IMRC stuck open 1998 3.8

[GregDM]

IMRC stuck open on my van. I have narrowed it down to the solenoid that controls the vacuum to the actuators.
My problem is how do I remove the solenoid? I read that it just snaps into place. Not sure if that's accurate.

[GregDM]

I figured it out. The solenoid has a integral plastic clip on it's backside that has to be slightly expanded, then push downward on the solenoid and it comes free easily. No more P1537 & P1538. Actuators are working again. I'm ready for the Emissions test finally!

[MOM OF FIVE]

Hi. I have a 98 Ford Windstar with a 3.8L with the CEL and three codes P1537 P1538 and P0147 (I think)
A friend advised me to change the little plastic pieces and I did. I erased the codes drove about 70 miles and the light came back on this time with just one code, P1537. I did the check where I took the lines from the top of each IMRC one of the vacuum lines has strong suction and the other has none. Also when I cover the one with the strong suction the rod from the opposite moves. Does anyone have any suggestions.
Thanks.

[GregDM]

For me it turned out to be the Solenoid that controls the vacuum to the two acuator's.
The acuators rods will move with your engine running somewhere above 3000rpm. If they don't move. Your solenoid is bad. It's a dealer part. Cost about $45.00

[MOM OF FIVE]

Was your problem the same as mine? Would the solenoid allow only vacuum on one side if they both are connected to the same? Also can to tell me exactly where it is and was it hard to get to? I could take it to a shop but I have a feeling they will try to stiff me on this one because one mechanic that pointed me in this direction said around $700 bucks. Also if all else fails, know of any "quick fixes" to get thru emissions?

[GregDM]

This is a common part that fails. No quick fix for this . You have to remove the window wipers, then the cowel. ( plastic cover) to have room to get at the solenoid. It's an easy job really. The solenoid is mounted on the engine middle left. Small black plastic part with square top and two blue colored vacuum hoses. It's clipped on to the engine side. You have to put downward pressure on it to come off. I put my digital camera back there and took all sorts of pictures, then downloaded them on my computer so I can see what I was looking for. Total time to do this job is 3 hours for us amatuers. Do you have an e-mail I can send pictures of the part to you.

[MOM OF FIVE]

That would be great! Pictures would definitely help. Thanks
[email protected]

[wiswind]

1996 -1998 should use a separate vaccum driven actuator for each bank.
The 1999 and newer uses 1 electrical actuator for BOTH banks.

On the vaccum version.....the 2 actuators share the same vaccum source......and one can leak....robbing both of their vaccum.


From what you are saying.....when you removed 1 line and had NO (or very little) suction....the one still plugged in is most likely your leaker.
I would verify this by....still with the no suction line disconnected....finger over the end.....use your other hand to disconnect the other actuator and put your finger over the end of that line......if this gives you suction in both lines......then what I said above is correct.

If not.....you may have a crack or pinch in the vaccum line.

The actuators are pricey....and there was a thread on here a while back about an aftermarket version not being compatible with the electronics of the windstar (still gave CEL and IMRC fault codes).
For this reason...one might be best to stick with OEM, even though your wallet will be lighter.

Use care when handling these as there is a diaphram in there that can crack.....which is what causes the leaking.

[Freakzilla69]

I have mine wired shut with with aluminium #18 AWG wire.

Fixed.

[wiswind]

Wiring shut is OK until you romp on the accellerator.....and they don't open when expected....which will light the CEL.
If you live in an area that does emission testing the CEL (and the code(s) that they get when they connect to the OBDII port) will keep you from passing the emissions test.

Now the electrical version.....might get away with them being disconnected from the actuator....but not with the vaccum actuator....springs hold them open.....and the actuator pulls them closed......the electrical sensor is a part of the actuator(s).

Stuck open will cause more drivability problems than stuck closed.
If only 1 is stuck....then you end up with an unballanced condition between the front and rear banks of cylinders.

[MOM OF FIVE]

Hello Mr. Wiswind, How are you?
let me start by saying thanks for your help. I performed the test....with thumb over one with little to no suction and then doing the same over the other and I did get the suction in both. So it is the one closest to the wipers(that's the right one I think) Now I know exactly which one to replace. Thanks a bunch!

[MOM OF FIVE]

Ok. I think I've done something so wrong! I replaced the IMRC with a used one and it seems that I have made the problem worst. instantly when I start the engine the rods move up when I rev the engine they move down. I don't no if that's the way they are supposed to move. The van is running rough and acting like it wants to cut off. I did the test again.. taking the vacuum off and again no vacuum on one line.... I'm so confused!

[wiswind]

With no vaccum (with motor OFF) springs in the IMRC pull them OPEN....and hold them open.
When you start the engine.....vaccum is applied to the actuators pulling both shafts to the closed position and holds them closed.
At a certain RPM....(around 2900 on my '96....I read someplace that it is different on some other years) the PCM sends a signal to the electrical valve (IMRC solenoid) in the vaccum line to close and interrupt the vaccum to the IMRC actuators.....causing them to OPEN.

I am NOT big on reving the motor to check on this....and there may be other drivability factors involved in the PCM deciding to send the signal other than just RPM.
So.....I would just worry about them moving between the motor OFF to the motor ON at idle.

You might have another problem causing the rough idle.
Verify that the vaccum lines to the actuators are in good condition....not broken.

Could your replacement actuator have a ruptured diaphram?....yes, it is possible.

Another thing to remember is that the PCM will hold a failure code for a certain number of drive cycles without any failure before clearing the failure code and turning the CEL OFF.
So....the CEL and stored failure code will normally remain AFTER you have solved the problem until the PCM sees that it is not there for a while of driving.

[Freakzilla69]

Originally Posted by wiswind

Wiring shut is OK until you romp on the accellerator.....and they don't open when expected....which will light the CEL.
If you live in an area that does emission testing the CEL (and the code(s) that they get when they connect to the OBDII port) will keep you from passing the emissions test.

That's my problem, I think both are bad. I keep getting a lean code with them wired open, can't remember the exact number.

I ordered them from Rockauto along with enough other parts to qualify for the waiver if I don't pass... so I've got that going for me. But hopefully it will pass now.

[wiswind]

You don't want to wire them OPEN....as you will have drivability problems at the lower RPMs (as you are having).
If you wire them CLOSED, all you loose is the high RPM boost.

Again..... on the 1996 through 1998, the springs hold them OPEN......vaccum pulls and holds them CLOSED.
If only 1 side is closed, then you have a unballanced situation between the 2 banks of cylinders, and the PCM will not be happy with that.