what the best way to clean...

[jbjslambert]

1997 leabre. cleaning of the MAP,MAF and air control valve. i replaced my wires and plugs and got rid of a bump in my idle but now idle seems ever so slight vibration in it, can feel in the steering wheel. other than that very resposive running car. oh and btw i replaced some bad vaacum lines while back so that should be good but i will reinspect all. thanks joe

[BNaylor]

For the MAF sensor wire element best to use MAF spray cleaner like the CRC brand. Best not to touch the wire element and thermistors.

IAC you can use MAF spray cleaner or throttle body spray cleaner. Also, be sure to clean out the seat where the IAC mounts on the throttle body using throttle body spray cleaner.

On the MAP sensor just clean any possible oil residue off with a paper towel or Q-tip. I would not use any cleaner on it.

[imidazol97]

Originally Posted by jbjslambert

1997 leabre. cleaning of the MAP,MAF and air control valve. i replaced my wires and plugs and got rid of a bump in my idle but now idle seems ever so slight vibration in it, can feel in the steering wheel. other than that very resposive running car. oh and btw i replaced some bad vaacum lines while back so that should be good but i will reinspect all. thanks joe

For the final roughness Try a good fuel system cleaner in a required amount of fuel. I found both of my cars smoothed out when I used it last week. It had been several months since I had run any through. I happen to use Techron Fuel System Cleaner by Chevron from Walmart or Advance Auto. Autozone has 12 oz bottles to treat 12 gallon free with a coupon for 1 or two. Don't put in fuel to total over 12 gallons to get effect of cleaning. Good through Feb 12

coupon here:
http://www.autozone.com/images/in_ou...on_0115_09.pdf

and take a look at the motor while idling neutral and in gear. Try your hand on the motor. Try feeling some of the hoses like heater and power steering that go to or near the firewall. See if they are transmitting vibration because of their positioning or because they have hardened. Sometimes in reverse these can transmit more vibration and you feel it even more.

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by imidazol97

Autozone has 12 gallon bottles free with a coupon for 1 or two. Don't put in fuel to total over 12 gallons to get effect of cleaning. Good through Feb 12

Just to clarify, this should be 12oz bottles that will treat 12-gal of gas.

[jbjslambert]

on the MAF cleaning, can i do it while running or take off the sensor and clean while off the car? will run some fuel system cleaner through it, thanks joe

[BNaylor]

Remove the MAF and clean it off car. There should be be two Torx T20 tamper proof screws holding it to the throttle body so you will need the T20 tamper proof bit.

[Hapynzap]

Why cant you just remove the screen and spray the MAF with some electronic parts spray or brake cleaner?

This is why I do not advocate k&N air filters

As far as the AIC you may have to take the throttle body off to clean up all the gunk on the throttle plate from the EGR anyways

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by Hapynzap

Why cant you just remove the screen and spray the MAF with some electronic parts spray or brake cleaner?

As long as you have the proper Torx T20 TP bit (right tools) isn't removing the MAF sensor easier especially if you plan on cleaning the rest of the throttle body or versus removing the rubber air duct and TB screen? The problem with regular electrical contact and brake parts cleaner is they may be too abrasive or leave some residue. Electrical contact cleaner is better suited for heavier electrical/electronic components not a sensitive MAF sensor. MAF spray cleaner is specially formulated for MAF sensor cleaning and does not leave any residue, period. Most brake parts cleaners are not really plastic safe either.

[jbjslambert]

picked up some MAF cleaner, uhm, the IAC is under the TPS right? didnt want to take out the TPS by mistake cause it has to be "clocked" right? 97 lesabre. thanks, Joe.
I am going to do this tomorrow, going to take pics as i do it, might help some fellow do it yourselfers that have never fooled with this before, like me,lol

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by jbjslambert

picked up some MAF cleaner, uhm, the IAC is under the TPS right? didnt want to take out the TPS by mistake cause it has to be "clocked" right?

See pic below. My pic and HotZ28 did the labeling. And good luck!

[jbjslambert]

thanks for the pic, so i see someone has been at the IAC before cause the screws have been replaced with regular head screws. btw my temp sensor is on the firewall side of the tube next to the strut tower. strange, huh? Joe

[jbjslambert]

any ideas on getting those torx screws out with a non "secure" torx bit (without the hole in it)

[imidazol97]

Originally Posted by HotZ28

Just to clarify, this should be 12oz bottles that will treat 12-gal of gas.

Z28 is exactly right. I'm used to thinking of it as the 12 gallon size because it treats 12 gallons and the 20 gallon size that treats 20 gallons. The cardboard on the bottle neck has a big 12 or big 20 on it.

I didn't mean to mislead anybody!

[usedranger]

you should be able to find a small set of torx/security bits at Autozone, Sears or other tool outlets for a reasonable price. Buy the tool Vs having a shop do it; many times buying the tool is cheaper, and you get to keep it! Or ask around, some other DIYer may already have a set...

[imidazol97]

Originally Posted by jbjslambert

any ideas on getting those torx screws out with a non "secure" torx bit (without the hole in it)

I picked up a set of the torx security bits at Harbor Freight stores.