Going after the BUMP isuue..

[garync1]

BUMP ISSUE RESOLVED!!! READ ENDING POSTS FOR CONCLUSION.. IT WAS THE SPARK PLUGS!!!


Ok new trans installed runs better now but still have the bump...
Thanks Andrew1941 for bringing me the issue with the spark plugs and wires.

Gee told me sooner I could have saved 3 grand. LOL.. NO!! Just kidding van I feel is more reliable now with new trans....


OK Coil pack went out a while back and replaced with GPsoranson Advanced auto brand coil pack... I also changed the spark plugs with Autolight dp spark plugs and the wires with autolight premium spark plug wires. I think is something more like premium professional wires.. Any way I think there supposed to be the best in the Auto light series...

My question is.. Does anyone run these wires plugs and or coil pack.. Have any issues.. If I were to point to anything I feel it would be the bobo brand coil pack.. But if anyone had used the plugs and wires with no issues than please feel free to suggest something.. I don't mind replacing one or all of these to help with the issue.. So the bump maybe now a misfire of some sort.


So far I replaced the IMRC which I thought might help but did not.. Of course does not seem to lag as much when you gun it.. Also pulled the front plugs out today and they seem fine.. Thanks,Gary

[12Ounce]

I've forgotten, what model year and engine?

[garync1]

2001 3.8

[12Ounce]

Some history: Total miles? Has the upper intake been opened and cleaned ... new style bolts, etc? Has any attention been given to the MAF sensor? Other engine or tranny sensors? Has the camshaft sensor synchronizer been lubricated or replaced?

[garync1]

Yes all TSB updates New upper intake clam shell also ..108,000 miles egr ports were clean during the isolator bolts and port seal replacement.. MAS sensor has been cleaned. camshaft sensors is original...

[wiswind]

I have the same brands plugs, wires, and coil pack as you mention.
They have been doing just fine for me.

[Ed_Strong]

Originally Posted by wiswind

I have the same brands plugs, wires, and coil pack as you mention.
They have been doing just fine for me.

Same here for me too... same GPSorenson Coil from AdvanceAuto, AutoLite Double Platinum Plugs and AutoLite Wire Set (black box) can't remember for sure if the premium wires come on the black box tho!

Did this 10 months ago while chasing a wild goose with a rought idle that turned out to be a crankcase pulley gone bad (linky)! I'm suire everyone remembers that one...LOL

Anyway everything is working good and solid todate. I would suggest for goodness sake to pull the Coil and inspect the casing for fractures in the plastic that could be leaking power to ground. Also on my van when I pulled the original Coil (which is still in good working order) there was a lot of rust around the metal frame that mates with the Coil brace support in the engine and I believe this could cause trouble as the Coil needs to be well grounded, altho mine didn't fail, it doesn't hurt to check.

[garync1]

Thanks for the info.. I think just for a cheap way to rule out something Is to go back through the ignition system.. Now I did break my coil pack clip but it was only the tab part that locks it.. So I taped it to keep it from pulling loose.. I really don't think that would be an issue.. Just seems to me I did not have this issue until I did my pan drop on the trans and cleaned the sludge from the bottom pan and replaced filter.. It may have been a few months before or after I changed the plugs and wires.. But now seeing the trans is new and all sensors are new on the trans, that rules out that part.. I would assume if the cam sensor is going bad after a while it would throw a code.???

[garync1]

Originally Posted by garync1

Thanks for the info.. I think just for a cheap way to rule out something Is to go back through the ignition system.. Now I did break my coil pack clip but it was only the tab part that locks it.. So I taped it to keep it from pulling loose.. I really don't think that would be an issue.. Just seems to me I did not have this issue until I did my pan drop on the trans and cleaned the sludge from the bottom pan and replaced filter.. It may have been a few months before or after I changed the plugs and wires.. But now seeing the trans is new and all sensors are new on the trans, that rules out that part.. I would assume if the cam sensor is going bad after a while it would throw a code.???

Well Ed I see you did not get a code.. my eyes are burning.. That was a long thread..LOL. I will check the cam sensors. Or at least the ones I can see.. I did put a new belt on a while back and looked at one of them.. It looked ok.

