Sway Bar

[Tempestshade]

I was just wondering exactly how much does a sway bar improve the handling of a stock 03 cavalier. Is it worth getting without any other mods?

These cars stock have poor handling so I am hoping that I can upgrade it abit so I don't have to slow to 50km/h when taking even the slightlest turn.

[Classicrocjunkie]

You'd get better handling with a full performance suspension set rather than a sway bar. Sway bars and strut tower bars are for fine tuning... It will help yes, but it won't be extremely noticeable.

[Tempestshade]

well if I were to go for a full suspension kit, are there any full kits available, and if so, what are the prices. Low and high, as long as they improve my handling.

[Classicrocjunkie]

Tein SS Coilovers with pillow ball mounts - $1,500

KYB AGX and eibach Prokit - ~$650-700.


The eibach is about the cheapest quality that you can get. I had it and loved it.

[Tempestshade]

Would a price of around ~$300 for the eibach Pro-kit springs be about right? I could not find the KYB AGX on their site.

[Classicrocjunkie]

KYB AGX adjustable struts

Eibach Prokit Springs

Buy both of those, you'll love it. Lowers the car 1.4" all around which is a good drop and lets the car still be driveable around stupid shit like speed bumps. I was able to make speed bumps with a body kit and everything...

Couple pics of the stance..

On the 2004 Sunfire..





Then on the 99 sedan with 2000 front end conversion and type-j body kit...





I could take exit off ramps which post 34-40 at 60 and not think other wise. Car kept level through the corners. Rims are 18" with 3" lip and 225/40-18 rubber.

[Tempestshade]

Nice, Thanks alot for your help.

My car is pretty much stock right now, I am just displeased that my fathers Ford Ranger can corner better than my car can, which just doesn't seem right to me(even though it makes sense :P)

I am hoping to get these pretty cheap as I work at Ford so I will most likely just have to pay cost + 10%.

I have also been reading that instead of the KYB AGX struts, that the KYB GR-2 would also be suitable. Is this myth, or is it just because the stock struts on cavalier's suck?

I am most likely going to go with the AGX's, but I am just going to keep my options open.

Thanks again,
David

[Tempestshade]

Also, while I am asking questions, what is the max size of tire I can fit onto my car if I drop it with those springs?

I assume 18" sinse they are on your car. What are the downfalls of going with an 18"?

[Classicrocjunkie]

KYB GR-2's are stock replacements which are not valved properly to handle higher spring rates. They will ultimately in time fail, but some people are getting by on them with H&R spring or a spring that drops the car only 1.0" or so. AGX's are warrantied up to a drop of 1.5"s.. the Prokit is 1.4".

Largest wheel is certain 20"s. with 215/30-20 tire size. This combo looks retarded tho unless your on air bags.

18"s I feel are a good rim size as they fill out the wheel well and give you better handling. The thinner side wall tires also have less roll to them when you corner because its less rubber to give and flex. Stock wheels are only a 195 series and my 15" steel tires were 6"s wide. The wheels above were 2"s wider than stock and on a 225 wide rubber. More contact to the pavement.

Only downfall to larger wheels is that they are almost always heavier unless you can afford some forged wheels. Heavier wheels will kill brakes faster.

[mexiNAMEDsqueak]

Yeah, I have an 03 cavalier too... the handling sucks quite a bit. If I lower my car and kept the stock tires/rims would I still get noticeable performance improvements?

[Classicrocjunkie]

Yes, just don't put lowering spring on stock struts...

If your going to do it, do it right with parts that are meant for performance.

[bigd2374]

why spend so much money on 18's u look like you r driving on rubber bands. id say 16 at the biggest cause you would still have less roll with a smaller sidewall but you would have enough to cushion the bumps in the road making your suspension last alot longer and having less wear on the car itself.

[Classicrocjunkie]

Originally Posted by bigd2374

why spend so much money on 18's u look like you r driving on rubber bands. id say 16 at the biggest cause you would still have less roll with a smaller sidewall but you would have enough to cushion the bumps in the road making your suspension last alot longer and having less wear on the car itself.

1) You've clearly never rode in a car with an aftermarket performance suspension nor have enjoyed spirited driving or Autocross. If your looking for comfort, these aftermarket suspensions have adjustable dampening for a reason. You control the car to your likings for Daily driving, and then when you go to the track you can crank it all the way hard.

This is what I am running. TEIN Super Street Coilovers with their Electronic Dampening Force Controller (EDFC - Allows adjustability from inside my car without having to pop the hood or anything.)



2) The stock suspension and braking in these cars were not designed for spirited driving or having a little fun with the cars. They were produced to be nothing more than economy cars for their fuel mileage.

3) 16" wheels being the max? Smallest I would ever go would be a 17" wheel and that would be for race/drag purpose only. I've been through a set of stock 16" Z24 wheels, a set of 17" aftermarket BBS style rims, and then have settled in with the 18" wheels. The difference between a 205/55 and 225/40 tire is more than you think.
-When I put my eibach prokit and KYB AGX suspension on my sunfire last summer before I sold the suspension I ran it with the car's stock 15" alloy wheels. While the handling was greatly improved, I wouldn't even consider doing what I do when I have my 18"s on there.
-The 18"s I have above are now sold as I am purchasing a set of Forged 18"s as the only issue with larger wheels is the weight. Those above weighed 26lbs without rubber. Forged wheels I am looking at are coming in at 17lbs a wheel.

4) Find someone local with a quality performance suspension and ask them to take you for a ride. I'm sure it will help you understand where I am coming from in all this. But if your just looking at keeping a car for normal daily routines of commuting to work and not customizing a car, then stay clear away from all this as these parts aren't cheap.

[Tempestshade]

How much HP are you pushing out of each car may I ask? And how much did you spend to achieve that goal?

[Classicrocjunkie]

The sunfire is pretty much stock as it is my daily driver... Only has intake and motor mounts.

The sedan went from a 2.2 OHV push rod automatic with every bolt on possible put down 121whp N/A.

Its now a Supercharged 2.2L DOHC Ecotec with a 5 speed - 244whp 249tq w/ 3.0" pulley

Supercharger - $2,700
Heat exchanger and plumbing - $400
Motor swap & Trans - $1,165 (bare parts and wiring for car)
Bully Stage 4 clutch - $670
Limited Slip Differential Insert - $250
Ecotec Balance shaft delete kit - $250


Thousands and thousands more than the car is actually worth. But hey its a 99 with only 40K miles and a motor that's not even suppose to be in there. Ha ha...

Full build list can be found here... http://www.j-body.org/members/classicrocjunkie