Greetings & a Question

[wrightz28]

Hey all,

Hopping over the blue bowtie side (once agin) and have a 2000 Explorer, 4.0.

The truck itself was a steal so i coudn't let it go, 114K miles, all the fluids were clean and for being above teh rust bealt of America, in over all great shape for a 9 year old truck. It had just pulled on the lot from being picked up at auction and i was determined to snatch it away from the "reserved buyer" who wasn't returning the dealer's calls.

Loving it so far, have to get a center arm rest, remove the blemishes being rust on the running step, and a pin hole oil leak from the left valve cover I have to look at when the temperature gets better.

Now, here's the question.

When I got the truck, the SES light was on, I had the dealer scan it, it came back with the right bank being lean and a couple of EVAP codes. On the EVAP codes, I don't like how the gas cap sits and believe that may be the couplret there.

I chalked the lean condition to a sloppy o2 for and had the code cleared, the engine runs fine.

Last night as soon as hit just about 200 miles since having the code cleared (and ironically buying gas in th morning) the SES light is back on. I just moved and for now do not have my tools (long story summed up with one word - divorce ). My question since i'm a little Ford ignorant is, with the SES light on, is the PCM in default mode? The poiwer seems to be up more since it's on. Also, like with GM's and Dodge, is there a way to extract the codes and reset the light with out a scanner? I

I see my old friends from the Taurus section, Way2old and Shorod are in the house so I know myself and everyone here is in good hands.

[shorod]

With OBD-II typically the system will not go into "Limp Home" unless the SES light is flashing. That's the "drive straight to the dealer" flash.

I've never heard of a way to pull codes in a Ford from the PCM without a scan tool. I was familiar with the odometer method in Chrysler, not familiar with a way in GMs. You may have to teach me that one.... Most of the chain auto parts stores will read OBD-II generic codes at no charge. Certainly try to get the actually powertrain codes though, not just their interpretation of the code.

As for the lean codes, if it was a P0171 and/or P0174, try searching the forum for those. There are a lot of posts related to them and the DPFE. A loose fuel cap (or leaking cap) can cause a SES as well.

-Rod

[wrightz28]

Thanks Rod, so I'm not missing out any tricks then. I question the cap because it only goes like a eigth of a turn and just doesn't seem to feel right.

[shorod]

That's about all the further the cap on my 2000 Mountaineer V8 goes as well. I had a code once that indicated a potential cap issue so I ordered a new cap. The original part number has been superceeded. But, before I received and installed the new cap, I had reset the codes and for 2 weeks the code never returned. I did go ahead and install the new cap. The new cap feels just like the original cap.

-Rod

[way2old]

Hey wrightz28. Good to see ya again. As Rod stated, there are no provisions to pull codes on Ford's that are OBDII compliant without a scanner. On the gas cap, if it clicks when you turn it, it is seated. We have used silicone paste to lubricate the seal and have had some luck with that. Or Vaseline works well. Had to say that since you just got divorced.

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by way2old

We have used silicone paste to lubricate the seal and have had some luck with that. Or Vaseline works well. Had to say that since you just got divorced.

No, I haven't reduced my self to standing at the check out lane with a pack of weiners and vaseline, don't think that will ever happen either.

It does not seem to click either so I'll take a look at it as I want to get a locking cap as well, cant believe a truck with all the bells and whisltes for toys does not have a locking filler door and my soon to be ex-FIL loves to mess with peoples cars, pretty juvenile.

[theoldwizard]

Originally Posted by wrightz28

I chalked the lean condition to a sloppy o2 for and had the code cleared, the engine runs fine.

Likely a vacuum leak.

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by theoldwizard

Likely a vacuum leak.

I would agree if the idle was higer than normal, however it idles smooth as silk @(600) in drive and around 1100 in park. I have seen this motor has a intake manifold issue so I will bear that in mind, however the engine bay is prestine minus the illusive valve cover leak on the left bank.

