common issue where it dies out while driving. Its also then hard to start. From what I've been able to dig up, it seems like it might be related to a bad ignition switch, which unfortunately, my car isn't qualified to have it replaced under recall. HOWEVER, I do qualify for the "Ignition Switch Interlock" recall. The Interlock one is where you can take the key out w/o the transmission being in park. Here comes the question...

Are they going to have to replace the ignition switch anyway as part of the Interlock recall? Is it worth taking it in just for that in hopes that they replace the whole shebang?

If not, I guess I'll have to dig some more to see what else is wrong w/ my otherwise reliable Honda...

[mpumas]

The electrical part is different but attached to the interlock/key part of the ignition switch module. The switch is not too expensive and if they are in there, replacing the switch is easy I think.

[somick]

They did the recall real fast on mine, probably in about 30 minutes: they have all the necessary tools and manuals on hand. I do not think you will have any problems with that. And this is safety after all!

But this is a mechanical part and the problem with dying is an electrical one. I also think, as mpumas mentioned, that this electrical part is attached to the ignition switch, so while they have it opened they could also replace the contacts as well. I would give it a try.

If you go this way, let us know how much the labor and parts are.

Sam

[FrankVtec88]

It may be the fuel pump relay, don't know if accords have one. I worked on couple of chevys that had the same symptoms, it was basicly a bad relay. Check if the relay overheats, and put a check light to the relay when the engine is running, then observe right when it dies if the light cuts out. Could be an overheating relay, but i dont know if this is how to fix accords.

[somick]

Originally Posted by FrankVtec88

It may be the fuel pump relay, don't know if accords have one. I worked on couple of chevys that had the same symptoms, it was basicly a bad relay. Check if the relay overheats, and put a check light to the relay when the engine is running, then observe right when it dies if the light cuts out. Could be an overheating relay, but i dont know if this is how to fix accords.

I have to agree with you!
The fact that it is hard to start when hot points out to main relay malfunction.
As far as I remember the previous generations of Accords were famous for that, not that one. But everything is possible.

Sam

[FrankVtec88]

So accords run with a main relay as opposed to a fuel pump relay? Or are they the same? I'm not an expert...i'm just a tire and lube guy who ends up doing lots of "free labour" work for senior technicians.

[mpumas]

The main relay in Hondas actually consists of two relays inside the one module. One relay powers the ECU and fuel pump and the other powers just the fuel pump. The problem with the main relay was in the early 90s and manifested itself when the passenger compartment got extremely hot, like sitting in the sun during the summer. The problem was not with the relays but with the solder joints between the relays and the mounting board. There are tests to determine if it is the main relay or the ignition switch and involve a voltmeter reading certain points to determine the absence of voltage. Or you can just turn on the ignition switch and listen for the fuel pump to run for a short time. If it runs, the main relay and the ignition switch is Ok. i.e. the ignition switch activates the main relay; the main relay activates the fuel pump.

[jeffcoslacker]

Originally Posted by mpumas

The main relay in Hondas actually consists of two relays inside the one module. One relay powers the ECU and fuel pump and the other powers just the fuel pump. The problem with the main relay was in the early 90s and manifested itself when the passenger compartment got extremely hot, like sitting in the sun during the summer. The problem was not with the relays but with the solder joints between the relays and the mounting board. There are tests to determine if it is the main relay or the ignition switch and involve a voltmeter reading certain points to determine the absence of voltage. Or you can just turn on the ignition switch and listen for the fuel pump to run for a short time. If it runs, the main relay and the ignition switch is Ok. i.e. the ignition switch activates the main relay; the main relay activates the fuel pump.

In our decidedly low-tech shop, sometimes I'd heat the suspect component thoroughly (Relay, module, coilpack, sensor, etc) with a heat gun or hair dryer with the motor otherwise cold.

If the malfunction occurred when I tried to start it, I knew I'd found my culprit...

[V_Dub_Wagon]

Well, for what its worth... the Interlock recall has to do with the shifter, so the labor doesn't overlap. I guess it was worth a shot...