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#1
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Removing iron torque-strut/coil pack bracket on L67
I have the nut off the very long stud, I have the stud/bolt with the ground wire out.
The bracket is not free, there appears to be a torx stud centered on the supercharger belt tensioner pivot point....is that my last fastener? Reasons for removing this are twofold...change the radiator outlet hose plus also have to change the A/C compressor below that. I need more room to work!
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1988 Chevy R-30 1 ton DRW pickup (217k) 1991 Chevy S-10 4WD pickup (192k) 2000 Grand Prix GTP (218k) 2002 GMC Yukon (185k) 2009 G8 - GT (46k) |
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#2
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Re: Removing iron torque-strut/coil pack bracket on L67
Yes, I dont think its a stud. I think it is a bolt with a stud on it. If I remember right I needed a deep 1/2 socket to fit on it becuase the 3/8's deep socket couldnt reach the bolt head.
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-2000 Grand Prix GTP 170,000mi (daily driver) -2000 Olds Alero 100,000mi (soon to be DD with gas at $3.45/gal) -1997 Chev K1500 4x4 115,000mi (Natalie's truck [nans_grandprix]) AF "2.0" Community Guidelines Conservative Victory 2012!!! "I'll Keep my Guns, Freedom, and Money. You can Keep the Change!" ----->>>>> Did You Know? <<<<<----- |
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#3
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Re: Removing iron torque-strut/coil pack bracket on L67
Thanks for the info...there's a 15mm stud-bolt, a 15mm flanged hex nut on an extra-long stud (must be commonized from another carline as theres ~1-1/2" of excess), and a 13mm hex nut centered on the pivot point for the SC belt tensioner. Deep sockets all around.
Also useful info is that the 7mm hex on the coil pack multi-plug must be disconnected. The wiring harness is tight enough and traps the cast iron bracket such that it can't clear the long studs. And...it does make removal of the lower rad hose and the A/C compressor a snap. These two could probably be done without it...but a lot more curse words necessary !!
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1988 Chevy R-30 1 ton DRW pickup (217k) 1991 Chevy S-10 4WD pickup (192k) 2000 Grand Prix GTP (218k) 2002 GMC Yukon (185k) 2009 G8 - GT (46k) |
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