[garync1]

Well its 68 degrees here today and between rain showers I have managed to change the front spark plugs.. I did notice my gap was not set right. one was 60 the other was 40 something. I lost my fold up wire gauge gap set. Went and got the disk type wire gauge because that's all I could find.. Don' ever use those solid disk gauges. They are not worth nothing.. used my wire gauge and compared it to my disk type gauge and it was way off.. Will see how or if it helped anything.. Need to get the back plugs done.. All in all those spark plugs are not old and looked fine but replaced anyway.

[garync1]

Well after front spark plugs were replaced. Noticed I still have the bump but not as bad.. Try to replace back ones tomorrow..

[12Ounce]

Originally Posted by garync1

.... Just seems to me I did not have this issue until I did my pan drop on the trans and cleaned the sludge from the bottom pan and replaced filter.. . I would assume if the cam sensor is going bad after a while it would throw a code.???

Any chance the pan area now has a vacuum leak? Does that pan gasket require some RTV daubs? ... I can't remember.

Did you notice the condition of the crankshaft sensor and wiring? I doubt if the camshaft sensor is a problem since there is no code ... but have read of synchro's getting dry and "grabbing", sometimes causing erroneous signals ... that's why I drop some oil in occasionally.

Someone else mentioned the EGR system, in particular the DPFE sensor and signal hoses ... a very good area to look into I also think.

[garync1]

I do know the Crankshaft sensor is fine and wiring looks good.. I checked that out when changing the belt.. I have a new trans in it now. Just got it last week. Ford reman unit and all trans sensors are new.. So I guess i ruled that out.. I do a lot of things at one time or in a few weeks of each other or when I fine some new issue that comes up.. So I can't remember what put me to do the pan drop.. If it was the trans fluid leaking when hot or the bump..So I am trying to figure out if maybe I did not get the bump tell after my coil replacement.. It just tough to trace back.. Also costly to replace everything over again.. With no codes even harder.. I will look into the others you have mentioned. Thanks for the reply.. Gary

[Andrew1941]

It was me who mentioned to check the DPFE; did you? The bad DPFE threw a code for me, but maybe your van is just about ready to throw the code? Easy enough to test it.

Also, check the rear plugs when they come out to look for any cracks in the ceramic. May not be an issue, but you never know. I think a crack would be a continuous rough idle, but maybe not?

Also, if you lift the hood at night in the dark (needs to be really dark), start th engine and look for any arcing around the coil pack and wires. If you see any blue arcs, thats your problem. You may also want to look around the engine for any arcs between other fram connections etc. Bad grounds can be a real nuissance because they can be intermitent and who the hell knows where the bad conenction is! Blue arcs tend to give it away.

[garync1]

Originally Posted by Andrew1941

It was me who mentioned to check the DPFE; did you? The bad DPFE threw a code for me, but maybe your van is just about ready to throw the code? Easy enough to test it.

Also, check the rear plugs when they come out to look for any cracks in the ceramic. May not be an issue, but you never know. I think a crack would be a continuous rough idle, but maybe not?

Also, if you lift the hood at night in the dark (needs to be really dark), start th engine and look for any arcing around the coil pack and wires. If you see any blue arcs, thats your problem. You may also want to look around the engine for any arcs between other fram connections etc. Bad grounds can be a real nuissance because they can be intermitent and who the hell knows where the bad conenction is! Blue arcs tend to give it away.

Funny you mentioned check for arcs... I did that last night when I was out working on the van and cleaning the yard.. I started the van and looked for things like that... I even went a step further and started grabing the wires.. Some cars can run with lose of voltage from the plug wires and some can't. So I starting to feel around the coil area and the wires to see if i got a jolt. I was thinking I would get a jump shock from the coil so I started very slowly in on it until I was able to touch it and got nothing.. Kinda lead me to believe if the coil is not strong. I thought for sure I get a little bite from the connections to the spark plugs.. Heck in the past on other cars that had HEI ignitions I hated to set the timing on them. Go and turn the distributor and get popped.. usually meant I had to change the cap.. I ll look at the other stuff.. Getting ready to leave tomorrow for Florida. Taking my Kids to Disney for Christmas.. Thanks,Gary