Otherwise, it does idle a little higher on start up during colder days until in loop, other than that just fine.

Also if I may ask, I've noticed a piston slap on colder days too, when initially started for the first few minutes. I assume as this is normal on GM's of the same era is this also common for Fords? My '92 Taurus (3.8) did the same on colder mornings but the motor was substantially older.

[wrightz28]

One onther thing I've come to notice, the A/C compressor is always cycling unless the heater control is turned in the off position? Yes I know it's supposed to be on when any defrost setting is on, but this is occuring when I select floor and main vent settings too?

[shorod]

Does you Explorer have the automatic climate controls or the manual ones?

-Rod

[wrightz28]

Manual.

[wrightz28]

No ideas Rod?

[shorod]

Short of getting out the wiring diagrams and checking to see if the climate control system is commanding the A/C compressor, I don't really have any ideas on the compressor turning on automatically. If you had the electronic controls I was going to suggest you put it in self-test mode. No such mode with the manual controls though. You have verified that the A/C clutch is engaging and it's not some relay you're hearing click, right?

The piston slap when cold, could that maybe be timing chain/tensioner noise? I seem to recall a TSB related to the timing chain on the 4.0L that could sound similar to piston slap. Way2Old may have some input on that.

-Rod

[wrightz28]

Hey thanks,

As my kids have learned to hate over time in their lives, my hearing far supersiedes the rest of my senses.

It is cycling. I stand outside and have my smoke while it warms up, something about every Ford I've owned, the interiors are too nice to smoke in Also, from time to time it seems the IAC gets sluggiish and the motor loads up a bit and starts to bog unitl the IAC catches up for a half second. Couple that a summer stint of A/C recharges for side cash, you know the sound of one when you hear it.

I seem to recall some systems cycle so long as the heater control is on when the freon level is low, so once this weather returns to the artic tundra where it belongs I'll investigate this further.

As to the slap, I'm 90% the rearmost cylinder on the right bank, however, Buick 3.8 motors had a similar timing chain issue and that could very well be acustically bouncing in the engine bay and make it seem that way.

[way2old]

Here is the TSB that Rod spoke of. We have had a knocking on cold start from Fords since 1984. We have not had any chain or tensioner failures because of it. Have you looked at the A/C relay to see if it may be hung on? Ford's have a really weak relay in them. Just a thought.



TSB 99-26-5 ENGINE - 4.0L SOHC - "KNOCKING" HEARD FROM LEFT HAND SIDE OF ENGINE AT START UP
NOISE - "KNOCKING" HEARD FROM LEFT HAND SIDE OF ENGINE AT START UP - VEHICLES WITH 4.0L SOHC

Publication Date: DECEMBER 14, 1999

FORD: 1997-2000 EXPLORER, MOUNTAINEER


ISSUE:
A "knocking" noise at start up for up to 2 minutes from the left hand front chain cassette area may occur on some vehicles. After engine shutdown, the tensioner oil supply gallery empties. The noise may be due to air entering the left hand tensioner when the engine is restarted.

ACTION:
Replace the left hand camshaft tensioner with a revised Tensioner Kit. Refer to the Instruction Sheet within the Tensioner Kit for service procedure details.

WARNING: THE XU2Z-6K254-AA TENSIONER KIT IS FOR INSTALLATION ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE ONLY. INSTALLATION OF THIS KIT ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE ENGINE MAY RESULT IN ENGINE FAILURE. IF A TENSIONER IS NEEDED FOR THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE ENGINE, USE KIT XU3Z-6K254-BA.



PART NUMBER PART NAME
XU2Z-6K254-AA Tensioner Kit - Left Side
XU3Z-6K254-BA Tensioner Kit - Right Side



OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
NONE

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
992605A Install Camshaft Tensioner Kit 1.6 Hrs.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
6K254 42

OASIS CODES:
497000, 702100


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Copyright © 1999 Ford Motor Company