timing belt question

[pbrizzle86]

okay so i went form the d16 block with a y8 head to a d15 block with the y8 head. my timing belt keeps coming loose. do you use a diffrent timing belt with this combo that the d16? i can get it to stay tight ill go drive it around for a while, come back thinking its fixed, and then ill come back a while later and start it and it will start hard and the T belt will be loose slappin on the motor mount. the timing belt dosent have more than 10,000 on it if even close to that. the tensioner and spring are about a year old also, any ideas, if there isnt another belt to use i think this one may have streched. and the belt im using is the one for the d16y8. thanks Paul

[Christ]

You're probably not tightening the tensioner enough, but there is a chance that the water pump on your 1.5 block has less teeth than the one on the 1.6 block you were using. Simple solution, swap the water pump, and see if that works for you.

If not, try using a D15B2 belt, they're pretty much universal, even for the blocks with larger water pumps. (on SOHC's)

[Ones&zeros]

i would do some research on wich is the appropriate belt to use w/ that setup, also double check the tensioner. Some repair manuals show u the proper way to adjust the tensioner.

[Christ]

I'll say this as simply as possible:

The only difference in the timing setup for each D-series SOHC engine, not including the D17, is the water pump. If you're using a 1.5 liter block, you have less deck height, therefore the timing gears are closer together (the need for a cam gear begins here), so you use the 1.5 liter timing belt, regardless of what pump you're using.

If you try to get cute with playing w/ the tensioner, and using the larger water pump, and a 1.6 liter belt, you're sure to break something you don't want to replace. Just stick with what works... no engineering needed.

Anyone going to back me up on this?

[Ones&zeros]

so just swap to the d15b2 belt and he's cool?

[Christ]

Yep... The heads are all the same size, and the upper timing belt pulleys (Cam gears) are all the same as well... the only differences are deck height and the water pump. The tensioner has enough adjustment in it to even let the D15B2 belt slacken while it's being installed, then it can be tightened properly.

[FrodoGT]

Well actually the y7/y8 cam gears are different, but not by the number of teeth. The keyway is offset by ~4 deg, so you wouldn't want to try using that on your setup.. just throwing that out there.

[pbrizzle86]

um the water pumps for a d15 and d16 are the exact same so thats not it. when i did the mini me swap on my sohc zc block everybody said use the timing belt from the head you are useing so i figured the same applied to the same set up on a d15. so the d15 tiing belt will fit. what does it have less teeth in it?

honda water pump part number for d15 and d16 #19206p01004

edit...... did some research and the d15b2 t belt has 106 teeth

and the d16 has 107 so disregard my question i guess

i guess i will try the smaller belt and see if that works.

[FrodoGT]

Yeah the deck height is shorter on a d15, and the timing belt is shorter.

[Christ]

It may have been the ZC/D16A1 water pump I was thinking about... one of them has slightly more or less teeth... can't remember.

[Christ]

Besides, I just grab a D15B2 belt for everything, FTMP. The parts store always has that belt... b/c no one uses them. Gatorback is a great aftermarket brand, FWIW.

By the way, use a D15B (Vtec) crank if you can get one, that way, you get the D15's stroke, and the stronger 1.6L rods and pistons can be used.

And what guy here doesn't want to have a stronger rod? lol. SORRY.

Anyway, if you use the D15B (Vtec) crank, you can use 88-89 'teg rods and pistons (PM7/P29) The rods are slightly lighter and a little stronger than other 1.6L rods, and the pistons get you 12:1 ish compression... more on a Y8 head. The quench area in the Y8 head helps to make artificial detonation resistance though, so don't worry about it too much. Keep your tune good though.

[pbrizzle86]

yeah im just using the d15 block for the moment. ive got plans for work on the zc block but just havent had the money latly. it didnt get damaged when the cylinder melted down at least nothing a fresh bore cant fix. im going to stay NA on the civic. if i want boost i may see what i can do with the Rex as the ew is pretty low compression and has all the head work done to compliment the added air.

but its getting cold and shitty here in minnesota, i got to school at 6 am and i let the rex warm up for about 10 min before i get in it and it still doesn't get "warm" in the cab for at least 5 miles of driving. so im avidly looking for another winter car but then i have 2 cars to store in the winter time. the 1st gen rex just doesn't have the redicoulus heat that the 4th gen civic does.

[Christ]

Check/flush the cooling system... chances are, there is a valve in the heater core's line... it might be plugged.

[pbrizzle86]

yeah ive changed the thermost and flushed the system and heater core and actually had th replace the heater copntrol valve as it was stuck closed. the system is full and there is no air in the lines. the heat is hot but the vent system is really crappy in the 1st gens you dont get much choices as to where they point. only side to side not up and down and they just happen to be at the level where my eyes are so thats nice. plus the leather dosent help when its 20 degrees.

[Christ]

I never had an issue w/ the heat in my 1st gen CR-X except when the blower didn't work.. also, I had full adjustability of the vents... I could move them up and down and side to side... the whole vent moved up and down, and only the fins moved to the sides..