Revell 1/24 Ferrari F2007 (Massa - Bahrain)

[stormer_GS]

Hi! I'm back with another racer after my recent project R32 Axia. I just have to have a Ferrari in my collection and it'd also be nice if I had a formula one...
That's why I bought a Ferrari F2007. It includes USA, UK and Brasil? (if I'm not wrong) versions with Cartograf decals. I bought "Museum Collection"
sponsor decals to go with it.


Because of the decals I decided to make two versions of racers:
- Massa's Bahrain ride with Ferrari Red color


- Räikkönen's Brazil winning ride with almost all the body mods which were made throughout the 2007 season - metallic candy red color


I'll let the images talk for me.


Revell:


Original (Ferrari museum):





Thinning of plastics is necessary:


The cockpit's bottom was modified because of the bad molds:






I removed the molded seatbelts:


Mockup with underbody:


I'll have to redesign the muffler tips because the molded pipes are horrible:


Tamiya X-10:


Does anyone know what is the meaning of the tire marking (red/green)?

[stormer_GS]

Two days ago I started playing with Cartograf's carbon. Carbon's dimensions are very tight and
do not aloow any mistakes. Position of the carbon is the thing you have to be very careful with because if
you don't fit it right, the wheel stabilizers will have no carbon at top view. I used Microset and Microsol to do the job:


The last picture shows wheel fitting which is quite good - remember it's Revell! The only problem
is with the body/underbody fitting because it's a little "tense". That's why I had to use masking tape. :-?
Guess I'll have to take a closer look at the construction of my racer.

[sam01contact]

Excellent job!

[AustinMartin]

Awesome!

[AAlmeida]

Originally Posted by stormer_GS

Does anyone know what is the meaning of the tire marking (red/green)?

The letter R should be rear, the arrow -> is where the tire will roll and the number 5 should be the tire set number, but it's totally guess... I don't know.

[ales]

(Pure speculation) "5" could also be the car number and red and green could indicate the tyre compounds (even if that would seem somewhat redundant with the white grove and all).

Great progress, by the way.

[stevenoble]

Very nice start, looking really good so far.When I built this kit a while ago I cut off the molded exhaust tips and replaced them with some brass tubing which worked quite nicely.

[Captain Mark]

Looking good so far, keep us posted.

[stormer_GS]

Thanks for comments! They really keep me motivated.

Because of the low temperature (-14°C/57.2°F) I can't paint anything. Luckily I found another Revell tipycal
mistake - thick rim spokes. So I started thinning with scalpel and finally managed to damage one of the rim spoke,
on the last rim. I used the rear rims for training because they're covered with the carbon plate for cooling of the brakes.

The original rim is on the right:


Damaged rim is located on the left bottom position:


This is how the real rims look like:



About the tyres...

My theory is that they use red markings for training and green for race. I agree with AAlmeida that
the number is for tire sets:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eor6U...eature=related

I guess I should mark tyres like this L<-5 / R -> 5 for racing purpose and L<-5 / R -> 5 for training purpose.

[stormer_GS]

Hello guys!
I'm back with some progress and modifications. I've managed to do the following mods and painting in
three days - I hope that excuse is good enough for the mistakes I've made.

Modifications:

- front wing



- rear wing needed some "downgrading" for the Bahrain race:


- thinned down the rear diffuser


- white primer


- red Tamiya (X-7)


- decals (Musem Collection + Revell's Cartograf)


Now I have to wait for the decals to set down and clean the remaining MicroSet before clearcoating.
Does anybody have any idea, how to do that? I was thinking about mild soapwater...

[mrawl]

Wow, it looks awesome with the decals. I dunno if soapy water will do what you want, but make sure you really ***really*** rinse it off long and well - because I guarantee it will leave soapy residue in corners and cracks if you're not careful. Inspect it carefully after it has dried.

[Tibi Keke]

Yes, it works quite well with soapy warm water. Then clean'it well with clean water and put the model in a dust free place to dry for a few days.

[stormer_GS]

Thanks for conformation Tibi Keke and to you to mrawl for such a quick response! I'll try it tomorrow just before I'll put the front wings into
Tamiya's red. I can hardly wait to see it in my gallery.

[sam01contact]

Now I have to wait for the decals to set down and clean the remaining MicroSet before clearcoating.
Does anybody have any idea, how to do that? I was thinking about mild soapwater...

You can clean the body with Windex, and then use wax to bring out the shine and protect the decals. It works for me.

[stormer_GS]

Thanks for the tip sam01contact. Because I don't have any window cleaner at home ATM ,
I gave the mild soapwater method a try. It didn't do a thing so I just cleaned (degrased)
the surface and lef it as it was before.

Today's work was mainly about the PE seatbelts and preparing the body for clearcoat. I had to paint
the black surfaces with the Tamiya's semi-gloss black around exhaust pipes and do some minor corrections
under the wings on the body.

This is how mockup of the cockpit looked like before the clearcoat:


...simple seatbelts:


Front wing with 10 decals (both sides):


Other pics...


I aslo spotted a mistake in Revell's decal instructions for placing the two Bridgestone wing decals: