pre-oiling small block

[jveik]

ok, i just tried to pre-oil my smallblock chevy and i can tell it is pumping oil, since the drill motor bogged down quite quickly after starting to turn the pump, but i cannot get any oil to make its way up to the rocker arms thru the pushrods. I am using an 3/8 plug in drill and am suspecting that maybe i just have to borrow someone's 1/2 inch drill or something. I called a tech guy at milodon and he said he has heard of that problem and when the engine fires up it should be able to get oil up there. i cant currently look at the guage in the cab because i am working by myself and got rained out at the job site today, so everyone i know is at work... anyone else know if this is a problem with some motors? I'm running a mellings high volume pump if that makes a difference

any insights greatly appreciated,

thanks

[jveik]

i got a helper to watch my pressure guage and after about 10 seconds, the guage will be over 45 pounds of oil pressure almost 60 with just the 3/8 drill motor. any ideas as to why this wont translate to up top?

[maxwedge]

Try turning the engine over about 90 degrees, then another 90 degreees.

[silicon212]

I wouldn't worry too much about the upper part oiling with the preoiler. As long as you used assembly lube on the pushrods and rockers, it will be OK. It takes about 2 minutes (in my experience) for a new engine to start oiling the rocker arms, once it is started. Preoiling is to ensure the crank is lubricated once you start the engine.

[777stickman]

What kind of shaft are you using to turn the oil pump? If you're using just a straight shaft it won't block off the cam oil galleries. Lots of after marketeers make a good oil primer tool that will block off these galleries just like when the distributer is installed.

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by 777stickman

What kind of shaft are you using to turn the oil pump? If you're using just a straight shaft it won't block off the cam oil galleries. Lots of after marketeers make a good oil primer tool that will block off these galleries just like when the distributer is installed.

What I did was take an old HEI distributor, and cut the centrifugal advance off of it and chuck it right into a drill. Works great!

You bring up a great point though, I hadn't thought about that - assumed he was running an actual preoiler or something like what I have.

[jveik]

i called up charleys speed and machine here in omaha nebraska and they told me that the drivers side might be the only that would recieve oil and if i dont block off the distributor hole completely, even the drivers side wont recieve any oil. therefore i am gonna put a little oil on all the rocker arms and put the valve covers on and assume it will work. my guage reads almost 60 pounds with just the drill motor and the cheapo primer tool that doesnt block the distributor hole, so i hope it will all be alright

[luxeryvic]

question ---> the 305 in my 77monte has been sitting a while without oil, should i still preoil it, like everything is original just new cam and lifers, i know i have to use break in lube and special oil but should i still pre-oil it?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by luxeryvic

question ---> the 305 in my 77monte has been sitting a while without oil, should i still preoil it, like everything is original just new cam and lifers, i know i have to use break in lube and special oil but should i still pre-oil it?

this is not how I would store an engine...no oil in it is not good...unless you have a garage like Leno and this is temp/humidity controlled...


before cranking place 1oz of marvel mystrey oil in each cylinder then with plugs on loose crank by hand to lube the rings...if not done this can cause the piston rings to break..this proceedure along with engine fogging on storage is used in the inboard boat engines as I am familiar with..


as far as break in oil that is not my area...of knowledge

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by j cAT

this is not how I would store an engine...no oil in it is not good...unless you have a garage like Leno and this is temp/humidity controlled...


before cranking place 1oz of marvel mystrey oil in each cylinder then with plugs on loose crank by hand to lube the rings...if not done this can cause the piston rings to break..this proceedure along with engine fogging on storage is used in the inboard boat engines as I am familiar with..


as far as break in oil that is not my area...of knowledge

One ounce in each cylinder? What? Are you trying to help him hydrolock his engine? A teaspoon, perhaps but an ounce is way overkill. One ounce = two tablespoons. That's six teaspoons!

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by silicon212

One ounce in each cylinder? What? Are you trying to help him hydrolock his engine? A teaspoon, perhaps but an ounce is way overkill. One ounce = two tablespoons. That's six teaspoons!

This is what I stated [before cranking place 1oz of marvel mystrey oil in each cylinder then WITH PLUGS ON LOOSE crank by hand, to lube the rings]..

this is the method that many inboard boaters use to store and to prep engine for a resart after storage...this works and the very low viscosity of this lube will get down onto the rings...


take note [CRANK BY HAND].....

[jveik]

well, it must have been ok, cause i fired up the motor yesterday and it runs like a raped ape. I ran it at 2000 rpm for a while to let the cam break in correctly. its got a healthy lope when it idles