Wheel Bearings

[soulmonger]

My 90 caprice handles horribly (my arms are constantly moving while driving to correct the steering). I am in the process of slowly replacing all worn out steering/suspension components. I have little experience with steering and suspension and I have never changed a wheel bearing before, at least not one like this (Ive replace an entire wheel hub that had a bearing inside it).

What i was wondering is is there just one bearing in there? So I would need a total of 2 bearings to do the front wheels? or are there two in each wheel, giving me a total of 4?

I think I know how to replace them despite having never done it. Pull the old ones, clean up area, pack new ones with grease, insert and reassemble. Is that about right?

EDIT: Both inner and outer tie rods have been replaced in the front. After the wheel bearings what else should I inspect to see if it needs replacing?

[Airjer_]

Upper/lower ball joints, control arm bushings, idler arm, pitman arm. Wheel bearings (unless the wheel is ready to fall of the spindle) generally do not cause the symptom you are describing.

[inafogg]

hello,yes there are 2 bearings in each wheel.you will get a new race w/ea. bearing good to replace them too.after you button up the front end rock the wheel side to side & up & down with front end jacked up this will tell if something else has excessive play.Good Luck

[Blue Bowtie]

Most people just clean, inspect, and repack them every 30,000 miles. If you find damage, replace the bearing and associated outer race. If there is no damage, repack them and reinstall. Torque the spindle nut to 20 ft/lb while rotating the wheel to displace teh grease and seat the bearings. Then back off the spindle nut, tighten by hand only. Tighten further to the very next position the cotter pin can be inserted, and lock the nut with the pin. I like to daub a little extra clean grease into the dust cap before installing it. If the spindle ever gets hot enough, the grease will run into the hub and provide some lubrication.

As for the loose steering, Airjer pretty much covered the prime suspects. The idler arms on these cars are always suspect, as they take a lot of load. If there is more than about 1/16" of vertical play in the idler arm/drag link, you might consider a new arm.

Upper and lower A-frame bushings are suspect after a lot of mileage and age.

[soulmonger]

I feel kinda dumb here. I have done engine swaps on other cars, I would consider my mechanical experience to be above average. But I have not idea what you guys are talking about when you say things like idler arms and whatnot. Basically I have no knowledge of steering and suspension at all... other than tie rods and ball joints. Anyone care to explain what parts you are actually talking about? Sorry for my ignorance.

Also I realize that wheel bearings don't really have much to do with steering and suspension unless they are completely gone, but I have had this car for 30,000+ miles and have never repacked them, nor do I know when they were last serviced with the previous owner. Thats why I want to replace them.

[j cAT]

you have to face reality...you need a lot more knowledge if you are gonna repair this...
IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT AN IDLER ARM IS ....DO NOT DO THIS...

you need a repair shop check out your front end ,, and doing so is a must as you will soon find yourself in a crash....

a bad alignment will cause poor steering control as well as worn steering/sway bar/springs/ and shocks....

bald tires also...

time to open the books and most likely your wallet....

[NOVAZ27]

Checkout the centerlink while you are at it. If your 90 caprice is like my 84 caprice the pitman arm & idler arm joints on the centerlink are worn. This becomes pronounced when the rear is loaded down making the front end feel lighter and the front wheels shake when you drive over uneven payment. (most roads in missouri). Autozone has the best price on the centerlink. As stated by jcat after the new components are installed "git er aligned" by someone who knows what they are doing.
If you have done engine swaps you should be able to do the suspension repair. Look the system over, become familar with the components. Read the manual if you have one. Go on the internet and search for forums such as "af" & others. Learning is a constant state of mind.

Novaz27

[463]

Originally Posted by j cAT

you have to face reality...you need a lot more knowledge if you are gonna repair this...
IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT AN IDLER ARM IS ....DO NOT DO THIS...

you need a repair shop check out your front end ,, and doing so is a must as you will soon find yourself in a crash....

a bad alignment will cause poor steering control as well as worn steering/sway bar/springs/ and shocks....

bald tires also...

time to open the books and most likely your wallet....

here is a gm link http://www.newgmparts.com/partlocato...aphicID=CA0120 click on the left side of the page for the parts and then on the view illustration for help and price.

[Blt2Lst]

Originally Posted by 463

here is a gm link http://www.newgmparts.com/partlocato...aphicID=CA0120 click on the left side of the page for the parts and then on the view illustration for help and price.

Does this site sell to the public?

[463]

yes they do. i some times run the part # to the gm parts and buy the part over the counter.

[soulmonger]

Thanks all for the suggestions. Now im just waiting for a warm day, which will hopefully be this weekend.

[NOVAZ27]

Checkout autozone or o'rielly's website for better prices. Most are usa made or canadian. I have had very good service life from the items i have bought from these parts houses. Money is money these days. Plus they usually have them in stock. A dealer will probably have to order the parts for you, 2-3 days, especially for parts for older vehicles.

Novaz27