Oil Pump replacement

[Nepato]

Hi,

I've come to the conclusion that this weekend I am going to change my oil pump in my 94 Rodeo 3.2L. The oil pressure is way too low when idling and basically acts like a Tachometer when i drive it. Im going to replace it b4 something bad happens.
Anyways, I got the Haynes manual on how to replace it, but I was wondering if any of you who had done this b4 had any tips to give me before I start. I know the oil pan must be dropped. In the repair manual it says to use gasket RTV as sealant on the oil pump and also oil pan. But at autozone they also sell a gasket kit for both of those? Can I just use the RTV? Also, will I need any special tools besides the obvious wrenches and sockets? Will I have to remove both wheels like it says in the manual? Also, it mentioned something about the timing belt being removed. Can I just install a new belt without changing any of the pulleys or idler?
Anyways sorry for all the questions, i just need some advice from anyone who has done this before. Thanks

[Ramblin Fever]

How do you know 100% it's the oil pump? I've NEVER heard of one failing on the 3.2L V6's....it's generally the oil pump sensor, weak oil viscosity, bad oil filter, and one also needs to keep in mind, the oil pressure gauge is simply a *dummy* gauge. What it shows or doesn't show is NOT accurate.

You really need to use a good reputable oil gauge to get an accurate reading....definitely something I would do before tearing into the oil pump.

You probably won't get many responses on this, because, for as long as I've owned my Rodeo, 12yrs, I've never heard of anyone having to perform this procedure.

If you are removing the timing belt, and it is the original belt...then yes, everything; i.e. timing belt rollers, timing belt tensioner, waterpump, etc will need to be replaced, otherwise, it could bite you back in a few weeks when it all goes south. If all that stuff is as old as the truck, it DEFINITELY needs replaced.

But I would get a 2nd opinion on the oil pump...it's just not heard of, unless the truck's been neglected and driven with thick, black oil for long durations.

[Nepato]

Thats some good info about the oil pumps not usually being changed on these 3.2's. I called autozone and they wanted $185 for just the pump!

well im not 100% sure on that. I kinda just had the feeling and at work talked to a mechanic and described my situation. Well what happend was I just bought the truck and I did notice the oil pressure low on the guage. The guage fluctuates with my tachometer. But when cruising it usually stays at about 55 psi when at about 2k rpm. However, when i idle the oil guage sits down to about a little past zero. and as I accelerate the oil guage increases, then drops down when the engine shifts or I stop to idle. But the thing that was worrying me was that sometimes when im sitting there idling, the engine kinda shutters like it about to die. But as soon as I give it gas it goes back to being smooth. This also happens if lets say Im crusing at about 55mph just barely touching the gas and when I give it some gas real quick to merge then it also shutters but quickly returns to normal.

What I have done is change the spark plugs, new oil & filter, new fuel filter, and I cleaned out the PCV valve.

I also got a suggestion from someone that it could be ignition related? and that chaning the spark plug wires might help?

Thats where I got the suggestion also that it might be my oil pump about to go. And according to this guy he said that the oil pressure should be constant and not flutuate like it does.

Another quick thing also I forgot to mention. I made a post about this but got no reply. My turn signal switch for some reason messes with a few thing when i flip it on. When i flip the signal on, the windshield wipers turn on and also sometimes the speedometer fluctuates in syncro with the turn signal?!
So to counteract the wipers being on, i unplug the wiper fuse and then plug it in if it rains. But I dont know maybe the guage on the oil pump could be somehow crossing over with the tachometer?

Anyways any help would be greatly appreciated. Im gonna hold off on the oil pump now that I have a second opinion. It would be nice if it was just something minor.

Thanks

[Florsuzo]

If your oil pump were bad or failing chances are your engine would have seized already or it would be excessively noisy. Oil pumps tend to wear out slowly over time and the most obvious symptom is low oil pressure at all RPMs (which could also be explained by bad bearings and other worn parts too).

My oil gauge does exactly the same as yours depending on the engine temperature and outside temperature.

The electrical issues your describe could be caused by a poor charging system (i.e. alternator failing). Bad alternators can cause all kinds of odd symptoms that seeming are unrelated.

[Cat Fuzz]

I've never seen an engine operate with constant oil pressure. Oil pressure ALWAYS varies depending on engine RPM.

[Nepato]

Originally Posted by Cat Fuzz

I've never seen an engine operate with constant oil pressure. Oil pressure ALWAYS varies depending on engine RPM.

Ya your right it makes sense, he mighta ment something else?
Anyways, i think im sorta leaning towards possibly a electrical problem sense I have other problems with guages. However, the battery guage always shows a nice charge. I thought i would also add that my gas guage is also not working. Its stuck in the past FULL mark. I guess it pretty common with the rodeos from what ive read on these forums.

Im really leaning towards a possible alternator or crossed wires problem.

Also, would the EGR valve possibly cause these rough idles and shutters apon quick acceleration? I think i may try to clean it out with carb cleaner.

Thanks

[Nepato]

Oh, i thought i would add if it help any. The rough idle only happens when the truck is in DRIVE when i pop it into Neutral or Park the RPMs jump up a bit to smooth the rough idle.