97 3.8L N/A Starts and Stalls Clogged Cat? Fuel Issue?

brianr8 · #1 12-29-2008, 01:35 PM

97 Grand Prix GT 3.8L N/A
I have seen multiple posts about this issue however mine seems a little different. The car originally just died on me, got towed and started right up the next day. Basically doing what everyone else says runs fine for maybe a couple mins then once it gets warms dies. Now it was starting up but acted like it wasnt getting fuel. When I would give it gas it would clear up and then start backfiring then die. If I let off the gas it would just idle low for maybe a sec if that and then just die. Now it will not start at all. I pulled up a P0135 Code(Heater Circuit Bank1 Sensor1) also P0441 (Evap System Incorrect/ No Purge Flow) Those codes however may have possibly been in the system for awhile now so not sure if they will even help this issue. Possible clogged cat? Fuel Problem? please help thanks in advance....

brianr8 · #2 12-29-2008, 01:41 PM

Also when it actually would start and halfway run, I did what alot of people tried unplugging the MAF but that didnt change a thing.

BNaylor · #3 12-30-2008, 08:40 AM

Run a fuel pressure test at the front fuel rail and see if in specs. There is a Schrader valve by the fuel pressure regulator where you can connect the gauge.

Also, how old is the fuel filter?

On the DTCs just reset with an odb-ii code reader/scanner and see if they return.

brianr8 · #4 12-30-2008, 10:13 AM

It was right at 60lbs, I also disconnected the exhaust to see if it was the cat but it wasn't. It still wont start at all now just turns over.

brianr8 · #5 12-30-2008, 10:16 AM

The fuel filter does need to be changed, however I know i am getting fuel to the rail so that doesnt explain why it is not starting. How can I check to see if I am getting spark since I its just me and I cant crank the car as well as be under the hood. Thanks for helping me with this.

BNaylor · #6 12-30-2008, 10:28 AM

Just remove one of the front bank spark plugs like from cylinder #1 and check for spark. Reconnect the ignition to wire to the plug pulled. Make sure the plug electrode discharges to a good ground like some part of the engine block. Observe while starting engine but you'll need a second person to help out. Note: Do not hold the plug and ignition lead in your hands. High voltage and it bites!

brianr8 · #7 12-30-2008, 10:56 AM

i dont have anyone to help me right now i will have to wait and check for spark. I just dont understand how it was atleast starting before and now it wont.

brianr8 · #8 12-30-2008, 11:02 AM

I had a spare ICM laying around I threw that in but still wont start. Say when I do check later and I am getting spark and fuel where does that leave me? Then again that spare ICM maybe no good and can very well be the problem.

richtazz · #9 12-30-2008, 01:15 PM

Do you have an old style inductive timing light? You can hook one up to one of the plug wires and if the leads are long enough, squeeze the trigger as you turn the car over. If the leads aren't long enough to reach inside the car, use a rubber band wrapped around the trigger to hold it down and lay it on top of the engine pointed toward the windshield. It will only flash if spark is present.

brianr8 · #10 12-30-2008, 05:14 PM

The car has spark and the fuel pressure with koeo is 45psi when cranking it 55psi so good fuel and spark. Where do I go from here?

brianr8 · #11 12-30-2008, 05:53 PM

just checked the injection pulse and the light is lighting up very bright so good pulse, also checked each cylinder for fire and every coil pack is sending out fire

BNaylor · #12 12-30-2008, 05:55 PM

Possible other ignition control circuits like the crank position sensor or camshaft position sensor. It is possible to get a good spark but the timing is off or the 18X pulses which eventually feeds the camshaft position sensor and ICM module are bad. The camshaft position sensor controls the fuel injectors.

When it did start and run did you notice any other indications during the stall like a Trac Off light or did the tach dip or drop off before the stall was noticed?

Also, check the IGN1 -UH fuse which feeds 12 volts to the 02 sensor heater circuit and evaporative emissions system sensors. The fuse is located at the main engine compartment fuse box.

Note: Injector pulse width modulation is good when you see the test light or noid light go low and switch high and not stay on bright continually.

brianr8 · #13 12-31-2008, 04:56 PM

I know what you mean about the injector pulse. It is good the light would only light up when it was suppose to. I didnt notice the rpm gauge when it was running which sucks. I know that would lead to a possible bad Crank Sensor. I'm just mind blown that I have fuel and spark yet no start. I would figure it would miss like hell rather then not start at all if it was something with weak spark. How do I check the MAF sensor and Crank Sensor or should I look toward something else? Thanks for the help

brianr8 · #14 12-31-2008, 05:31 PM

should i get a reading on my scanner for the maf sensor while the key is on? i read that if i have good injection pulse that would eliminate the thought of a bad crank sensor, sound right? btw all the fuses are good under the hood.

BNaylor · #15 01-01-2009, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brianr8

should i get a reading on my scanner for the maf sensor while the key is on?

No. The engine has to be running. What brand scanner are you using?

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