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#1
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Universal Joint Diagnosis and replacement
I just finished replacing the u-joints on my 1995 S10 pickup, 2wd, 5-speed manual 224,000 miles, and thought I would post my experience to help others.
Probably 6 months ago at least I started noticing a droning or humming coming from the rear end at highway speeds. I thought maybe it was a wheel bearing, so I checked the wheels and everything seemed OK. Turned the radio up a little louder and ignored it. In the last month or so It felt like the truck was running rough or something, a little vibration and louder. Than in the last couple weeks the vibration got worse, especially during acceleration and between 35-50 mph, I heard squeaking at take-off, and occasional clunks. I also heard a ting at all speeds which sounded like when your exhaust cools off. After doing some searches here I was pretty sure it was a u-joint issue. Now on to the repair. I have a regular cab short bed - 1 piece driveshaft - 2 u-joints. I was in need of a new vise anyway, so I bought big 5" vise at Harbor Freight Tools, planning to press the old u-joints out with it. It wasn't big enough. By the time you put the driveshaft and the two sockets together you are talking 8.5 to 9 inches. I had used a ball joint press from Autozone to replace my ball joints a year or so ago and thought it might work for this also. (Loan a tool, put it on a credit card and take it back when you're done, free, awesome deal) Note: I use an impact wrench with it, I wouldn't want to have to do it with hand tools. This worked great, but I still had to heat up the caps to melt the plastic before they would break free. (Even though my Haynes manual said they could just be pressed out, maybe with a big enough press I guess). Assembly was going ok until one of the needle bearings must have tipped over and I blew the end out of one of the caps. Bought a replacement and started over, only $10 at least. I had a tough time getting the second snap ring in on the axle end of the driveshaft and it was moving much stiffer than the transmission end. I installed it anyway and went for a test drive, The vibration was gone, but there was a horrendous squeak at all speeds. Long story short, the yoke was to tight on the caps on the axle end. I ended up grinding the inside of the yoke evenly on each side, to open it up a little more for the snap rings. It went together fine and move easier than before (With another new ujoint), and all vibrations, squeaks and clunks have disappeared. |
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#2
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Re: Universal Joint Diagnosis and replacement
Good info, thanks. I have a 96 2.2, 2WD, 5spd S10 and I'm getting ready for U-joints too. Sounds like a pain, maybe I'll take it somewhere.
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#3
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Re: Universal Joint Diagnosis and replacement
Quote:
the squeaking in take off is what I have always found to be the drive shaft U joints...every time... when removing the old you must heat the joint caps till the plastic bubbles then hook up press and push/hammer out... when the new U joint locking clips won't go in you have bent the yoke, it must be bent back . I use a bolt/washer/stud and force the metal back to the proper position...use a little heat ....I don't recommend any grinding.... before anything is done mark the drive shaft and install exactly as it was...on install........... |
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#4
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Re: Universal Joint Diagnosis and replacement
Quote:
When installing u joints many people make the mistake of pressing/driving the cap to tight up against the cross. If the drag when turning joint they are to tight. Always take a blunt punch on the center of cross and drive the cap back out against the spap ring on all 4 caps.
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Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems. MT |
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