1998 Windstar tran flush

[jwebb37]

Years back I had a 96 Windstar with 120,000 miles on it. I took it in for a trans flush and 2 days later the trans went out. I was told that the old fluid was probably what was keeping it going. Well now I have recently been given a 1998 and noticed it bumps a little when changing gears, but I am afraid to take it in to get the trans serviced. Do you think when I serviced the old one, that is what cause the trans to go out? TIA

[northern piper]

this is a topic debated about every 4 months. Some strongly suggest that you should never work on a trans once it's gone past a certain number of miles as, like you say, "the fluid was keeping it together". I subscribe to the "change the trans fluid when the manual suggests" and have never run into the problem. So, I guess my best advice to you is, if you van has had routine maintenance at suggested change intervals than I'd be sticking to that routine. If the trans fluid hasn't been changed recently (or ever) than you may just continue to drive and hope for the best. I'd certainly check the level and top up as needed. I think the real risk (as I've heard it anyway) is that if a trans has a lot of miles on it and then gets flushed and filled that some loose particle will remain and eventually jamb within the trans causing catastrophic failure.

HTH!

Piper

[Andrew1941]

I have heard people say that if the tranny fluid is brown or dark colour, leave it alone, ut if it is still red, then go ahead and change it out. I changed mine to the recommended Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and has been fine (about 6 or more months ago).

[tripletdaddy]

If it's dark, you'll stay in park.
If it's brown, it'll break down.
If it's black, it's heading for the rack.
If it's red, you're ahead.

Ok, I'm gonna take another crack at this since my crapy computer ate the first try. It was long, so I'm pretty annoyed.

Leaving in old, worn out trans fluid seems counter-intuitive. These transverse trans are a lot more sensitive than the old style trans, so they will give problems if you don't change the fluid often enough or do it after it has never or not for a long time been done. I believe the bands, valves, and solenoids will eventually have problems due to a varnish lie buildup. Based on what I have read here, the power flush done in a shop has a reputation of causing problems with the trans that did not get regular maintenance, consequently, debris that was stuck in the trans gets loose but not all of it comes out, thus causing problems. There also is the issue of even doing a fluid change on one of these unmaintained trans where the new fluid will clean and dislodge debris and cause problems. However, it is also the consensus of many that if you are having problems with your trans to begin with, a fluid and filter change are the normal first course of action. It also seems to be the consensus on this and other forums, if you are going to change the fluid, the best way is to use the trans to perform the fluid exchange and flush. This is done by removing the high pressure line between the trans and the radiator at or near the radiator and pumping out the old fluid with the trans/engine running. (As long as you don't run the trans any longer than necessary, this won't hurt the trans). Then drop the pan to get the rest of the fluid out of there and change the filter, something that often is skipped by the power flushers. Then new fluid is put in and the trans run until the last remaining old fluid that comes out of the disconnected line looks new. Some here also recommend using a trans treatment prior to the fluid change to help disolve and remove any build up when the fluid is removed. And if I got something wrong or out of wack, help away. That's my
, and then some.