Alternator

[94HeavyChevy]

I believe i need a new alternator. i have a 140 amp right now in my 94 5.7 and i am going to get it tested before buying one. i can get a reman from autozone for 130 (lifetime warranty) but i came across a place who said they can build me a 180 or even 200 amp. i have a 2,000 watt stereo in the car as well. would this beefy alternator be better or will the 140 do just fine? i feel like these cars run through alternators quickly

[bhw33191]

Originally Posted by 94HeavyChevy

I believe i need a new alternator. i have a 140 amp right now in my 94 5.7 and i am going to get it tested before buying one. i can get a reman from autozone for 130 (lifetime warranty) but i came across a place who said they can build me a 180 or even 200 amp. i have a 2,000 watt stereo in the car as well. would this beefy alternator be better or will the 140 do just fine? i feel like these cars run through alternators quickly

I think if you went for the 180 or 200 you'd get more life out of that alt so its probably better not to go back to the 140. Btw did the 140 do well? I have a 1000w system and currently am using my stock alt but i was gunna get the 140

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by 94HeavyChevy

I believe i need a new alternator. i have a 140 amp right now in my 94 5.7 and i am going to get it tested before buying one. i can get a reman from autozone for 130 (lifetime warranty) but i came across a place who said they can build me a 180 or even 200 amp. i have a 2,000 watt stereo in the car as well. would this beefy alternator be better or will the 140 do just fine? i feel like these cars run through alternators quickly

with the 2000watt amp you should consider the higher amperage alternators..

the 140amp is good with a 1000watt amp and the use of a one farad capacitor...

you need the amperage to properly drive the 2000watts..
If this is rms power output you will need the 200amp..

[94HeavyChevy]

when my system is up i get alot of battery bounce and dimming lights with the 140 amp...i guess im going to try the 200 amp cuz i have gone through 3 alternators already

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by 94HeavyChevy

when my system is up i get alot of battery bounce and dimming lights with the 140 amp...i guess im going to try the 200 amp cuz i have gone through 3 alternators already

I am very familiar with vehicle owners that insist on high powered noise makers ,,,,the capacitor 1 or 2 farads is also recommended as this will smooth out the current surges that cause the alternator to get damaged..

these amps have killed many an alternator...

the other suggestion is to install a battery in the trunk /amp area and this then will also smooth out the current surges...you must properly fuse this and be very carefull in the wire/run....install...run the wire outside vehicle along the passenger side frame rail and properly support and use a grommet for penitration into the trunk/car body..this should be tested before install to see if it does the job...it should..

[94HeavyChevy]

so i got my alternator and battery tested at the place that told me they could make me a 200 amp alternator and my alternator checked out fine but they told me my battery was causing the problem. I took this as good news because i had just gotten my battery a few months back and it was still under warrantee. I took my battery out and back to the store and it tested out fine. This was my biggest concern and now i do not know where to start. what can i check now?

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by 94HeavyChevy

so i got my alternator and battery tested at the place that told me they could make me a 200 amp alternator and my alternator checked out fine but they told me my battery was causing the problem. I took this as good news because i had just gotten my battery a few months back and it was still under warrantee. I took my battery out and back to the store and it tested out fine. This was my biggest concern and now i do not know where to start. what can i check now?

Talk to the guys who set up car electrical systems to support 10kW linear amplifiers they use on their CB radios on the "Super Bowl". There's a device called a 'Motor Maul' that has 3 or 4 batteries wired in series/parallel and can be used to support the draw of those linear amps, without needing a larger alternator. Or, those who hook up 4 and more alternators to their cars for the same purpose.

You don't need the series/parallel thing (you don't need to run your stereo amp at 14-18 volts), but something like this can help you.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by 94HeavyChevy

so i got my alternator and battery tested at the place that told me they could make me a 200 amp alternator and my alternator checked out fine but they told me my battery was causing the problem. I took this as good news because i had just gotten my battery a few months back and it was still under warrantee. I took my battery out and back to the store and it tested out fine. This was my biggest concern and now i do not know where to start. what can i check now?

I have re-read all this posting...so exactly why do you believe the alternator is bad ? whats the problem?

[94HeavyChevy]

battery is very weakly charged...anything i do in the car the battery drains emediately but then charges back again... for example- i turn my blinker on and the battery bounces with every blink or if i roll the window up the battery drains alot more than it should...it just is alot weaker than it ever has been.

[94HeavyChevy]

i believe there is something staying on after i turn the car off...possible a bad ground or a short somewhere taking power from the battery because i drove my car about a week ago and i went to start it and it barely started...turned over very slow but started. i have noticed that when cold the voltmeter is high but weak and then if i drive the car around and then start it up when warm the battery is significantly lower on the voltmeter...it stays dead center. i still think it might be the alternator. any thoughts?

[Blt2Lst]

Originally Posted by 94HeavyChevy

i believe there is something staying on after i turn the car off...possible a bad ground or a short somewhere taking power from the battery because i drove my car about a week ago and i went to start it and it barely started...turned over very slow but started. i have noticed that when cold the voltmeter is high but weak and then if i drive the car around and then start it up when warm the battery is significantly lower on the voltmeter...it stays dead center. i still think it might be the alternator. any thoughts?

A quick way to determine if you have current draw.
With car off, turn off everything, unplug under hood light.
Disconnect neg terminal of battery.
Touch battery cable to battery terminal lightly.
If a spark is observed while doing this, you have a current draw.
If you do have a current draw, try unplugging fuses one at a time and repeating above procedure until no spark is observed.
Then you have the offending circuit.
Once you determine which circuit is causing the short, you can now track down the problem.
Hope this helps.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by 94HeavyChevy

i believe there is something staying on after i turn the car off...possible a bad ground or a short somewhere taking power from the battery because i drove my car about a week ago and i went to start it and it barely started...turned over very slow but started. i have noticed that when cold the voltmeter is high but weak and then if i drive the car around and then start it up when warm the battery is significantly lower on the voltmeter...it stays dead center. i still think it might be the alternator. any thoughts?

your battery is bad....if the connections are good and you are getting 14volts to the battery for charging then bring car to a auto part center that can load test this BATTERY....the buy a 800amp battery ..that way when you use car every 2 weeks it will still have power to start..

when temp is around 10deg f you get 50% battery power if your lucky...

[96capricemgr]

http://innovativewiring.com/

Upgrading the wiring should be the first step.

[94HeavyChevy]

the alternator guy told me it was my battery so i exchanged it and got a brand new one and same problem still...also when i brought in my battery they tested it and it was fine but still gave me a brand new optima red top...i will check for current draw basen on Blt2Lst's instructions...

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by 94HeavyChevy

the alternator guy told me it was my battery so i exchanged it and got a brand new one and same problem still...also when i brought in my battery they tested it and it was fine but still gave me a brand new optima red top...i will check for current draw basen on Blt2Lst's instructions...

I would look at all the aftermarket non oem equiptment first...

also as mentioned when large current draw is required over oem spec you must up grade the wiring...this means very large guage copper wire,with the connections soldered to the lugs and covered with a heat shrink insulator...

the grounds must also be secure and using the battery ground point is best ,,to reduce resistance in the frame/body...