Corolla 2001 CE Air Conditioned - Not working properly

[kaimanson]

Hi guys, one of my coworker is having a problem with his 2001 Corolla. Sometimes the ac compressor is working when suddenly it just stop working (even though the AC Light is on). It can be working for a few days in a row but usually when it stop working, he need to wait for at least a day or a few hours until It start working again. could be his compressor possesed? lol, any easy fix for it?...thank you in advance.

[rockwood84]

could be the relay getting hot shutting the a/c off then cooling off lets it work .

[quick69gto]

Have the A/C system checked with pressure gauges. It either has too much refrigerant (high pressures) or not enough refrigerant (low pressures).
Also check to see if the condenser/radiator fan kicks on when the compressor engages. If the fans don't turn on with the compressor, it will cause high pressures in the A/C system prompting it to shut off until the pressures come down.
By the way, if it's cold outside, say 60F or below, the A/C system is not going to stay on for very long. I made that statement because it was -18F this morning where I'm at (Colorado).

Good luck!

[kaimanson]

Thanks Guys! I may check the relay, and the fans. Everything is possible, both line was checked by a friend of mine, and the freon is ok, + not leaks. So I may considerer the relay or a fan. I"m located in miami FL, so I guess cold weather is not an issue for me here lol...+80 lol......-18F...too much lol

I'll keep you guys informed about it. Once again thanks!
have a nice holiday!

[rockwood84]

yeah at -18 you wouldn't even have to put a window down to have a/c .just pray the heater is working .........

[jdmccright]

Could also be a faulty A/C clutch coil. But usually they either work or don't.

Typically if pressures rise too high, there's either too much refrigerant or there's a blockage in the line (usually at the orifice tube/expansion valve). And if there is a blockage, it's usually caused by ice buildup or debris from the compressor or dessicant from the accumulator/drier. Since you usually have to wait some time for it to start working again, my money's on ice formation...you wait, it melts, it works again until it freezes up again.

Getting rid of ice/water means evacuating the system, holding it under a good vacuum to evaporate all the water and pump it out, then recharging. The drier will also need to be replaced since that's its job...removing water from the refrigerant. Hope this helps!

[brcidd]

Just to add- I've seen several where the clutch air gap is too wide- from wear- the coil can pull the clutch in cold- but after it warms up- it can't pull the clutch in anymore- if gap is more than .040-.050" then- I'd reset it. Next time it happens to be off- You can test by just bumping the clutch with a blunt tool- while it should be on- be careful...

[kaimanson]

Hi Guys! thanks for all your advices! Update..update...yesterday I had the time to see the ac not working. This is what I saw:

1. The AC Compressor was running properly.
2. The AC light was on (green).
3. The AC was set to cold.
4. Both AC Relay were ok.
5. Not weird sound was coming out of the AC Compressor.

But not cold air was coming out of the vents, the line under the hood that is always cold while the ac is working was not cold at all. Today in the morning was working again.

Thank you in advance!
have a nice day

[jdmccright]

Then I'm guessing you need to check the system pressure with a manifold gauge set. You can buy a can of refrigerant with the hose and gauge on it, but I'd recommend you have a auto tech check this. They know the proper system charge, oil to use, etc, and know how to diagnose problems since they have EYES and EARS on it versus us who are reading your words.

Hook up the can/gauge to the LOW side (smaller cap of the two) with the engine off. If it is low, then you probably just need a recharge. If it is zero (doubtful since you say it does run), you have a larger leak that needs to be found and repaired. Move the can away from moving engine parts. Then start the engine, turn on the A/C to high recirc, and check the gauge again. The system will typically cycle off as the low-side pressure gets too low then back on when it rises again. But the pressure may just be high enough to stay on but not put out any cold air. Place a thermometer in one of the center dash vents (sometimes they come with the refrigerant...if not, they're cheap and invaluable for this!) Add refrigerant as instructed on the can in increments and watch the temperature...DO NOT OVERCHARGE. Anyone have the specs on how much refrigerant these Corollas take? A good, charged system should put out about 40-45° air.

Good luck & let us know how it goes!

[kaimanson]

Originally Posted by jdmccright

Then I'm guessing you need to check the system pressure with a manifold gauge set. You can buy a can of refrigerant with the hose and gauge on it, but I'd recommend you have a auto tech check this. They know the proper system charge, oil to use, etc, and know how to diagnose problems since they have EYES and EARS on it versus us who are reading your words.

Hook up the can/gauge to the LOW side (smaller cap of the two) with the engine off. If it is low, then you probably just need a recharge. If it is zero (doubtful since you say it does run), you have a larger leak that needs to be found and repaired. Move the can away from moving engine parts. Then start the engine, turn on the A/C to high recirc, and check the gauge again. The system will typically cycle off as the low-side pressure gets too low then back on when it rises again. But the pressure may just be high enough to stay on but not put out any cold air. Place a thermometer in one of the center dash vents (sometimes they come with the refrigerant...if not, they're cheap and invaluable for this!) Add refrigerant as instructed on the can in increments and watch the temperature...DO NOT OVERCHARGE. Anyone have the specs on how much refrigerant these Corollas take? A good, charged system should put out about 40-45° air.

Good luck & let us know how it goes!

Thanks for the quick response, I have doubts about a leak, because when it works, it gets cold as a freezer. The system was checked with gauges and everything looks to be working property (coolan level and pressure), the pressure only went down when the system stoped to produce cold air. I can only thing about the AC Compressor. Because it is not pumping cold air into the line, everything points out to the AC Compressor (my guess). Another issue named by another guy was water on the systen that may be clogging the system, but I'm not sure.

Once again, thanks a lot
have a nice day!

[jdmccright]

If there is ice forming in the evaporator expansion valve, there should be a higher-than-normal low-side pressure. And if there's ice, that means moisture is getting in somehow.

Does the A/C compressor run all the time, even when it stops making cold air? If so, then none of the high- or low-pressure switches are being tripped...another indicator of ice.

Ice/moisture removal involves evacuating the system, replacing the receiver/drier, pumping down and holding to remove the water, and then recharging. Good luck!