How to remove carbon build-up in the intake manifold and restore driveability

[1999montana]

Hello All,

I wanted to share this with those who are truly concerned with fuel mileage and the ability to clean the intake manifold, cylinders, EGR and intake valves effectively.

A chemical designed to do carbon cleaning was developed in Canada back in the 50’s by a chemist who was commissioned by GM to find a more cost effective way to de-carbonize the Cadillac V-8 of the day. The engine would carbon up frequently and the only way to remove the carbon was to pull the top half of the engine off and clean it manually. Whether as a warranty repair or customer pay, the cost was prohibitive.

The original formula is still in use today. A number of companies in Canada and the US generally manufacture it for professional use. There are also a number of companies that manufacture an aerosol Combustion Chamber Cleaning chemical that can be applied with a minimum of effort to any running engine by a do-it-yourselfer.

A company in Oakville, Ontario called Shrader Canada manufacturers this chemical as an aerosol can in 6, 12 and 16 oz sizes. It comes with a graduated adapter that allows the can to be connected to any vacuum hose easily accessible on the engine.

Shrader has recently entered into an arrangement with a US based company to release this product in the US and globally as well. The chemical aerosol can be used in conjunction with a throttle plate cleaner and a heavy duty fuel injector cleaner for a two or three step process.

3M also manufactures a three step product that does basically the same thing, but at a substantial cost differential.

http://www.findthebestdeals.com/buy....randsplace.com

Run-Rite makes a similar product too, but it is generally thought to be a professional only application.

http://www.run-rite.com/industry/fuel_runrite.html

I have used a carbon cleaning product manufactured for Canadian Tire and PartSource called ‘Tune-up in a can’ that is applied without any tools through the PCV valve vacuum hose directly into the sealed engine.

If you buy the aerosol at PartSource it comes with a bottle of heavy duty fuel injector cleaner. To round out the process you can get a can of throttle plate cleaner and clean the varnish, carbon and gunk off the inside of the throttle plate as well.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/pr...=1224711949175

The whole concept of administering carbon cutting chemicals has evolved over the years. Professionals have relied on a liquid, metered into the engine either from a canister, or a can with a straw that sucks the liquid in as the engine runs off idle (usually above 1500 RPM). These same professionals also apply a high pressure fuel / chemical cocktail to the injectors through the fuel log isolating the fuel system on the vehicle while the engine runs on this mixture to clean the injectors.

This liquid carbon chemical has been around for a number of years and comes from a number of manufacturers, but for many backyard types this is not a do-it-yourself project.

There are a number of inherent problems with liquid chemicals being introduced into a sealed engine, the most dangerous being a condition called Hydro-Lock which can stall and make restarting an engine difficult, if not impossible. Plus, once the engine is hydro-locked, the potential to do damage to internal moving parts is significant.

Once the liquid is in the engine intake, it must atomize before it can begin to soften and remove the carbon build-up. The liquid version often trips the O2 sensor and other engine management sensors causing the engine check light to come on and not go off for several service cycles.

The aerosol version today solves these problems and makes the application virtually fool proof.

Either method is still safe for sensors running the engine, but the aerosol version is easier to use, is less invasive, and does not unnecessarily saturate the engine with chemical.

This little story helps to address a post or two regarding EGR valve not functioning, or engine check light being on.

If done properly, this can help eliminate one very common problem in most newer engines and restore fuel mileage and driveability that was present when new.