Does your Windstar do this after fans turn off?

[searcherrr]

Video: The "almost stall" my van does viewed from the dashboard. Believe me if I videoed the engine its a lot more dramatic than it seems in the cabin.

Best way to view this is to right click the link, save it somewhere you won't forget it, and play it from your computer.

http://www.thinkrolland.com/images/e...003smaller.wmv

In the cabin it seems and feels like the engine is about to quit running, but always catches back up to stay running.

Does your Windstar do this idle dip & "almost stall" when the Rad fans turn off?

All you gotta do is watch your RPMs gauge for me after seeing my video and see if your van does the same thing and post back.

You'll know your fans are on if you use the A/C and just turn it off right after so the fans will go off a few moments after that.

OR

You could sit there without the A/C on until your temp gauge gets up between "R" and "M" and then the fans will kick on and shortly after turn off.

It is at the moment they turn OFF that I would like to know if your idle dips like mine does and then waivers subtly continually after that.

Does everybody's do this?

It would help if you know your IAC is in good shape too. Basically, I'm looking to see if this is normal behavior for Windstars or not. No other car I've driven does this though.

[tripletdaddy]

I thought I told you this before, but often I have tried to send something and then the computer locks up, etc., etc., errrr!!!

I have tried the ac, defrost, hot engine, turn the steering wheel stop to stop, and forced the fans on by disconnecting the ECT, but have had no appreciative and an almost undectable dip and subsequent increase in rpm in responce to the above loads and unloads on both my 95 Windstar and 95 Taurus, both with 3.8l engines. No wavering afterwards. Oh, BTW, I'll mention it here, sometimes the ac on mine will for the very first time the clutch engages after starting the van, it clacks on pretty loud but it is followed with a rough, almost growl like sound. After that it's fine. AC is all original, TTBOMK, with 145k miles. I imagine with you being in Louisianna, you probably use your AC twice as much as I do here in VA.

I'm reposting my post to your other thread for the reader's benefit on the IAC.

You said the rpms will bob up and down and it will try to stall when warmed up and turning the wheels left to right. So I've been told and have read here, this is typical behavior of an IAC not working. It's supposed to control the amount of air flow that bypasses the closed throttle valve at idle. The PCM sends a voltage signal to it to move the IAC valve more or less open when needed to increase or decrease the intake air when the idle decreases or increases due to increasing or decreasing loads on the engine, all respectively. It sounds like your IAC actuator, probably a solenoid, isn't moving the valve open enough or moving at all. Before all testing, it is recommended to be sure there are no vacuum leaks, though since it's an electrical test, at this point, I'd test it.
1 - KOEO, measure voltage at the IAC connector removed.
It should be~ 10.5 to 12.5 v
This indicates it's getting proper signal from the PCM.
2 - If ok, check its condition. Measure resistance across the terminals with the connector off. It should be 6.0 to 13.0 v. If not, then replace it as per Haynes manual.
3 - Measure for short to IAC body by measuring from a terminal to its metal exterior. It should be 10,000 ohms or greater. If not, the internal circuit is grounding out against the case and it needs to be replaced, as per Haynes.
4 - Last, remove the IAC valve and check for and clean with a soft rag carbon buildup esp. on the pintle, a pin. Hmm, the description says the valve moves in and out from its seat. That's not like a throttle valve that rotates on a pintle. That doesn't make sense. Just clean it, if it's dirty. They say to clean the valve housing too.

It says only a qualified shop/dealer with a special EEC-V scan tool to pull the working parameters from the EEC while it is runing can adjust the IAC.

My money's on the IAC at least for now.

[searcherrr]

Well, thanks again man. What you describe is what I'm used to seeing in other vehicles... in that the RPMs are very steady and don't move at all or if so its just a hair for a split second when IAC is supposed to do its stuff.

I still would like at least 1 or 2 other people to watch the video and see if theirs does what mine does at idle. I should make a video of the RPMs moving as I turn the wheel too.

EDIT: The only thing that has kept me from looking into the IAC is because it was replaced less than 5k miles ago, though it was from NAPA.

[tripletdaddy]

You would think it's ok, but just to rule it out won't take more than 10 minutes. Off hand, I wonder if there is a way to determine if it's actually moving as it should. You could back probe it with your voltmeter to see if the voltage changes as it should under changing loads at idle. I guess you could pull it out and check to see if it moves freely. Not sure off the top of my head how to safely apply voltage to it to watch it move without going to the book.