1999 Blazer 4.3 vortec engine removal

[ricnor]

I have a 99 Blazer 4x4 with a totally ceased engine so I can't undo the torque converter bolts. I have undone just about all I can, taken the front panel off for ease of access etc.
The issue I am facing is that to remove the engine I need to get the top bellhousing bolts undone and pull the whole engine forward with the torque converter still attached, however it would appear that I only have about 2" of forward movement before the sump will hit the front diff/ driveshaft. What is the easiest way of removing the engine?
It looks like the diff/driveshaft can be undone and dropped downwards, will this give me enough room to pull the engine forward so that the torque converter will clear the bellhousing? and what is the best way to get to the two upper most bolts on the bellhousing.
I have ordered a workshop manual but it won't arrive over here for somewhile so any help would be appreciated.

[Oldsmobile Doctor]

I did a 2.8 in an older S-10 one time. I had to unbolt the body from the frame and jack it up. This may or may not help with a newer one but it's a thought.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by ricnor

I have a 99 Blazer 4x4 with a totally ceased engine so I can't undo the torque converter bolts. I have undone just about all I can, taken the front panel off for ease of access etc.
The issue I am facing is that to remove the engine I need to get the top bellhousing bolts undone and pull the whole engine forward with the torque converter still attached, however it would appear that I only have about 2" of forward movement before the sump will hit the front diff/ driveshaft. What is the easiest way of removing the engine?
It looks like the diff/driveshaft can be undone and dropped downwards, will this give me enough room to pull the engine forward so that the torque converter will clear the bellhousing? and what is the best way to get to the two upper most bolts on the bellhousing.
I have ordered a workshop manual but it won't arrive over here for somewhile so any help would be appreciated.

I would drop the complete front rear end out of it.

Unbolt the engine to transmission and pull engine with converter on it.
Just pull it straight out of transmission until everything is uncoupled .
About 8 to 10 in. or a little more.
Set engine out.
Then unbolt converter to engine after it is out and install the converter back into transmission rotate converter when going back and make sure it goes all of the way back and catches the front pump ear.

Good Luck

[evo-00]

The best way to get the top 2 bell housing bolts is to take out the distributor and oil press switch. You'll need a 14mm gearwrench then to get the bolts out. Hope you have small hands. There are also 2 ground straps back there and the fuel lines bolt to the back of the head (all 14mm).

[blazes9395]

Remove the starter on the engine, and you have access to the convertor bolts. Also if you plan on reusing the transmission and convertor, don't let the eninge weight rest on the convertor, you run a high risk of damage to the main convertor bearing on the pump. As for the top bellhousing bolts, get some wobble extensions and a unversal joint connector(forget the name of them) and you'll get to them.

[jdrobbins]

Just did this a month ago on a 1997, if you are still having problems let me know and I will try to help you out, just let me know where you are at.

It was the hardest engine I have ever done, NOT FUN!

[evo-00]

Originally Posted by blazes9395

Remove the starter on the engine, and you have access to the convertor bolts. Also if you plan on reusing the transmission and convertor, don't let the eninge weight rest on the convertor, you run a high risk of damage to the main convertor bearing on the pump. As for the top bellhousing bolts, get some wobble extensions and a unversal joint connector(forget the name of them) and you'll get to them.

The top 2 bell housing bolts you have to get from under the hood and also he can't take the torque converter off because the motor is ceased up.

[HUNTERPAUL]

I have raised the body up on the chassy many times and supported it with a 4x4 block under the front 4 bolts. However if you can remove the oil pan you cal find the main cap or rod cap that has locked the engine down and remove cap bolts and turn engine enough to remove the converter bolts. the front pump on the transmission can be damaged easily, so be careful.

[blazes9395]

Originally Posted by evo-00

The top 2 bell housing bolts you have to get from under the hood and also he can't take the torque converter off because the motor is ceased up.

I am sorry, read it and still my brain did not register...seized. I was thinking dead - ceased. I have done a few of these and have always got the top two bellhousing bolts from underneath the truck, never from under the hood, its possible, but you'll be there for a long time doing it that way. As for the seized engine, hunterpaul is the method I use, only if there is access. To pull the pan, you have to remove the front differential on these. On the other hand, you could remove the trans(back it out) and leave the convertor bolted on. Personally, I'd pull the diff and go that way, as it would be a lot lighter and easier to manuver the engine out, plus you minimize the chance of damaging the transmission convertor bearing.

[ricnor]

I know it has been a very long time since I started this but because of various things I have only just got round to starting on the project again.
Before I go any further I would like to say thank you for all the suggestions and also sorry for my poor spelling.

Anyway, I have managed to get the old engine out by gradually dismantling things, Inlet manifold and heads off. I also managed to free the engine up by use of some very large hammers and leavers so eventually I did get to the torque converter bolts and I haven't broken anything so there's a good start.

I will try to take the other engine out of the spare vehicle this weekend but how you managed to get to those two top bolts is still a mystery to me, I have loads of small sockets and universal adaptors plus long extensions to get to them from below but nothing would fit on the head of the bolts due to them being so close to the firewall/bulkhead. I may even cut down a socket to see if that will get on there, as with the heads in place I doubt I will be able to get to them from under the hood, it was hard enough with the heads removed.

Again thanks for the help.