How to replace brakes on 2001 GT?

[tcestes]

My breaks are starting to go out on my 01 GT. How difficult is it to replace them myself? Assuming the rotors don't have to be turned or replaced. Any special tools needed? Anyone have a good how-to writeup?

[doctorhrdware]

It is very easy to do, make sure that you do not hang the caliper by the brake hose it will either break or cause leaks.

[CrazyHorst]

Personally, I've never gotten good results from changing just the brake pads and leaving the rotors alone on several vehicles.

I have done this for economy reasons/pads getting low and lived with the pulsating brake pedal if it wasn't out of control.

I also have never had good results getting rotors turned. The reduced cross-section and reduced mass (even if fully inside the wear-limit thickness spec) seems to warp twice as fast.

And, if the pedal isn't pulsating, the new friction pad will almost certainly have a slightly different dimension that doesn't fit in the shiny spot worn in the current rotor.

So...that said, if I am going to do this "right", I'm going to buy rotors, pads, and power-flush the system to get rid of old contaminated brake fluid.

You need a 15mm socket preferably with a long handle. I used a green synthetic Permatex "brake caliper lube" bought at Advance auto to lubricate where the pads and calipers touch each other as well as the "ears" on the calipers. Keep the stuff off the friction surfaces. It cannot damage the rubber dust boot on the caliper.

There are two special bolts which mount the caliper, 15mm hex. I sacrifice a tie-wrap and tie the caliper to the strut-spring, cutting it off later. If you have to remove the rotor, an "arch" has to come off, this requires two more 15mm bolts to be removed.

The rotor is then possibly held on to one wheel-lug-stud with a single "star" washer or perhaps this has already been removed. Sometimes a persuader is necessary to get the brake rotor off the hub if there is corrosion behind it.

Care should be taken with the brake hoses as recommended but sleep tight that they are *incredibly* tough when brand-new. I have seen several instances where a single front brake hose lifted the entire cradle/engine/trans/driveshafts/front hubs assembly up in the air during "unexpected manufacturing activity".

Brake "conservatively" when the new surfaces are green to slowly break them in and break any "glaze". I just use lighter pedal pressure for a tank of gas or two.

My GTP has had 3 sets of pads and rotors on it in its life, GM put on the first set, I put on the 2nd set for my brother (Napa parts he brought me). And I reverted back to Delco parts for the latest change a few weeks back.

I use the Motive Products 1-man bleeder, it requires adapter # 1108 for the late model Grand Prixes. I bought this some time back from Summit Racing although I believe it can also be purchased direct.

[CrazyHorst]

Couple of things I thought about overnight related to this subject.

Crack the bleeder fitting(s) loose with a 6 point x 10mm socket. This prevents them from getting rounded over. You can then do bleeding with a regular open end/box end wrench which usually has a 12 point internal hex. It is not that the ratchet can't be used but having to take the time to switch the ratchet mechanism is irritating plus can't easily be used when there is a short piece clear of "bleeder tube" attached to the barb on the bleeder screw.

Also I recall the cautionary tale of an acquaintance who installed $65 brake pads after griping about the $85 GM pad set (which he had gotten 75,000 miles out of). Interestingly he was replacing the pads ~15,000 miles later.

The "arch" I referred to above is actually a cast iron part which holds/locates the brake pads. There are a pair of little stainless steel folded-metal parts which actually touch the ears of the pads and put light spring pressure on them to keep them from squeaking.

I use a Valvoline "synthetic" brake fluid which is DOT 3 and DOT 4 compatible...the master cylinder cap specifically calls for DOT3. IMHO always buy a new bottle and discard the old stuff (or save the bottle for the old fluid).

Reason: brake fluid is "hygroscopic" which means it attracts water to the point of pulling it out of the air on a humid day. This lowers the boiling point of the fluid (important for performance) and the water eventually causes rust & corrosion inside the brake system which is also bad. The fluid is handled very carefully to the point of having dessicant cartridges for air intake on a tote-sized container.

[rkvons]

It would also be a good idea to get a C-clamp that you will need to push the caliper piston back into the caliper. It comes out further and further as the brake pad wears down and does not go back by itself.

[rev2red]

good point Rkvons...reset the piston by placing the old pad over the cal. piston and use a big set of pilars too apply even pressure to the piston, dont add any fluid to the master cylinder because it shows fluid low, the level will go back to full after resting the piston! good luck