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| Cavalier Problem Diagnosis Got a problem you can't fix? We can help. |
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#1
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ok. I am working on a 94 cavalier. The battery if left connected will be stone dead over night. If I charge it over night with the battery disconnected from the car it holds a charge just fine. As long as I unhook it from the car it holds a charge.
Now.... the clock on the radio never goes out. is it supposed too? I am suspecting the ignition switch. anybody had any experience with this problem and/or replaced the ignition switch? Thanks a bzillion.
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94 Safari 203000 miles 94 metro 310000 miles |
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#2
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Re: 94 Cavalier, good battery, goes dead, clock stay on
The clock should go out, but that alone wouldn't kill a good battery over night.
Connect an ammeter (preferably a clamp-on meter just because it's easier) on one of the battery cables. It should read .05A or less. When you find it's higher, pull the fuses one at a time until the reading drops to an acceptable level. Remember to remove any light bulbs that need to be on while testing (under hood, dome, glovebox, or whatever
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'04 Cavalier coupe M/T 2.2 Ecotec Supercharged 14 PSI boost, charge air cooler, 42# injectors Tuned with HP Tuners Poly engine/trans/control arm bushings Self built and self programmed progressive methanol injection system |
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#3
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Re: 94 Cavalier, good battery, goes dead, clock stay on
I connected my ammeter between the negative cable and post. with the radio fuse in I am seeing .25 amps. with the fuse out it's down to .01 amp. That doesn't seem like enough current to kill a battery over night. I think I may have a bad battery after all. I'm going to put it in my van for a couple days to see.
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94 Safari 203000 miles 94 metro 310000 miles |
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#4
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Re: 94 Cavalier, good battery, goes dead, clock stay on
0.250 amps (250 milliamps) is too much-- manufacturer's recommendation is no more than 50 ma-- A single relay will draw 150 ma and can cause a car not to start overnight-(been there, done that)- yours is more than that- so therein lies your problem- something on that circuit is on all the time-- have you added aftermarket equipment- like a new radio, some remote keyless entry modules, or a remote starter? how about lights, or charger connections- anything changed since this happened? Has anyone worked on it since this started?
Just some things to ponder- other than that, you need to start seperating wires on that circuit to finally find the draw. A good wiring diagram is essential.
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Automotive A/C Engineer with: '99 IH 4700 Toy Hauler (2) '95 GEO Prizms both maroon '99 GMC Yukon '95 Chev 3500, 454 Dually Crew Cab- 145k miles- Wife's Camel trailer puller. '94 Astro- 370k miles '94 Firebird Formula- 5.7L 180k miles- gone- '92 Chevy Lumina Van 3.8L 264k '86 GMC S-15 - 2.8L 154k '87 Buick Park Ave . 187k '86 Buick Park Ave 3.8L 199k miles- gone '77 Chevy Vega- 2.5L 175k miles gone but not forgotten '68 Camaro 396 4 spd RS/SS -72k miles- |
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