no brake lights

[ronjon2009]

2000 chevy silverado. Tail and blinkers work. Bulbs are good. All the wiring looks clean. i'm trying to save the $90 diagnostic charge. I understand that there are a couple of switches to check, at the brake pedal and in the steering column. Is this true? Are there initial checks before I go tearing into the steering column?

[Yellow Snow]

Originally Posted by ronjon2009

2000 chevy silverado. Tail and blinkers work. Bulbs are good. All the wiring looks clean. i'm trying to save the $90 diagnostic charge. I understand that there are a couple of switches to check, at the brake pedal and in the steering column. Is this true? Are there initial checks before I go tearing into the steering column?

I had a 96 grand am that all of a sudden lost it's break lights. It was a small plastic nut that held the switch the break pedal pushes to engage the lights. I think it cost like $2.00.

I'm retarded when it comes to repairing vehicles and I was able to figure it out just by looking around behind the break pedal. Hope this helps.

[J-Ri]

The first thing to check any time anything doesn't work is fuses. If they're all good, check the brake switch. If that's good, you'll want to buy a repair manual for your truck so you have a wiring diagram to follow.

[sierra99]

Originally Posted by ronjon2009

2000 chevy silverado. Tail and blinkers work. Bulbs are good. All the wiring looks clean. i'm trying to save the $90 diagnostic charge. I understand that there are a couple of switches to check, at the brake pedal and in the steering column. Is this true? Are there initial checks before I go tearing into the steering column?

About 6 years ago my 99 silverado z71 had the same problem. I used a test probe and started to check everything. I found that my problem was a bad circuit board under the bed just behind the spare. There is one harness the feeds from the front (blue) and and then two connectors for each side harness, also one for the rear license plate lights. Take a look at that circuit board. Mine went bad at about 60k miles.

Take a test light and have somebody hit the brakes and make sure you can get your test light to come on testing the incoming wiring harness. Then plug in the harness back into the circuit board and then check the output.

Hope this helps

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by ronjon2009

2000 chevy silverado. Tail and blinkers work. Bulbs are good. All the wiring looks clean. i'm trying to save the $90 diagnostic charge. I understand that there are a couple of switches to check, at the brake pedal and in the steering column. Is this true? Are there initial checks before I go tearing into the steering column?

on the rear end of your vehicle is just behind the rear bumper is an interface circuit......this unit gets corroded...I suspect this is your problem....the wires going to the rear of vehicle will all go into this block..

using a meter see that the BRAKE voltage is good with the pedal held down...going into this unit...then you will know for sure whats bad..