1st car: Paint questions

[vaindioux]

Hi

I am not new to modeling but I am new to car modeling, there are a few steps which I am not familiar with and have questions.
I have read a bunch of faqs and searched the forums too.

1) Where do I buy a polishing kit? Is the wax to shine at the end in the kit too? Can I buy one at autozone or wall-mart or is it strictly a hobby store item? I will use sprayed lacquers for the car body. (You can tell I am clueless about cars.)

2) Are acrylic hobby paints good enough for other parts of the car (Not the body), I mean Tamiya or Testors type paints? Do I purchase these paints flat or gloss ? (I am experienced airbrushing acrylics. I don't want to use enamels don't mention them.)

3) Do you paint the inside of the car body ? Do you use the same color inside as outside?

4) Do you use a respirator when spraying lacquers? Can I spray in my garage with door open instead?

My first car model is Aoshima "Mazda Savannah RX-7" (Kit #038208)

That's it for now

Thanks a lot

Patrick

[MPWR]

1- Skip the polishing kit for now. It is really not necessary, especially for your first few builds. It is a fantastic way to add complication and frustration.

Concentrate on putting the paint on in light, even coats. A dozen mist coats always beats 2-3 heavy 'wet' coats. Use the hot water trick to warm the paint cans before spraying- it makes a terrific difference. (The spray lacquers you're using are Tamiya, I hope?)

Also, do not try to apply the body paint all at once. Don't even try to put it on in the same day. Give it a mist coat or two, and then wait an hour before the next mistcoat or two. Patience and technique will take you far. It just takes some investment in time. Bodies cannot be painted quickly (at least not well! ).

2- Acrylics are fantastic for the rest of the car. I wouldn't recommend anything else.

3- Usually no. It won't be visible, and therefore isn't worth the effort or paint.

4- Absolutely. You must wear a respirator when spraypainting. Open the garage door, also.

Sounds like a good kit to start on.

Welcome to the hobby!

[vaindioux]

Originally Posted by MPWR

Concentrate on putting the paint on in light, even coats. A dozen mist coats always beats 2-3 heavy 'wet' coats. Use the hot water trick to warm the paint cans before spraying- it makes a terrific difference. (The spray lacquers you're using are Tamiya, I hope?)

MPWR

I appreciate the answers, I will skip the polishing kit for now.
I haven't purchased spray lacquers yet. I was going to shop around for different brands mentioned here, hobby specially made or automotive.
Shall I absolutely get Tamiya?

Thanks again

Patrick

[TRBJ]

maybe, in your case.. or most of the other, including me.. its easy to find, use, etc.. but then its actually a matter of personal choice.. whether you want to use tamiya spray, airbrush paint, or even your real car's paint (please dont try for now coz ur lastic will MELT down to the very bottom..)

[MidMazar]

Tamiya laquers are the best way to go, really user friendly. Don't forget that with metallics you need a clear coat after the base coat.

The only thing with acrylics in my opinion is that you have to airbrush them on, they're not user friendly when brush painting.

[Dingo1]

Make sure you apply auto primer before applying any type auto paint otherwise the paint will craze the plastic and your model will be a wrecked shell sitting in a wrecking yard dio.

Dingo1

[vaindioux]

Originally Posted by Dingo1

Make sure you apply auto primer before applying any type auto paint otherwise the paint will craze the plastic and your model will be a wrecked shell sitting in a wrecking yard dio.

Dingo1

Well

It looks as if I am steering clear of automotive lacquers. I don't understand why some people recommend them here if they are going to melt my model no matter how much I prime it?
I will stick to hobby lacquers like Tamiya or Testors, whatever I can find first.

Thanks

Patrick

[MPWR]

I strongly recommend Tamiya TS sprays. It is a truly superior product. With some care and patience, a beginner really can manage very satisfactory (even spectacular) results. It may cost a bit more by the once than other options, but it really is worth the difference. (Stay away from Testors enamels for body painting.)

Tamiya lacquers (like all body paint) work best over a good base of primer. Tamiya primer is great for this. Primer should be applied in several coats, sanded smooth with fine abrasive in between coats. The last layer of primer before the paint should be perfect, sanded out to a shine. Get the primer right, and the paint is easy. Get the primer wrong, and it is impossible to correct with paint. Again it's not hard- just take some time and patience. (It usually takes me a week or more to primer/paint/clearcoat a body). Use 1500-2000 grit sandpaper (available at auto parts stores, exactly for this purpose) for sanding the primer.

Auto lacquers can be used on plastic- they just require a good solid base of primer. Tamiya primer can be used for this.

[TRBJ]

aand id like to add to MPWR's comment on sanding, i usually paint 4-5 coats of clear, and dry sanding the very little bumps of whatever imperfections u can find on every single coat with 3000 grit sand paper then polish it.. manage to perfect your skill on those and the result is gonna be absolutely orgasmic~

[vaindioux]

Originally Posted by TRBJ

the result is gonna be absolutely orgasmic~

Now you are talking!

Thanks for the answer

Patrick

[Scefen]

Hi all,

I'm also new to modelling. Thought I could post my questions in this thread as well!

1. When I have removed the mold lines from the body with sandpaper, do I also sand the rest of the body, even if there aren't any molding lines left? (Before I prime the body this is)

2. I saw that beginners should not use compound or wax, but I really want a good shine to my body. If I sand the last coat of primer to a shine, will the Tamiya TS-8 for example be shiny in itself, or does it make much difference if I clear-coat it?

3. In case of clear-coating, is the TS-79 a good choice?


Thanks very much for helping,
Fred

[MPWR]

Welcome to AF.

1- Yes, sand the whole body. This gives the primer some 'tooth' to adhere to, and helps you find and fix any other molding flaws on the body. After sanding, scrub the body with dishsoap and an old toothbrush and let dry, and you're ready for primer.

2- There's no reason not to use polishing compound and wax. They will nicely improve the look of the paint. I would recommend both.

If the primer is smooth and shiny and the paint is applied correctly, it certainly will have a gloss. Compound and wax will improve this, and clearcoating is not necessary.

Three reasons to clearcoat are:
If you will be aggressively rubbing out the finish (using micromesh or similar), do this on clearcoat, not the actual paint.

Some paints such as Zero Paint or Tamiya TS metallics require a clearcoat for gloss. But TS solid colors are glossy out of the can, and do not require overcoating.

Clearcoating can be used over decals, to seal and protect them. However clearcoat must be applied properly and with great care over decals. Lacquer clears will quickly destroy decals if it is applied improperly.

3- TS-13 will give a better shine. However it must be applied very slowly, in many light mist coats. Applied thick and wet, it will destroy decals and paint under it.

[Scefen]

Thanks foor the answers, cleared things up quite a bit!

So basically if I get the primer and sanding right, the compound and wax could be enough to give the TS basic colour a nice shine without clearcoating.

[MPWR]

Yes. If your using metallic color, it needs to be clearcoated before you polish and wax it, but solid colors work fine and can look great without clearcoat.

[vaindioux]

Originally Posted by Scefen

Hi all,

I'm also new to modelling. Thought I could post my questions in this thread as well!

Scefen

Good questions you ask. It seems those questions never end, for me anyway.

You seem to be a newbie also posting, in the future try to start your own thread as this is called "Thread hijacking" and some people will get real mad at you. Not mad at all here, just figured I would let you know.

Patrick