94 XLE Camry....won't start....fuel in cylinders

[DAVID1MZ-FE]

HI
I got home one night and the car was runnig GREAT!! Very nice Chicago weather, not cold at all, had Fuel on the Tank, all it's levels up to date, nice Camry Running, the next morning I wanted to turn it on, it wouldn't at all, it would just not start, the Engine turns and it had a very good Battery power where all it did, was turn crank, but it wouldn't turn on. Not even cough a little you know.
Everything has been checked, fuel pump working where it was even removed from the tank and cheked, it's working, cheked fuel is running thrue and there's pressure after the Filter, cheked the Fuel Pressure regulator replaced it and still nothing.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator as it was fludding the cilinders, we changed also the sparkplugs as they where all wet, nothing "nada" still won't turn on. We cheked spark on the plugs, removing every coil and testing them grounding them, good spark, test all three of them in the front and one on the back (1,3).
All the wring has ben cheked fuses etc.
I cheked the connection the plugs to the injectors with a light tester cranking the engine, all work.
Removed the air intake, sprayed some fuel starter fluid and STILL won't turn on.
I had a friend check the compression ont he engine, he did it on cilinder number 4, he said it was ok, he actually told me to remove all the sparkplugs again, clean them all and dry them, crank the engine a few times to expell all the fuel sitting in the cilinders (which it did) and to let it sit overnight for the rest of the fuel to evaporate with out the plugs and the sprkplug wholes open, so I did, next morning I put everything back together, got battery recharged at autozone, all connected, and it just coughed like trying to turn on, two times and after same result NOTHING!!
I was tired and took it to a mechanic, the guy was all iffy about taking the car because it was already touched, (dissasembled) from some parts, which is what we have been trying to do, after like 4hrs, he called me back and said it was because 3 cilinders where out of compression "3"???
I asked him how can all three gone dead at the same time (1.3.5), he said he didn't knew why but he wanted to open the engine and check it out basically charge me over 500usd just to check it, I have the car back home.
What can i do? Can it be that the head gaskets are blown? Will it only be that the cilinder head is messed up?
HELP!!! it's driving me crazy!! What can it be? What should I do any suggestions?
David

[somick]

It sounds like your timing belt broke.

Sam

[DAVID1MZ-FE]

I forgot to mention, timing belt is on and working! it turns when cranking... I figured that if it would've been broken it would've come out of how many times it has been cranked?
Help!

[Brian R.]

Possibly, your cam gear on the 1,3,5 side is off a couple of teeth on the timing belt. Check the timing marks.

[RIP]

Seems odd all three front cylinders (2,4,6) have compression and all three rear cylinders (1,3,5) have none. Generally, if the gasket went you loose compression on one or two cylinders. I'm guessing broken camshaft, sprocket, something in the valve train. Might pop the rear valve cover off and watch it while you crank.

FYI - A quick check for a broken timing belt? Pull the distributor cap off and watch the rotor as you crank. If it doesn't turn the belt is broken. Another check. Listen to it crank. If there's no compression the starter will turn the engine much faster. You have good compression on 3 cylinders. Probably not the belt but, it's an easy check. When you say the belt is on and working are you saying you had your eyes on it?

[DAVID1MZ-FE]

Thank You all for your reply.

to start, I did have some one turn the key on while I had already opened the timeing belt cover open fron the fron and watched it turn while the engine rotates, working and confirmed.

This v6 engine has a Coil per sparkplug, which only has an igniter that sends the signal to each coil, no distributor in the 1mz-fe, so can't figure out how can I do a tune up on the car like them old distributor cap type engines. Is there any other way to time the engine with out having to remove half of the engine to set the timing marks and replace the timing belt? Does anyone know the right tools how can I ask for them at Autozone? I read once on a Chiltons book that connecting a lamp to the green wire on Plug nnum 4 will work... but then what? does it happen automatically? how can it be adjusted?

I will check them timing marks again this weekend, cold weather is on our way so I really need to get my TOY fired up and running like before..

Any other ideas people?, much appreciated!

[jdmccright]

I'd recheck that all the cams are at TDC along with the crankshaft. I'd also check the camshaft position sensors to see they are working correctly. After that I'd refer to the sticky at the top of the forum on the procedure for checking your ignition timing.

I will note that timing belts can stretch over time, especially if they are getting oily from a leaking camshaft, oil pump, or crankshaft seal. If you've been hearing a slight plastic knocking sound when you start up cold, that's the timing belt vibrating against the cover. The oil, being slippery can also cause a cam to jump a tooth or two.

One other thing I'd throw out there is the possibility of water in the fuel. Though you say you have fuel in there, these cooler nights can help lead to condensation. It's "out of the box", and illogically simple, but it's another avenue.

[DAVID1MZ-FE]

My question here also is, can it be because the timing belt is lose, or jumped two or more dents and made the car be out of time, to be that there's no compression on one side of the engine?
Another question is, if I had to change the head cylinder, (left) do I need to change both of them? is it necessary?
How can I test the camshaft and knock Sensors?, I know this one has two, on on the right head cylinder and another by the Pulley in fron of the engine.
I really don't have a scanner to make sure what is and not working on it.
Before this happened, for a good two weekes before, i heard a Squeeking noise coming from where the timing belt are is, yet I was never able to identify it if it was my alternator or anyother belt....

ThankYou everyone for your advise.

[jdmccright]

A faulty camshaft sensor will trigger trouble code P0340, a faulty crankshaft sensor P0335, and an out-of-sync camshaft to crankshaft P0336. If your CEL is not lit, then my guess would be they are functioning. BUT there is only one camshaft position sensor located on the front bank (left - cyls 2,4,6) on the driver's side. If the rear bank (right - cyls 1,3,5) has skipped it's timing marks, no code will be set.

Yes, if the timing is off enough then the valves will be open when they're supposed to be closed, leading to no compression.

No, if one head is to be replaced (which I doubt needs to be done), the other does not NEED to, but typically should be done in pairs since both should ideally have the same treatment (clearance checks, cleaning, decarbonizing, etc.).

Autozone or similar parts stores have scanners you can borrow...cheap ones can even be bought...to help you diagnose the problem.

Not sure if the squeaking could be related...if you remember how it sounded (only at startup, constant with vehicle speed or engine rpm, etc.) that might help. But I'm guessing at this point it is separate.

[meanielinguine]

Hey David, I have a question di dyou ever figure out the problem??

Please give me a heads up, I just bought a 94' Camry LE 5 days ago and it ran PERFECT, for 2 whole days. I drove it to the store, came back out and it wouldn't run. The same stuff, It will turn over but it wont start. It's like its not getting any gas, it kinda does a hicup where it wants it, but doesnt pull thru. I did the old school check on mine with a screwdriver putting it in the spark plug wire and touching metal and the engine is getting spark, so not the timing belt.

So Im not sure if you got a second opinion on your car or, please let me know what you ever found out about it!

if it is easire for you to reply to my personal email...teamyeazel@yahoo

THANK YOU

[jdmccright]

Don't mean to berge in, but the same thing happened to me a few years ago. Went to the store, bought stuff, came out, car started, then DIED. Turns out it was the ignition coil. So have that tested for primary and secondary coil resistance. Any spark doesn't necessarily mean a good spark. While you've got them off, clean the terminals on the cap and rotor too...they get encrusted with oxidation after a while. Hope this helps!

[Brian R.]

Even if the coil resistance is within spec, it may still be the coil if everything else checks out ok.

[01charger]

let me know if you get it fixed please, i'm having identical issues

[01charger]

i will also let you now if I get it fixed, the race is on